Continental Divide Route by motorcycle, Ray Jardine

2012-06 GDRx2

Preparations

Why do I love motorcycling? It helps me get around my back yard. And I have a big back yard. It extends all the way from Mexico to Canada.

Trip Notes:

I plan to ride pavement through NM and get on the route in southern Colorado. When I reach the Canadian border I will turn around and follow the route back to NM.

Meanwhile I'm getting the bike ready:

Changed engine oil and installed new oil filter
New spark plugs
New air filter
Checked valves timing (ok)
Lubed throttle and clutch cables
New tires (TKC80 knobbies) for riding dirt and gravel & new inner tubes
New chain and sprockets
New rear brake pads (front pads ok)
Flush brake lines
Check coolant (ok)

New tires mean new adventures. Oh boy!

Day 1

June 25, 2012: Arizona City to Bluewater Lake

Morning of departure

Salt River Canyon twisties

Enjoying a shady lunch in a public pavilion, in the town of St. Johns, AZ.

Near El Malpais National Monument

Campsite in Bluewater Lake State Park. I walked down the hill a short ways to find this support stick, then had to use rocks to secure the tarp because stakes wouldn't hold in the loose gravel.

Camp Click on "trail segment"
select "terrain"
then zoom out

Day's mileage: 379 mi

Day 2

June 26, 2012: Bluewater to campsite along FS-250

Stunning scenery outside of Thoreau, NM.

Across the desert on reservation land.

Good food at the Del Prado in Cuba, NM. I don't normally stop for breakfast, but had arranged to meet another rider, and he was late. And this table had all the right features: a large window so that I could keep an eye on my bike, and a plug-in to charge my phone.

This plate of Huevos rancheros was exceptional.

Meeting friendly riders.

El Vado reservoir

El Vado reservoir Click on "trail segment"
select "terrain"
then zoom out

Brazos Cliffs

Brazos Cliffs Click on "trail segment"
select "terrain"
then zoom out

The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad crossing the highway leading up to Cumbres Pass.

Now in southern CO, the route follows the Conejos River to the small town of Platoro.

I camped here last summer during my previous ride of the GDR. It's a beautiful place.

Day's mileage: 248 mi

Day 3

June 27, 2012: Campsite to Gunnison

Stunner Pass

Little and Big Red Mountains

Columbine

Wonderful Colorado scenery with Montezuma Peak and Long Trek Mountain.

Silky Phacelia

Back down in the desert, after a gas stop in Del Norte.

Hell's Gate

I came away with two good photos of this place.

Carnero Pass

"Look out ma, storm's a-coming!" (Reminds me of a Far Side cartoon.)

On the way to Cochetopa Pass, I reached this level spot and thought about camping because the road was getting slippery with mud.

At Cochetopa Pass the rain let up, and the road began to dry out. Nice camping here but it wasn't time to quit for the day. (Note that I often have to park facing the other way due to the short kickstand and the contrary slope of the ground.

Cochetopa Pass

This bronze plaque had been here for many years, but it was stolen a few years after I took this photo. A sad reminder of sometimes why we can't have nice things.

The nice lady at a motel in Gunnison let me hose the mud off the bike.

Day's mileage: 181 mi

Day 4

June 28, 2012: Gunnison to Kremmling

The road up to Marshall Pass is an old railroad grade.

Marshall Pass

A brood of wild turkeys crossing the road.

O'Haver Lake

After gassing-up in Salida, I'm climbing Bassam Park Pass. That's Mt. Antero (14,276'), Princeton (14,167'), and Mt. Yale (14,196') in the Sawatch Range.

Bassam Park Pass

The prairie lands of South Park en route to Hartsel.

A splash of color in a drab landscape.

One-Sided Penstemon.

The paintbrush was only a few inches tall; but still made a nice foreground image.

Riding through South Park under building skies.

Hartsel

Stormy skies en route to Como.

The old Como Depot was put back to use as a hotel and restaurant.

The ride up to Boreas Pass was rainy. Initially I could see that the weather up there was quite stormy, and I thought I had better not go up there, but it turned out alright.

Muddy road on the way down from Boreas Pass. Good view of the Tenmile Range.

