Ray's 2025 Moto Alaska

9,350 miles, 29 days

July 2025

230 photos in this story.

I don't plan any of my trips around the full moon, but often seem to get them.

This trip started on a full moon, and subsequently ended on one.

Life is golden.

Map

SpotWalla

Day 1

Springerville to Rangely 551 miles

July 10, 2025

The morning of departure. The ski hanging on the wall is one that Jenny used when skiing to the South Pole.

The weeks of preparation are done, and I am ready to go.

An early dawn departure. (The camera is compensating for the darkness.)

Following force of habit, my trip officially begins at the first gas station - in Springerville, AZ.

The time is 5:19 am, and the odometer reads 19,713 miles. Let the ride begin! Godspeed and be safe to us all.

Rest stop in Shiprock, AZ

Gas stop in Cortez, CO

I usually stop here in Dove Creek, CO when passing though the area, for the shaded picnic tables outside the gas station.

Rest stop in Naturita, CO

North of Gateway CO, I watched a wildfire blazing high on the plateau above the canyon. The wind was strong and sometimes the flames erupted to fearsome heights.

Camp 1: Rangely Camper Park in Rangely, CO. I had pitched the tarp directly behind the motorcycle.

Day 2

Rangely to Red Rock 461 miles

July 11, 2025

The previous evening I enjoyed talking with a few members of a team of geologists camped there at the Rangely Camper Park. I liked this campground even though it had two odd quirks. The fee was $10 cheaper for the non-electric sites, so of course I chose one of those. I tried to use the outlets at a couple of adjacent, empty sites, to charge my phone. But the 110v charger didn't fit electric outlets; the prongs went into the receptacle only half way. I tried two outlets in different sites, and finally one receptacle created sparks that blew my charger.

The other odd feature of the campground was the bathroom building. The campground fee included showers, but oddly the men's shower room was locked.

Early morning, I catch the full moon setting over the western skyline.

I don't plan any of my trips around the full moon, but often seem to get them. this trip started on a full moon, and subsequently ended on one.

I stop for coffee and a breakfast sandwich at Dinosaur, CO

At a park in Dinosaur, CO. The display sign read: (TRY-SER-UH-TOPS) THREE HORNED FACE - CRETACEOUS PERIOD"

Somewhere along Hwy 191 in this area. Beautiful ride.

I usually follow Hwy 191 to Dutch John, UT; but this time I chose Hwy 44 to Manila, UT and Mountain View, WY, both of which I've not seen before.

Mountain View, WY

Camp 2 along Red Rock road. A favorite; I've camped here many times.

Day 3

Red Rock to Pincher Creek

July 12, 2025

Henry's Lake, ID

Early coffee and breakfast stop in Ennis, MT

A huge benefit to motorcycle riding is the friends you meet almost every where you go. And it's a big part of why I like riding so much. This couple were not on a bike. They were driving a commercial semi, a big 18-wheeler. But they have done a lot of motorcycle touring. And we talked for a good half hour.

They lived in Canada, and had immigrated from Ukraine long ago, before the trouble started. Driving commercially was their job, but motorcycle touring was their passion.

After filling the tank in Helena, MT, I was taking a picture of the bike against a group of bikers - when one of them walked over and offered to take my photo.

Nice job, ma'am, and thank you!

The two women were members of a motorcycle club out of Iowa, and picked up these gents along the way. One of the guys said they had seen a moose a while ago.

The woman handled her big Harley with ease, so I asked her how long had she been riding. "Ever since I can remember." Yup, it looked like it. And that's the thing about these big motorcycles. After riding them for a bunch of years, you get used to the weight and it no longer bothers you. The key, I supposed, was to keep them balanced.

Welcome to Canada

Day 4

Pincher Creek to Wild Hay Borrow Pit

July 13, 2025

Sunrise

Are we having fun yet?

700

Ice

Camp 4: Wild Hay Borrow Pit

Day 5

Wild Hay Borrow Pit to Ft Nelson Borrow Pit

July 14, 2025

Riding in heavy rain all morning.

Dawson Creek

Shopping for a few groceries in Fort St John.

Camp 5: Ft Nelson Borrow Pit.

Come dinner time, I'm pretty ravenous.

