Ray's 2025 Camino
France - Spain - Portugal
Part 2
Camino Portugués Central, from Porto
230 photos in this story.
Returning home from my Moto Alaska trip, my next plan was to hike the Camino Portugués from Lisbon, a distance of 613 km (381 miles). However, a few days before my departure, Jenny need my help. so I had to postpone.
By the time I was free to go, the fall hiking season in Portugal was drawing to a close. So I had to start my hike in Porto, Portugal, rather than Lisbon - a distance to Santiago de Compostela of only 240 km (150 miles). Still, starting in Porto is the most popular option - by far. So I wasn't missing out on much (or so I rationalized).
So I flew to Porto to begin my trek.
Porto, Portugal
Oct 21, 2025
The plane landed in Porto, and I took a taxi to the downtown area. But nearly there, the cab got caught in a traffic jam. Eventually the driver suggested that I walk the final ten minutes to the Sé Cathedral and my hostel, and gave me instructions on how to find them. I had studied the general area on google maps, so I was confident to proceed on foot.
I began this trek with a new Credencial del Peregrino, or pilgrim's passport; and got my first stamp at the nearby Cathedral Museum.
The hostel has bunks with privacy curtains, kitchen and common area.
Stairs leading from the Hostel up to the Cathedral.
Day 1
Oct 22, 2025
Porto to Vilarinho.php
26.4 km (16.4 mi)
I set out before first light. The streets and sidewalks where wet, not with rain, so much, but with dew.
I couldn't find the route, and my apps needed uploading. So I was searching for someplace that had wifi. Finally near the City Hall I found free wifi, and
here beneath an underpass, in a burst of rain, I was able to download the needed data. And with that done, I found the route on the map. I was a 12 minute walk away from it.
It was a good reminder to have the apps already loaded with the needed data, and to test them in town the day before setting out - to make sure that everything worked.
Porto is a big city, and I spent most of the day walking out of it. And yet, despite being in the city, the walking was still pleasant.
These vines caught my eye.
I'm wearing shoes that have thick, cushioning soles to facilitate walking on cobblestones.
I reached Vilarinho and planned to stay in the Albergue Casa da Laura, but they were full; so I backtracked ten minutes to the
Acogida Casa Família Vidal. From this I learned that - despite the lateness of the season, it's best to make reservations - at least a day ahead.
Hand washing my clothes.
I used my rain jacket a fair amount today, so I have hung it to dry alongside my washing.
Day 2
Oct 23, 2025
Vilarinho to Barcelinhos
28.0 km (17.4 mi)
I was curious if this tree is machine trimmed, way out in the boonies.
I tried to get this photo of a man and woman tending their goats. But I think the image, taken as a whole, is interesting anyway.
On this short section of muddy road I met two hunters with their ten little hunting dogs. The men were returning to their truck, and they put the little dogs, one by one, in a large cage in the back of the truck. I learned later that this is a typical scenario in Portugal - hunting for rabbits with small dogs - the Podengo - specially bred for the sport.
Found in a small park was this brightly colored Rooster of Barcelos. Inspired by legend, its a Portuguese symbol of good luck, faith, and hope.
I reached Barcelinhos and stopped in this small store to buy some dinner.
Dinner in cans. Beans, corn, and tuna.
Day 3
Oct 24, 2025
Barcelinhos to Seara
28.4 km (17.7 mi)
Medieval Bridge of Barcelos over the Rio Cavado.
Casa da Azenha. The old water wheel powered millstones used for grinding grain.
I visited this café for a coffee con leche and a snack.
I'm always glad to find these churches open. Depending on the time of day, most of them have been closed.
I really enjoyed walking though Barcelos. The people were friendly and the city was clean and interesting.
The goat happened to be close to the fence, so I had a better look than usual.
The dog wandered from someone's yard into the path. It was similar to the small Podengo dogs used for hunting.
The Camino de Santiago routes are delineated by yellow arrows. This arrow directs Pilgrims to climb these stairs leading up to the church.
Multi-use Camino.
Medieval bridge rocks worn by centuries of traffic - mainly foot, hoof, and wagon wheel.
Water fountain for Pilgrims. Those that run continually are not potable. Those with on/off spigots are piped from the city water supply, and the water is safe to drink.