During my 2010-TransAm bicycle trip I found a beautiful stealth camp in that clump of trees behind the white van. This is on the outskirts of Breckenridge.

Dillon Reservoir

View across the Gore Range while starting up Ute Pass. I spent the summer of 1974 up there instructing wilderness courses. (Once again I've parked the bike in the opposite direction of travel because of the ground slope.)

Henderson Molybdenum Mine.

Williams Fork Reservoir

Day's mileage: 233 mi

Day 5

June 29, 2012: Kremmling to Rawlins

SW of Kremmling: Gore Canyon, Colorado River, and the Union Pacific Railroad.

Radium, Colorado

The route climbs high on the opposite (West) side of Gore Canyon. This is a beautiful stretch of riding leading through remote country.

Beavers had recently built a dam just upstream of Big Rock Creek making the road crossing no longer so deep.

My tracks emerging from the other side.

The route circles Stagecoach Reservoir.

After refueling in Steamboat, I followed the route to Steamboat Lake.

Lunch stop. I had to apply repellent here to rebuff the biting flies. Otherwise I used very little on the trip.

A literal example of a road cut. Last summer this landslide turned me back, and I had to ride a 100-mile detour. So this time I was glad that the road crew had made a road behind the damage. The slope is still deemed unstable so the road crew can't get in there and repair the damage.

I thought I was free and clear the rest of the way to Rawlins, but a few miles later when pulling onto Sage Creek Road I encountered this "road closed" sign.

After giving the matter some thought, I proceeded ahead and soon met the FS tree cutting people. I asked the boss if they would let me through, and they relented on the basis that I was riding the GDR. Come to find out, they are quite used to mountain bicyclists coming through, and always let them through.

A hundred yards farther I came Aspen Alley and stopped to take a few photos.

Driving through, I turned around and could see the tree cutting operation - and was dismayed that they were this close to cutting down the wonderful Aspen Alley. They were likely widening the road, but I was saddened at the prospect of seeing this famous landmark come to an end, in the name of progress.

Descending into Wyoming's treeless Red Desert.

25 miles south of Rawlins I met this bicyclist. She was in need of water, so I gave her all of mine, 1.3 liters.

Miles out in the middle of nowhere, and what did I encounter? A stop light! I had to wait for 10 minutes, then further down the road I came to another one. The road crew was paving this road, and will eventually reach Aspen Alley although by the looks of things it might take them a few years.

Day's mileage: 209 mi

Day 6

June 30, 2012: Rawlins to Mosquito Lake

While getting gas in Rawlins I saw this striking sunrise. It was caused by the dust of the surrounding desert and the smoke of distant forest fires in Wyoming and Colorado.

Heading out into the Great Divide Basin (aka Red Desert). Lots of elbow room out here.

4.5 hours of this.

Out here, you can tell if a road is popular if it has a sign every 20 miles.

I saw maybe three dozen Pronghorn out here, in one's, two's and three's but I didn't try to photograph any of them because of their speed. They would go darting across the road in front of me and high-tail it across the prairies, and be gone in no time flat.

The Sweetwater River flowing out of the Wind Rivers, about 10 miles short of Atlantic City.

Atlantic City has no gas, and I'm 120 miles out. But I'm not worried because the bike gets such good gas mileage, and also because I'm carrying two liters of fuel in plastic water bottles just in case my figures are off.

The restaurant in Atlantic City had friendly folks and good hamburgers.

Two miles further along, the equally historic South Pass City.

More desolation NW of South Pass City. The Wind River Range is to my right, out of the photo.

Ten miles farther on, I get a good view of the Wind Rivers.

the first gas stop of the day, at the small town of Boulder. In 205 miles my bike got 80 mpg, and didn't need the spare fuel I was carrying. In fact the low fuel light didn't even come on (indicating one gallon left = another 80 miles).

The evening sunlight has given the landscape a reddish glow as I ride north from Pinedale towards Union Pass.

Lots of Columbine near camp.

Campsite near Mosquito Lake.

I call this place my Columbine Camp.

Day's mileage: 267 mi

Day 7

July 1, 2012: Mosquito Lake to Red Rock Pass

I have started my days in the dark so many times that I no longer bother using a flashlight when breaking camp and packing the bike. It's almost as though, come time to go, everything returns to it's rightful place.

