Day 20, Wyoming
August 4, 2010: Lander. Miles pedaled: 0.
My new bike arrived today, so I kept Ed busy putting it together changing out a few components from my old bike. The other mechanic was a great help also. For me, it was an exercise in staying out of the way and letting the work be done.
We used the old handlebars, seat, and pedals, so the new bike feels much like the old one. But man, does it ever ride better. It is so much easier to pedal, it seems to just glide along.
In almost 10,000 miles of cycling between three trips, I have had the pleasure of having work done at only two bike shops that I felt were outstanding. The one in Springfield MO, and this one here in Lander WY. This shop is called "Gannett Peak Sports" and is run by Ronda and Brian, and their staff. They made my new bike the number one priority for the day, making sure it was done on time. They gave me a low price on labor, and a nice credit for the swap-out parts. And they made me feel almost like family. In short, they made my day. But thanks most of all to Ed for being a super sharp bike mechanic.
With that said, I'm ready to depart tomorrow morning.
Day 21, Wyoming
August 5, 2010: From Lander to Jefferson. Miles pedaled: 63.
I was all set to depart, until last night my "smart" phone ate my photos. So this morning I had to wait until 9:00 am when the radio shack opened, so that I could buy a replacement SD card. (The original card I then send home, and later recovered the photos with computer software.) Then after a few more errands, it was not until 10:30 when I left town.
The new bike pedaled a great deal better, but still I crossed my fingers at mile seven when I came to the hill that ate my last spoke. But the new bike went up the hill with no problems. At that point I felt that I was on my way.
25 miles out of town I saw a person on a bike headed the other way, and waved. The next thing I knew he was following me, and coming on fast. I thought, "What the heck?" He must have something important to tell me, possibly about the conditions ahead. I pulled over and came to a stop. Then I recognized him. I couldn't believe my eyes. It was Ed.
"Out for a morning's ride," he said. "It's my day off. I've been looking for you all morning. I've been up to Sweetwater City. Saw Jack up there."
I explained that I got a late start because of the smart-phone problem. We stood in the sun talking for a good 20 minutes or more, like long lost friends.
I'll tell you, the people I've been meeting on this trip have been something else. And Ed is at top of the list. In my book "Trail Life" I featured this quote by some other writer: "When you have a taste for exceptional people you always end up meeting them everywhere."
The remainder of the afternoon seemed to drag on, because of the heat, the treeless, open scenery, and because I hadn't rested well in town. There was so much to be done. So that afternoon I decided to stop at Jefferson City, to get some more rest.
Reaching Jefferson, I saw four bikes parked in the shade, so I went into the café and found my four friends, only one of which I had met. I had seen the others in town yesterday. In the café they had a table piled with empty soda cans. "You had a head start," I remarked, "now its my turn," as I opened my first soda - of five.
After a while, a young woman pedaled up, and joined our little group. And what an eclectic group it was. Rita (red shirt) was from Rhode Island, one couple was from New Zealand, Jack was from Australia and his wife from Ireland.
Someone local offered that we could camp across the street, near an open pavilion, so we moved to there, set up our shelters, cooked and ate dinner (I ate my sandwich), and enjoyed each others company.
Day 22, Wyoming
August 6, 2010: From Jefferson to Rawlins. Miles pedaled: 67.
I don't carry an alarm, but rely on the clock in my head. So I was laying there half-waiting for the dawn, when I saw a flashlight nearby. It was Rita getting up. Now that's my kind of gal. I like to rise with the dawn, and have met very few adventurers who do the same.
Rita and I exchanged pleasantries, then I hit the road a minute behind her, going the other way of course. The morning was quiet, windless, and traffic free, although that would change in another hour.
For a while I thought about Rita, about how she was among the among the most "Think for yourself" people I have met this summer. Her home-made panniers were just one example. Another was her traveling style. Most cross-county cyclists start at one coast and pedal every inch of way to the other coast. This is the style that I prefer. But Rita had a different plan. She wanted to cover the distance with her bike; but in order to do that - in her very limited time away from school - she had to cover some 130 miles a day. So she had struck a comprise, and was pedaling the first half of the day, and then admittedly hitchhiking the remainder of the day to her 130 mile point.