Walking the Camino takes a fair bit of sleuthing. Late in the day, I had grown extremely hungry, when I came to sign describing a café one or two tenths km up the road. So I followed the road to a junction, but without finding the café. I followed another road back to the Camino, and saw this view (in this photo). And I thought "maybe that's the café down there. So walked down there, and found two gents sitting at outside tables. I went in through the doors and found this (next photo).
This dish was listed on the menu as "eggs on potato salad." Portugal is full of surprises. (The following day I talked with other pilgrims, who had not found the café. I think I was more hungry and therefore a more motivated sleuther.)
I'm enjoying this day so much!
Old wall
Interesting Medieval wall.
* Painted yellow arrow to show we're on route.
* Eucalyptus trees originally from Australia, now populating much of Portugal.
* Pilgrims have placed small rocks on the wall. We find this practice practically everywhere on the Caminos. In many cases placing a rock merely states "I was here." But in many other cases, the stone was carried for some distance as a symbol of some burden, some hate, some sin, or some sadness for a loved one departing - and placed here as a symbol of letting go.
I've seen many cats on this trip, and they were all aloof, keeping to themselves. This cat came out of someone's yard and tried to climb my leg - as if it wanted to go with me. As though it wanted me to pick it up, place it on my shoulder, and join me on my quest. I gently placed its front paws back down on the ground. Again it tried to climb my leg. "No" I scolded, and placed its paws back down. I walked off but the cat stuck with me, trotting by my side. I stopped, looked at it, and said "NO!" And with that, it reluctantly returned to the person's yard. The cat, in general, has a cunning skill to being adopted. Yup. It got me in the feels, alright. It was love at first sight. But I had to carry on without it.
The Camino is coming back down out of the mountains.
Fallen chestnuts are a common sight in Portugal during the fall season.
Once again, the object was carried for some distance, and placed here as a symbol of remembrance or just letting go. I'm reminded that to some pilgrims, the the Camino is a sacred walk of purification - as intended so many years ago. (Never handle any of these objects.)
Jenny is helping with my accommodation, and said "When you get to the statue of the peregrino, turn sharp left." And sure enough, I found the hostel.
I reached the hostel but the door was locked. A sign said to call this number. My phone was set for data only, so I couldn't make local calls. So I knocked a few times, and was about to give up when a lady opened the door. she was nice as could be, and I was the only visitor that night.
The
Albergue/Hostel "O Caminheiro" came with a private room, separate bathroom and kitchen. But no food - so my day wasn't finished yet. I had to walk into town, and back.
For the record, I stopped in at the O Pressinhas café but pastries was all they seemed to have. Outside I met an Asian woman who said she was walking 22 miles today. She was taking a break, and had a few more miles to go.
Next, I called in at a dental clinic (I later learned) to ask for directions to the grocery store. The two receptionist couldn't understand English, so one of them went into the back room get another employee who did speak my language. A very pretty woman came out, and we talked for 10 minutes. She said the grocery store was a few more minutes further on, but they didn't have much.
I finally reached the grocery store, and they had everything I needed. Most importantly, they sold canned beans.
The previous spring I hiked half of the Camino Francés, and experienced problems with digestion, mainly constipation. My body was unable to assimilate the Spanish bread of the type that makes up bocadillos, for sale in just about every café and bar along the way. So during this hike, I avoided bocadillos in flavor of canned beans, which I found were good for my regularity.
Eggs for sale.
On my way back to the hostel.
The hostel had a washer and drier, and by the time I was ready to wash my clothes, the day had turned into night. There was no light there, and I couldn't hardly see the dial, let alone understand the Spanish. So I used the current settings, and the wash took only about five minuets. I had not seen laundry done that quickly. I wish my washing machine at home had that feature.
One last note: the hostel had a nice shower, but the door was stuck. I pulled and pulled, and finally it popped open. But when taking the shower, I was very careful not to close the door all the way.
Day 4
Oct 25, 2025
Seara to Rubiaes
24.3 km (15.1 mi)
Leaving the hostel in the early morning.
Oranges
I met Darah D. the previous day, near the end of her 22 mile day. Today I met her at this
coffee stop.
Steep section near the top.
Ian from Taiwan, currently taking a break from his studies in Glasgow, UK. Studying to be a cloud computing programmer. We have been seeing each other at least once every day.
Day 5
Oct 26, 2025
Rubiaes to Tui
19.3 km (12.0 mi)
The route was climbing uphill, and when I reached the high point, I came to this curious sight: a little hamlet. I had never seen a town perched on top of a mountain before. My guess was they built the
Church in a stand-out location, and then built the village around it.