Dawn rider.

At times I feel almost like pinching myself to find out if I'm awake and experiencing such beauty, or if I'm only dreaming.

I absolutely love to ride my motorcycle in the wilds, day after day. The beauty is endless and it truly stirs the soul.

Me and my shadow trucking along. I'm sometimes asked whether I am lonely, being out here by myself. No, never. Of course a big part of that is the assurance that Jenny is only a phone call away, and most evenings we enjoy long conversations. I enjoy telling her about my day, and she enjoys hearing about it. And also I enjoy meeting people and learning something about what they are up to. But aside from that, I feel at peace; comfortable in the wilds as the result of spending so much time out here. And with that, there is always so much to do. And at the end of the day I enjoy laying down and relaxing. It's a good kind of kind of tired; something to be savored. You can't get that in the city.

On the other side of Union Pass.

Heading toward Togwotee Pass. Even when the route follows the highway, on my bike I can pull over for photos at just the right places, something not possible in a car.

Pinnacle Buttes Click on "trail segment"
select "terrain"
then zoom out

Brooks Lake

Wind River Lake

At Togwotee Lodge, I stop for a quick breakfast at the gas station.

The day is hazy because of forest fires, but still good for photos.

At Flagg Ranch I met these folks who had ridden from South America

Rather go through Yellowstone, this time, I decided to stay on the GDR, which I've been following since southern Colorado. This is Grassy Lake.

Eventually the route comes out of the forest at Hy 47, where it's a short ride to see Upper Mesa Falls. I had not seen this falls before, and was blown away! If this were in Yellowstone, it would be a major attraction.

Upper Mesa Falls.

I've met dozens and dozens of mountain bikers so far on the GDR, and the vast majorly have been really friendly. But this was the first time on the trip that a bicyclist has offered to take my photo with my camera.

Here the route follows an old railroad grade

The dog's first ride, the woman said. These cattle guards were tough on my bike, hitting the skid plate despite the bike's high clearance.

In a few miles the route leading along the railroad grade turned into deep, black sand. And when that happened I chose the adjacent road leading to Island Park.

NW of Big Springs: What to do when an official route leads through an official closure? Squeeze through, I guess. (This section is meant to be bicycle only, but I didn't know that.)

The other end of the road closure.

Peaks in the Centennial Range, looking towards Mt. Jefferson (behind) and Nemesis Mountain.

End of day 7 at Red Rock Pass.

At my camp I noticed signs of grizzly activity, so this nearby posted sign made more sense.

My ad-hock bear-proof food storage container.

Day's mileage: 218 mi

Day 8

July 2, 2012: Red Rock Pass to Butte campsite

Upper Red Rock Lake

Sunrise and fog.

Fuel stop in Lima.

Following Big Sheep Creek along the Big Sheep Creek Back Country Byway, NW of Lima.

I met Andy west of Lima. This was his first time riding a bike over long distances. At first, I took him for a beginner at pretty much everything outdoor wise. But I actually met him again on my return trip, a few weeks later, and learned that he was was a long-distance motorcycle tourer; and in fact he had ridden to the tip of S. America. I asked him many questions about that, and he had all the right answers. But what inspired me was how he had dropped everything familiar and taken up this different challenge. Andy reminded me to once again shed the familiar and take up something new. It keeps life interesting and tends to expand ones horizons.

These mountains are part of the Beaverheads, one of my favorite mountain ranges for hiking. The Beaverhead Mountains run along the Idaho/Montana border and form the Continental Divide for nearly 200 miles, down from Chief Joseph Pass.

The turn-off to Morrison Lake.

The old Bannack Road.

Stopped for lunch on the Bannack Branch Road, north of Hwy 324, I met Wally from AZ. He passed by on the highway and stopped to chat. 80 years of age and "Still going." He had a wealth of local info and a great sense of humor.

Now on the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway, I stopped at this campground for a short nap on the picnic table.

Table Mountain (10,223') in the Highland Mountains Range.