Day 6

Ft Nelson Borrow Pit to Watson Lake

July 15, 2025

Tetsa River Lodge

Cinnamon Bun and coffee

Stone sheep, five of them.

Signpost Forest in Watson Lake

Shower at the Watson Lake Recreation Center, then Laundry and groceries at Tags.

Wild strawberries.

More strawberries.

Too much of a good thing when you want to make camp.

Camp 6: Watson Lake

Day 7

Watson Lake to Spruce Beetle Borrow Pit

July 16, 2025

Back at Tags for breakfast and bio break.

Yukon River

I pulled off the highway to look at the Yukon River and the bridge crossing it, when this woman walked up to me with a bowl of hot pork and beans, saying she had made to much, and did I want any? Beans are one of my favorite foods, and I was hungry. Oh, the nice people you meet while touring; It never fails to amaze me!

The couple was from Wisconsin, headed to Alaska. The guy owned the company Benshot together with his son, making novel shot glasses (photo below). His company has a staff of 40. The woman is an artist and she showed my some of her work, on her phone. She specialize in making huge paintings of wildlife. For example an elephant two stories tall, with near photo realism.

The guy gave me this shot glass. They are for sale here.

Otter Falls Cutoff

Haines Junction, Yukon, Canada

Camp 6: Spruce Beetle Borrow Pit

Bee

There is beauty everywhere you look. Here I find a nice bunch of rose hips.

Day 8

Spruce Beetle Borrow Pit to Tok

July 17, 2025

Changing oil at Thompson's

Thompson's was one of my favorite places on the trip.

Vanessa Thompson

Vanessa gave me this.

A neighboring camper and motorcyclist, Adam Shani from Israel. He went to the grocery store and bought fixings for dinner, returned to the camp and cooked his dinner on the stove at the camp kitchen area, then sat down on the picnic table between his camp and mine. I was resting under my tarp, when I heard him say "I've got too much to eat. Are you hungry? I joined him, and he gave my half of his dinner!

He taught me a valuable lesson. Share what you have with someone else.

Vanessa is much the same. She buys tools for the Motorcycle Workshop for everyone to use.

It was after midnight when we quit talking and went to bed. And still the night wasn't dark.

Day 9

Tok to Fairbanks

July 18, 2025

The next morning I rode into town (Tok, AK) for showers and laundry

Traffic stops for construction are common along these highways. They usually last about 15 minutes. Some drivers are frustrated by the delays, and by motorcyclists going to the front of the line, even though that's the standard protocol. The pilot truck driver wants the motorcycles directly behind the truck, to avoid the dust created by the other vehicles. The vehicles have windows that close; motorcycles do not. Anyway, I usually like to chat with the flag person.

Reaching Fairbanks I visited a motorcycle shop for a new rear tire. Here, I have the center stand down, and the panniers strapped to the front of the bike, to lift the rear tire off the ground for removal.

Michelin Anakee Wild 50/50 170/60R-17

Camp 9: Sven's

One of my few restaurant meals of the trip. Gotta be rice and beans.

Day 10

Fairbanks to Coldfoot

July 19, 2025

Headed for Coldfoot. The Harley and blue truck are a husband and wife team. They started in Michigan, rode/drive down to Key West to begin an Iron Butt Coast-to-Coast Ultimate, headed for Prudhoe.

Camp 11: Coldfoot (free camping and use of the restrooms)

Day 11

Coldfoot to Prudhoe

July 20, 2025

After riding through two miles of gooey mud, I pulled off the road here.

I flagged down the first truck coming south, and asked the driver about the road to the north "How far does this gooey mud extend? "Less than a mile," he said. "After that it gets firmer." Nevertheless, I was about to head back, when a big water truck stopped nearby. The one making most of the mud. The driver apologized for the mud, saying "That's how the company does things." He said he works a stretch of three or four miles a day. I had already come through two miles of mud, and he was about to add three more. That would effectually block my way south.

So reluctantly, I resumed riding north.

Muddy pants and boots

The Dalton Highway leading up to Atigun Pass. The road crosses the Brooks Range and its high point is the Continental Divide.

Atigun Pass

Descending Atigun Pass

On the north side of the pass, I have stopped to wash my boots in a creek.