Another trailer full of small hunting dogs. They are used to hunt rabbits, which if left uncontrolled would decimate the field crops and vegetable gardens. At least that's my theory.
The route going steeply down the other side.
A small dog protecting the chickens.
I had been seeing the occasional signs for a food truck all day, and finally reached it.
Center: Veranika running the food truck, selling mainly homemade belarusian pirozhkis. Left, I subsequently walked with this interesting woman for the next mile, and learned a great deal. This was her fifth Camino, and she had walked the Camino Portugués Costal route twice before - both times in the unlikely month of February. Her husband was a retired general now working at the NATO headquarters in Brussels.
The Valença road-rail Bridge over the Minho River, separating Portugal from Spain.
Midway across the river I cross into Spain.
I had decided to remain in tui for the rest of the day, so after looking around I settled on this restaurant for dinner.
Alboio The prices seemed reasonable and the menu was in English.
The hostel
Albergue Ideas Peregrinas had not opened yet, but there was a young woman sitting on a bench out front, and she moved her backpack off the bench and invited me to sit down with her. She introduced herself as Helena (huh-LAY-nuh) from Taiwan, and while waiting for the hostel to open, we chatted for an hour.
I had booked a bunk in the Albergue but Helena was in a private room, so I didn't see her again that evening.
My room had five beds. I walked in and found four women. I asked whether I had entered a women's dorm by mistake. "No" they confirmed. "You're all right."
I know this must seem out of place for an eighty year old, but one of them was drop dead gorgeous. And she had hiked the PCT, so we had a lot to talk about. I didn't give her my name, and regrettably didn't ask for hers.
I took a shower, did my laundry, and went down to the lobby-café-gear shop for a hot chocolate, to bring an end to a very nice day.
Souvenirs for sale
The Helena bench, later that evening.
Day 6
Oct 27, 2025
Tui to Cesantes
35.9 km (22.3 mi)
Well before first light I climbed out of my top bunk, placed all my belongings in my backpack, and exited the room. There was only one toilet for the entire floor of 25 people. And it was occupied. So I waited in the adjacent laundry room for 15 minutes. Then the thought occurred that maybe the toilet room was empty. I carefully tried the door, and sure enough, the room was empty.
I set off in the dark, and followed the yellow arrows on narrow streets that went this way and that. and it was still dark when I reached the edge of town.
Man playing his bagpipes in the forest. "Buen Camino!" he greeted, between breaths - without interrupting his playing.
During my strolls though Portugal and Spain I've seen a many species of plants indigenous to the US. Someone had these Datil Yuccas growing in their yard. They grow wild in our yard in New Mexico.
Another medieval bridge chronicling the life story of the Camino.
Helena
I stepped out of a café after having a quick coffee, and found Helena walking directly across the street from me. This was her first day of her first Camino, so she wasn't quite tuned-in to the yellow arrows, which were on my side of the street. She crossed the street, and started walking with me, but soon the route took a turn, and she continued on. Like everyone else I've met on the Camino Portugués, she was a lone spirit, not interested in walking with anyone else. But she kept going the wrong way, time again again, so eventually decided it best to stick with me, as a matter of expediency.
Hórreos, found in Spain and Portugal, built on pillars to keep stored grain and food safe from moisture and pests.
Eventually Helena decided that she liked walking with me, and we had fun sharing the rest of the day together.
As I wrote to my brother, "The close-up selfies mean nothing, other than the person and I enjoyed each other's company that day."
This goose honked at me, so I went over to see what it was doing.
Homemade pendants at one of the trail-side tables.
Started seeing these thin granite slabs, talked about in guidebooks etc.
Admiring the view.
X-large tree loaded with avocados.
These chickens brought an untimely end of my relationship with Helena (in jest). I mentioned the chickens I have at home, and how much I like them. She asked who takes care of them when I'm gone. I replied "My wife." :)
Reaching Redondela, I stopped for dinner at a restaurant, while Helena proceeded to the accommodation she had booked. After eating, I continued my quest.
Halloween
I enjoyed my stay at the O Refuxio de la Jerezana, but when I rose early, before first light, I couldn't figure out how to open the gate leading to the street, in the dark. I tried everything and finally managed to open it just enough to squeeze through.