I drove about 15 miles off route, East towards Delmoe lake, to find good camping. After dark, someone - who had camped somewhat nearby - started playing music. It was not too loud and was actually my kind of music, so I went with it and drifted off to sleep. On my long highway trips I like to listen to tunes, but while riding dirt I like to pay more attention to what I'm doing. I carried music on this trip but never had the urge to listen to it.

Day's mileage: 262 mi

Day 9

July 3, 2012: Butte Campsite to Kalispell

The old Northern Pacific Railway, abandoned Tunnel Number Nine, 1914, now on Boulder River Rd.

Link

Going through.

JB Mill site en route to Boulder.

Lunch stop in the shade. Grizzly Gulch Road.

Sticky Purple Geranium (viscosissimum) are common in the Rockies this time of year.

An abandoned lime kiln on the outskirts of Helena.

Bear Grass

Friendly Mountain Bikers on the Great Divide Route.

I never get tired or bored of riding my motorcycle on these dirt roads. Every minute is fun. I feel like I should pay for such amusement, but it's all free!

Abandoned Empire Mine millsite.

I sat down in the shade with my lunch and listened to the melody of the little creek. Yellow Monkey Flowers and young cattails.

Poormans road was in bad shape, last time, and it was all I could do to get down. So this time I traversed to Stemple Pass. (Poormans rd has since been greatly improved.)

Poormans road (S Fork)

Gas and food stop in Lincoln. Besides the fun, my second most favorite aspect of motorcycling is the friendly people met, all along the way. I tend to meet dozens every day, and many of them treat me almost like family. This couple was from S. Dakota and decided on this 4 day trip on a whim. Her bike weighs two or three times what mine does, but she handles it remarkably easily. Even rides it to work every day, she said.

The stretch over Huckleberry Pass (north of Lincoln) is one of my favorites. Good road, nice scenery.

"Reservoir Lake"

Reaching Seeley Lake, I learned from the local people that some portions of the route from here were blocked by downed trees. The winds have been so high in the past few days, they said, that even some mountain bicyclists had to ride the highway because of the blow-downs. So I slabbed it to Kallispel.

Day's mileage: 300 mi

Day 10

July 4, 2012: Layover day in Kalispell

Oil change

Day 11

July 5, 2012: Kalispell to millsite Campsite

I had to stop and jog for 15 minutes to regain warmth. This was the first time ever I had to do this. I could have used a heated jacket. Normally this summer I'm wearing an insulated jacket under my riding jacket, and over the top of all that goes my rain jacket. But this morning was extra cold.

While jogging I admired the Sego Lilies. There were about a dozen about the area. (Calochortus nuttallii, aka Mariposa Lily)

I stopped in Eureka for a warming coffee, then visited the city park historical museum.

At the Canadian border. I didn't go through, but turned around to start my south-bound ride along the same route. I was eager to see it all again, and knew that coming from the north, everything would look different - almost like a new and different ride.

Remarkably, this fence line is the International border. Long may the two countries remain on friendly terms.

The blue triangle is my position on the map. The black line is the GDR (Great Divide Route) I'm following. And incidentally, of all the improvements and gear that I have added to the bike, the GPS is at the top of the list. There are more important things like tire irons and so forth. But if I had to shed non-essentials, the GPS would be last to go. I've met a lot of people who use maps only, but in most cases I think they don't know how to use a GPS. To each his or her own, but I also think that they don't realize how much they are missing.

Gas stop.

Back in Eureka, the city park has a few nice camping sites.

Lots of pretty land for sale in Montana. A house here would have a small mountain in the back yard.

SE of Eureka, the GDR climbs far into the mountains.

If I were to camp around here, I would want bear spray handy.

Interesting spring gushing out of the road-cut.

A winter avalanche has covered the road, but the snow has begun to melt away.

A quarter mile farther I came to a second avalanche, and this time it's game over. I couldn't get through.

I have to backtrack 17 miles to the highway.

During the backtrack, I stopped to photograph these pretty bear grass flowers.

I would drink straight out of this creek, but I would treat the water of most creeks further south.

Coffee stop at the Mission Mountains Mercantile, in Condon. (The store burned down in 2016, but the owners rebuilt the place even better).

Back on the GDR, climbing Huckleberry Pass.

Back at Stemple Pass.

At the upper junction of Poorman's road, I stopped to talk with these friendly Cyclists.