The main fuel station in Deadhorse

"Welcome to Deadhorse Alaska, End of the the Dalton Highway"

Prudhoe Bay, AK 99734

I got a room at the Arctic Fox Environmental Analytical Laboratory in Prudhoe, and became friends with the laboratory supervisor, James.

Arctic Fox Laboratory

We went fishing in the nearby stream, part of the Sag River flowing out of the Brooks Range.

James likes to look for agates and interesting rocks wherever he goes, and it took me back to all the time I've spent looking for agates on the gravel bars of the Yellowstone River.

James in his lab.

James has a degree in Biochemistry and works as an environmental chemist. He is the laboratory supervisor overseeing all operations of the company (except bookkeeping, he said).

During my stay, a surprising number of workers brought samples to be tested.

For my final night in Prudhoe, Jenny treated me to a room in the Aurora Hotel.

The parking lot at the Aurora.

So far it has been a wonderful trip. A trip of a lifetime. I have met so many interesting and friendly people. And the beauty of nature has been remarkable.

Day 15

Prudhoe to Coldfoot

July 24, 2025

I went outside and found that mother goose had adopted four goslings.

Riding in fog. The first 50 miles is good payment; most of the rest is dirt.

Atigun Pass

Descending the pass. The road is muddy.

Back in Coldfoot

Midnight, 16 bikes

Day 16

Coldfoot to Fairbanks

July 25, 2025

Yukon River Camp

Picked up a nail in the rear tire. Tubeless tires are easy to patch, a big plus when it's raining.

Day 17

Fairbanks to Sourdough Creek CG"

July 26, 2025

I took this photo later in the trip, but this squirrel (American red) was very similar to the one in my story here.

I had stopped a rest area, the day before, and was eating a snack - when a squirrel climbed onto the motorcycle and sat on top of the gas tank. It almost acted tame, and was looking for a hand-out. And of course it got fed.

The next day in Fairbanks I was buying groceries at a supermarket, and came across a stuffed squirrel dog toy. This reminded me of the squirrel encountered the day before. The squirrel that acted so strange, sitting on my bike even though I was standing right there. the resemblance was uncanny. So I decided to buy it, and make it my journey's mascot.

Sparkle

I was loading my groceries into the panniers, there in the supermarket's parking lot, when a guy approached that started criticizing my bike. "If the motorcycle wasn't so dirty, I could tell what kind it is." he remarked. I had just come off the Haul Road, so of course the bike was super dirty. He was only kidding, and said that I could use his pressure washer. This was a most welcome offer!

Dave and his pressure washer

Clean bike at Dave's place

Chena River State Recreation Site

A thing of real beauty (to the motorcycle owner)

Fireweed at a rest stop

Camp 17: Sourdough Creek Campground

Day 18

Sourdough Creek CG to Dry Creek CG

July 27, 2025

Sparkle at Glennallen coffee stop.

"Omgosh that's great! That's so funny. I love the little girl. She'll make a great side kick in your adventures. You'll have to take photos of sparkle in different spots. Oh, the places she'll see." -James Lawton

Mt Wrangell on the right

Valdez

These Friendly South Korean tourists were intrigued by a motorcyclist who had traveled all the way from New Mexico.

Camp 17: Dry Creek State Recreation Site

Day 19

Dry Creek CG to Tok

July 28, 2025

Sparkle riding pillion.

"So is Sparkle ready to drive the bike yet, in case you get tired? Make sure she wears her helmet." -James L.

Fireweed

Camp 19: Thompson's

Sparkle took James' advice and got a helmet.

"Sparkle could live in her helmet if she wanted to. That's some serious protection! I like it. She takes safety seriously and prepares for what lies ahead! Sounds like someone I know." -James L.

Sparkle reads the Milepost

Day 20

Tok to Dawson City

July 29, 2025

The guy did a U-turn between the green truck and my bike, without backing up. I was impressed!

Camp 20: Yukon River Campground

Sternwheeler Graveyard, just downriver of camp

Day 21

Dawson City to Skagway

July 30, 2025

Waiting for the ferry

The ferry ride was a bit unnerving because I couldn't lower the kickstand due to the slope of the deck, so had to hold the bike steady with both feet while the ferry gently rocked. And the deck was wet and felt a bit slippery. I was glad to reach firm ground.