Day 7
Oct 28, 2025
Cesantes to Portela
27.0 km (16.8 mi)
Galician Hórreo
A more elaborate Hórreo
Gear forwarding drop-off at a hotel in Pontevedra. Not my style but to each their own. At least these people are getting out and having an adventure. They are getting the fresh air and exercise, and they are seeing the sights. Most of them are couples. and most of them keep to themselves, so don't get the social interaction among the other pilgrims. I traveled to Portugal with everything I needed on the hike, and nothing more. No checked bags; my backpack was a carry on. So I don't need gear forwarding. But it's the lack of social interaction I would miss.
Looking out the window of a shop, I saw Helena again, walking though Pontevedra.
Bustling Pontevedra
I love this photo, and think it's one one of my favorite of the trip. These gals were on holiday, and obvious good friends. They were taking photos of each other on the
Ponte do Burgo over the Lerez river. I walked up and offered to take photos of them all, with their phones. And they were so delighted that I stepped in for a selfie.
Mid-afternoon on a cold and rainy day, I reached the
Albergue Portela and met the owner Bruno.
Writing on walls and doors.
Bruno really loves his dog, and gives it lots of attention.
Michelle from Germany. She speaks good English, and we enjoyed comparing notes of our Camino experiences.
Crowded bunk room with little or no ventilation.
My bunk in the center.
I enjoyed my stay here. The host, Bruno, was very nice; the showers were hot, the food was excellent, and the comradery among the pilgrims was second to none. But the room full of bunk beds was small, and lacked ventilation. I slept well at first, but woke up in the wee hours with the feeling that I had better get out of that room. Too many germs floating around, due to a couple of people coughing. So I took my things out into the common room, and stayed there for the rest of the night.
Day 8
Oct 29, 2025
Portela to Padrón
29.1 km (18.1 mi)
Peaches and apples
I met Michelle, again, in a coffee shop in Caldas de Reis.
While visiting with Michelle, she related that she had trouble going to sleep last night, because of the loud snoring. Myself, I fall asleep the moment my head hits the pillow, practically. My hearing turns off, and the night is absolutely silent. I don't know how I developed this skill, or whether it's good or bad. But I do know where and when. My first night in an Albergue last Spring, someone in the top bed of my bunk was snoring so loudly that each breath sounded like a gun shot. I tried everything to get some rest. Ear plugs, and noise-canceling ear phones over them playing soft music. The only thing that worked was ear plugs pressed far into the ear canal and my fingers pressed tight against them. An hour of this, and the guy quit snoring. I took out the ear plugs and went to sleep. Then the following morning at breakfast someone said the guy snored all night. Somehow my hearing had shut off. I now do this every night, and when I wake next morning, my hearing turns back on.
I talked with Michelle for twenty minutes, then enjoyed the city at large for another hour. I needed to withdraw some cash from an ATM, but couldn't remember my PIN. But I eventually found it in a archived note on my phone.
Note to myself: I need to carry a few (light-weight) business cards with my web address and contact info, to give to special people - like Michelle, Helena, and Ian whom I would enjoy hearing from again, to find out how the rest of their walk went.
These old churches are so interesting and full of character.
The more hungry I am, the more photos I seem to take of fruit falling uselessly and inaccessibly to the ground in someone's yard.
I needed water and saw this woman tending her garden, so I asked if she could fill my container. She didn't speak English and I don't speak Portuguese, but we made do with gestures. She was so friendly and glad to help, like most of the Portuguese people I've met on this trip.
Another young and attractive Asian woman (they seem to be everywhere). We exchanged hellos, then she when flying past.
I stopped by a café for a bite to eat, and they sold interesting Camino souvenirs.
In someone's yard.
I took a wrong turn and end up on the highway up there. Now I needed to get down to the road down here. And this was no small task. First, I had to climb over the fence - designed to keep people out. Then I had to descend this slope covered in blackberry brambles embellished with lots of thorns. It was all good (in retrospect).
That night I became sick, due to other people's germs flying around the previous night in the Albergue Portela. So I stayed in the Albergue O Pedrón for an additional two nights.
Day 11
Nov 1, 2025
Portela to Padrón
25.7 km (16.0 mi)
Flowers
Outside laundromat
New Mexico, my home state
This looks really old.
Fist view of Santiago.
There were many shops in Santiago selling interesting Camino souvenirs, but I didn't want to buy any, yet, because I wasn't finished hiking and didn't want to carry the extra weight.
I stayed in the Dadá Coliving & Rooms but don't necessarily recommend it.
After one full day of lounging in Santiago, I took a bus to Carrión de los Condes, located about mid-way on the Camino Francés route.
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