The shadows are growing long as I pass by the Empire millsite.

I'm camped, at last, after another full and beautiful day. I had riveted a fastener to the tail box, for use in securing the tarp. The ridgelines are black and hard to see in this photo. One leads to the tail box, the other to the opposite tree. The beak guys are white.

Day's mileage: 370 mi

Day 12

July 6, 2012: Mine Campsite to Red Rock Pass

Loading up in the dark. I don't use a flashlight, but when ready to roll I make a final check by circling around and illuminating the area with the bike's headlight to see if I've missed anything.

Dawn is my favorite time of day. The day is fresh and new, and its adventures are awaiting. Excitement is in the air. Beauty is around each bend. Life's blood is flowing.

Then comes sunrise and more beauty everywhere. A golden sunrise reminds me not to live a mediocre life, but to begin each day at the start of the runway, to get life's prospects rev'd to the max, and to take off a-flyin'. It reminds me to LIVE life, each day, so that I don't miss anything.

A pretty sunrise also reminds me that the clouds might bring rain. And if the morning is early, that rain will be cold. But afterward the sky might clear, especially when I have motorcycled to a different place and left the clouds behind. And by mid morning that cold and wet will be but a memory. Stranger things have happened. So reaching Butte it's time to stop for gas and a steaming cup of coffee. (Note: I didn't care for the sign so I changed it.)

The flanks of Red and Table Mountains, above Butte.

Snow on Mount Fleecer.

Descending to I-15

Rest stop at one of the many road-side campgrounds along the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway. Looks like I am alone, but out of nowhere a guy came up and wanted to talk motorcycles. Seems he has a dirt bike strapped to the back of his motor home. So we had a nice chat. This ride report would be ten times the size if I featured all the friendly people I have met. Maybe that would be interesting, but unless they are exceptional, I don't care to infringe on their privacy by sticking a camera in their faces. So the camera remains in the tank bag and the encounters go undocumented.

Incidentally, when I do photograph people, I always ask their permission before they even see my camera, let alone before raising it to eye level. "Mind if I take your picture?" Sure, they are in the public eye, and I have my rights. But so do they, and their feelings count most. Not everyone likes to have their picture pasted all over the internet.

The Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway and Comet Mountain.

Bannack Bench Road

Out in the middle of nowhere. Cabin has hot showers, full kitchen, washer and dryer.

The girl is Canadian and the two guys are Danes. They met in Africa. Nice folks. I met them also earlier, on my way north.

The turn-off to Morrison Lake. This was my fifth time at this place while on journey. The first time was during our CDT thru-hike, and I left a fossil-like rock near here. Every time I visit I try to find that fossil. Last time I could not find it, but this time I did. It is not worth anything, but it is sort of a connection to past trips. A portal to forgotten memories.

I really like these cows being out here - out in nature (but away from the hiking trails).

Sheep Mountain

Upper Red Rock Lake

Taylor Mountain

Near the old homestead below Taylor Mountain

Camped again at Red Rock Pass; same trees, same stake holes :) This place is on the Continental Divide and directly below Mount Jefferson.

Day's mileage: 350 mi

Day 13

July 7, 2012: Red Rock Pass to Atlantic City

The Madison River in Yellowstone NP.

Firehole River.

I like to take my wildlife photos up close. No need to mess with telephotos. In fact, I had to step back for this next one.

Small boiling pot on the lake shore.

That special magic of Yellowstone.

West Thumb Geyser Basin

It's the fourth of July weekend, the busiest time of year for Yellowstone Park. Park visitors have come here in droves. Every campground is full to the brim. People are sharing campsites and I see four or five tents in many sites. The motels are all full to overflowing and people are sleeping in their cars parked in the streets. But the hour is early and the people are all still in bed - and I have the whole place to myself. I started my day at the beginning of the runway because I don't want to miss anything - like the golden early morning sunlight on the elk.

Jackson Lake Overlook

Back at Wind River Lake. It is beautiful country we live in. I invite you to go see some of it. You don't have to ride a motorcycle, or even hike the trails. Most of it is right there, in plain view.

On the way down from Togwotee Pass

Nice batch of Lupine

Heading for Union Pass, after making a detour down to Dubois for gas. Caught in my revere, I wasn't thinking ahead.