Last time I was here in Dawson City, I was faced with the same dilemma. Early morning and nothing was open.

Sternwheeler

My repair is leaking a bit, so I'm adding more air while Sparkle supervises.

Pelly Crossing

Five Finger Rapids. When we paddled the Yukon River, we went though here.

During a rest stop, Sparkle explores the forest.

Bove Island Viewpoint I have paddled this lake, following the left bank all the way to Whitehorse and beyond.

Camp 21: Dyea Campground. I've camped here before. This where Jenny and I began our portage over the Chilkoot Trail

Day 22

Skagway to Watson Lake

July 31, 2025

Skagway

The bubbles were real. The gas station owner had a bubble machine nearby. Fun!

Sparkle takes in the stunning scenery.

Stop for coffee and a snack at Teslin. By the way, I never ask people to take my picture. The nice folks met along the way offer by themselves. Typically I'm taking a photo of my bike, when someone comes along and says "Hey, do you want me to take your photo?" It's always much appreciated.

Refueling at Tags in Watson Lake

Camp 22: Watson Lake

Day 23

Watson Lake to Ft Nelson Borrow Pit

August 1, 2025

Coal River. Good coffee and nice people. (I drink coffee only when on the motorcycle trip, to help keep me alert.)

Bison (story)

Muncho Lake

Toad River

Shower at the Aquatic Centre, laundry at the laundromat, groceries and gas, then get the heck out of Dodge.

Camp 22: Ft Nelson Borrow Pit

(Story of the fly)

Day 24

Ft Nelson Borrow Pit to Cariboo Hwy Rest Area

August 2, 2025

Ahh, nice rest stop. (humor, next photo)

"There is someone on a motorcycle trying to take a rest. Let's go talk with him." Funny. I always enjoy talking with people. I'm only making fun of the word "rest" as in "rest area." For the person on a bike, rest areas are not always very restful. But in reality, I'm just so thankful that people want to talk with me, and for the fact that riding solo is not riding alone.

Stopped in Quesnel to take a break in the shade, and was photographing the bike when "Hey, you want me to take your picture?

Little Sparkle as been resting comfortably in the tail box most of the day, and she looks like she's glad to be out for the fresh air. This is Camp 24: Cariboo Hwy Rest Area

I've never camped at a rest area before, but there were no "No Camping" signs. I had been looking for camping for the last hour and was tired; I've seen plenty of people camping in small or medium sized RVs at many of the rest stops, and I saw a homeless guy camping in a tent along the road in Quesnel. However, there were not many signs of people tent camping here. A few, but not many. The only negative was the dog poop everywhere, but I use a good ground sheet under my net-tent.

Day 25

Cariboo Hwy Rest Area to Seattle

August 3, 2025

I stopped for breakfast and gas at Williams Lake, and was just riding away from town when the idiot light began flashing on my dash, indicating a low pressure situation in the rear tire. This was odd because I had added air this morning before breaking camp. Clearly, the patch was failing. So I pulled over into a motel parking lot.

Yep, the old patch was working it's way out of the puncture hole. So I stuffed in a couple of new strips, and they solved the problem. (And it fact, the tire has never leaked since.)

Funny story: I stopped in Spences Bridge for a rest, and fell asleep on a bench under the awning shown in the photo. A few minutes later I awoke, and looked up to see my tarp. In my fuzzy mindset I thought I had never left camp this morning. No, that couldn't be right. Then I thought I had made camp this evening - but where did the afternoon go? Then I realized I was not looking up at my tarp, but the awning in the rest area. Had I been pushing it too hard these last few days?

A fearsome wildfire in Fraser Canyon.

I arrive at my brother's house in Seattle.

I hadn't seen my brother and his wife for a few years, and I had never been to their house. So this was a real treat.

I had been riding with no rear brakes for the last three days. The brake pads had worn out. Not good. Jenny had sent new pads to my brother's. Now it was time to install them.

The brake pads, new and old. Before leaving on the trip, I had new pads in my hand, ready to take with me as spares. But I thought "Nah, I won't need them." Woops! The first time I rode to Alaska, I carried spare brake pads; and during the trip actually needed them. Bottom line: Alaska is hard on brakes.