The Wind Rivers north of Pinedale. If I had an easy chair, I should like to sit for a while and soak in the beauty.

The Wind Rivers South of Boulder.

Headed for the Great Basin.

South Pass City

Stealth campsite half mile from Atlantic City.

Day's mileage: 353 mi

Day 14

July 8, 2012: Atlantic City to Steamboat

The Sweetwater River

Picket Lake. Jenny and I camped there during our 1992 CDT thru-hike.

I stopped to have a better look at a badger in the ditch, but it was a fast runner.

More interesting light of early morning.

Only four hours of crossing the Great Desert Basin. I drove faster this time.

After getting gas in Rawlins, I stopped to talk with this cyclist and gave him a cold sports drink. I sometimes carry these to hand out.

Aspen Alley revisited. The tree cutting operation has retreated.

At my lunch stop a couple of guys pulled up in their pick-up to talk motorcycles. This happens every now and then, and it always makes the world seem more friendly.

I started the trip with these tires, and now only about 5% of tread remaining. One measures the thread at my green arrows. The center of the tire is about worn out.

This was the last time I would be dry while riding today. the skies let loose, and the rain poured down all the way to Steamboat.

Day's mileage: 260 mi

Day 15

July 9, 2012: Steamboat to Salida

Morning fog.

Me and my shadow are going for a ride.

Behind Stagecoach Lake, the gate was open this time.

Stagecoach Lake

Selfie

Rock Creek crossing.

on my way north I followed this road. It's a much better road than the old GDR, and I hope some day they will change the route to this. But riding solo on a large bike, I couldn't chance the mud leading down to Radium, so chose to ride the slab to Kremmling, and rejoin the route there.

Williams Fork Res.

The Gore mountains as seen while coming down from Ute Pass.

the town of Silverthorn and a 50 mile paved bike path that starts by climbing Dillon Dam.

Blasting up Boreas Pass. The road is dry this time.

Boreas Pass

The old Como Depot.

En route to Hartsel.

Looks like rain ahead, but the bulk of this one missed me.

I stopped to help this friendly rancher change a tire on his trailer. We got to talking, and I learned something about ranching cows in these parts.

This crossing was deeper than expected but still quite manageable.

I could see that Marshall Pass was getting hammered with rain and knew that the road would be muddy. So I stopped a bit early in Salida.

Deer in the town of Salida.

I got hammered with pouring rain on my return from the Mexican restaurant without a rain jacket.

Day's mileage: 234 mi

Day 16

July 10, 2012: Salida to Camp NW of Stunner

Morning alpenglow on Mount Ouray.

Marshall Pass

Sargents

A good gravel road leading through pretty scenery is a magic carpet ride on a motorcycle. It is good, all-day entertainment.

This is Ben from NY. His bike has one gear only and no suspension. He has hiked the AT, and cycled across the country. He made his own gear, and he also rides a motorcycle. We enjoyed a good half-hour chat.

Cochetopa Pass

Carnero Pass

Iconic blasted totem.

The road crew was installing a culvert, but they kindly let me squeeze through.

The section going south to Del Norte is really fun, normally.

Riders from San Francisco.

The road department finally has the new detour around the airport well signed.

Fuel stop, Del Norte.

These gravel roads pass through some beautiful scenery.

I stopped riding early today to enjoy my last camp in the Colorado Rockies. Tomorrow I would leave the route in New Mexico and make my way back home.

This little Columbine was growing behind my camp. It was the only one in the area.

Day's mileage: 178 mi

Day 17

July 11, 2012: Stunner Camp to Show Low, AZ

Warming up the bike. The night became very cold.

Nice reflection.

Little and Big Red Mountains

Platoro

Chama

Selfie on the bridge over the El Vado dam.

An amazing 40 miles of rain pummeling the highway. My camera isn't waterproof and quit working just after I took this photo. So this was my last picture of today's ride.

I dried the camera at the motel and it started working again.

Day's mileage: 431 mi

Day 18

July 12, 2012: Show Low to Home

One more pretty sunrise for the trip.

Here comes another biker . . .

It's Jenny, welcoming me home!