How do you ride a big motorcycle that has no rear brakes? The front brakes on this bike are linked; so when you apply the front brakes, the system automatically applies the rear brakes also. So I couldn't use the front brakes too often, because it wears the rear rotor. So instead I mainly used engine compression braking. This worked good because the bike has a powerful engine. And also I looked far ahead, to avoid the need to make quick stops.

My brother had endured a quadruple bypass a few months ago. His recovery was doing great, so now he wanted to take me on his first outing, to hike a short section of the PCT.

He also took me to his gym, and for a walk along the shore of Puget Sound.

Day 28

Seattle to Snowville 730 miles

August 6, 2025

Huntington, OR (Good food)

Meridian, ID. I took a nap here, in the grass behind the Lowes building. Best nap of the trip.

Camp 28: Snowville, UT. (The camera is compensating for the darkness.)

Day 29

Snowville to Springerville 711 miles

August 7, 2025

Wilson Arch (Window Rock)

Gas stop and brief nap at Newcomb, NM. Just about every trip north, I have a photo like this, of a Navajo dog: homeless, not tame, not willing to be petted, and begging for food. I always feed them and show a little bit of love.

Approaching St Johns AZ

After riding from Seattle WA to Springerville AZ in just two days, I arrive at the final gas station, Springerville.

During the last two days, I should have taken more time, and followed a different route. During that time I sometimes became drowsy, so I would stop and take a short nap while sitting on the motorcycle. I had two sleep postures: 1) Lying back against the yellow gear bag looking at the sky, with my feet propped up on the engine. And 2) with my body leaned forward, head lowered against the fuel tank, and my feet lowered to the ground. After a few minutes of sleep, I could ride again fully awake. During my trip though Canada and Alaska I had no problems with drowsiness because I was riding shorter distances each day.

16 hummingbirds

	Date	Track	Miles	Night	Comments
Day 1	July 10	Springerville to Rangely	551 miles	Camp
Day 2	July 11	Rangely to Red Rock	461 miles	Camp
Day 3	July 12	Red Rock to Pincher Creek	440 miles	Camp
Day 4	July 13	Pincher Creek to Wild Hay Borrow Pit	574 miles	Camp
Day 5	July 14	Wild Hay Borrow Pit to Ft Nelson Borrow Pit	503 miles	Camp
Day 6	July 15	Ft Nelson Borrow Pit to Watson Lake	354 miles	Camp
Day 7	July 16	Watson Lake to Spruce Beetle Borrow Pit	379 miles	Camp
Day 8	July 17	Spruce Beetle Borrow Pit to Tok	281 miles	Camp
Day 9	July 18	Tok to Fairbanks	205 miles	Camp
Day 10	July 19	Fairbanks to Coldfoot	257 miles	Camp
Day 11	July 20	Coldfoot to Prudhoe	244 miles	Lodging
Day 12	July 21	Rest Day in Prudhoe		Lodging
Day 13	July 22	Rest Day in Prudhoe		Lodging
Day 14	July 23	Rest Day in Prudhoe		Lodging
Day 15	July 24	Prudhoe to Coldfoot	244 miles	Camp
Day 16	July 25	Coldfoot to Fairbanks	257 miles	Camp
Day 17	July 26	Fairbanks to Sourdough Creek CG	215 miles	Camp
Day 18	July 27	Sourdough Creek CG to Dry Creek CG	271 miles	Camp
Day 19	July 28	Dry Creek CG to Tok	134 miles	Camp
Day 20	July 29	Tok to Dawson City	185 miles	Camp
Day 21	July 30	Dawson City to Skagway	444 miles	Camp
Day 22	July 31	Skagway to Watson Lake	326 miles	Camp
Day 23	August 1	Watson Lake to Ft Nelson Borrow Pit	354 miles	Camp
Day 24	August 2	Ft Nelson Borrow Pit to Cariboo Hwy Rest Area	561 miles	Camp
Day 25	August 3	Cariboo Hwy Rest Area to Seattle	476 miles	Lodging
Day 26	August 4	Rest Day in Seattle		Lodging
Day 27	August 5	Rest Day in Seattle		Lodging
Day 28	August 6	Seattle to Snowville	727 miles	Camp
Day 29	August 7	Snowville to Springerville	711 miles	End

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