Some would say that's cheating. Another approach is to say that the ones who stay at home are the cheaters, because they are cheating themselves out of - not only the second half of the day - but the entire adventure. I used to belong to this second school of thought, but have sense changed my mind. Now I think that everyone is doing the right thing for them. If someone wants to stay home, then that's what's right for them.
While pedaling along, I observed a large number of antelope, a few at a time, some up close. Many were between the fence and the road, as though the browsing was somewhat better on the road side, than out in the field. whenever I came along, they would have to cross the fence. But they don't like to jump over a fence, as deer do. Instead they would crawl under them. But they also know where the best gaps between the ground and the lowest wire are, and make a beeline for these gaps when necessary. Smart animals.
The past several days have been shadeless, due to a lack of trees out here in the Wyoming desert. Only once did I find a bit of shade: a small patch under a highway sign. It seemed like a bit of heaven.
The headwinds sprung up, and I labored for five hours at slow speed. So when I reached Rawlins, I felt pretty beat. The sun, the wind, the traffic, the road leading to the endless horizon - all play with a person's mind. And not only with those who pedal bikes; I saw some pretty crazy driving out there.
Now I'm in a comfortable motel and looking forward to the morrow's adventures.
Day 23, Colorado
August 7, 2010: From Rawlins to Walden, Colorado. Miles pedaled: 109.
I started out at dawn, just when I could see where I was going. But I missed the turnoff to the frontage road (unsigned) and found myself on the I-90 freeway. The traffic was light and the shoulder wide, and anyway route went onto the freeway in another few miles at Sinclair; so no harm done. But it felt strange pedaling on a freeway. But of course it's legal here in this part of Wyoming, out in the middle of nowhere.
Reaching Walcott, 15 miles further on, the route turned south and headed for Saratoga. And that's where I picked up the headwinds. But it was a beautiful ride.
I had not been to Saratoga before, and found it an unusual town. Firstly, the Platte River flows through here, big and wide. Such a sudden contrast from being out in the desert for so many days. And above the town is a big and nicely paved airstrip with a few corporate jets parked. Not what one would expect out here.
From there, the route leads to Riverside, a small town of "59 residents." I stopped for refreshments, same as in the last town. But this time I bought enough for dinner also, because the next town, Walden, CO was 50 miles further on, and I was not sure I could reach it today. I had already pedaled nearly 60 miles.
But reach it I did, and after eating in a restaurant I pedaled like mad to the city park in a drenching rain, and set up the tarp.
While laying bed writing, I heard a soft voice nearby: "Honey, are you hungry? You can come to my house and I'll feed you." Without looking out, I answered: "No, I just ate, thank you." She left and I never saw her face.
Miles pedaled today: 109
Day 24, Colorado
August 8, 2010: From Walden to Kremmling. Miles pedaled: 62.
I slept in, because of rain, and debated whether to leave at all. I had a nice, comfortable camp, and I was warm and dry. The sky looked foreboding with dark clouds hanging low. It would not be a good day for cycling.
But the spirit of adventure called, and that call is hard to deny. So at 7:30 I set off.
All day I looked for places to camp, and found about 50 of them. Whenever I would find one, I thought "The weather is not that bad ... yet" So I kept on going.
The first 30 miles seemed uphill most of the way. The headwinds were strong, so my speed was low. "That's OK," I told myself, "just keep it rolling." In fact that has become my mantra. "keep it rolling."
I did not take any photos today, because of the rain. I stowed the camera in the dry bag behind me, so I missed a few nice photos of the high Colorado landscape. The nicest one (I missed) was a big deer with a full rack lying comfortably, and hidden in the ditch just 15 feet from the road.
I followed road 14 to avoid the clouds hanging low on the mountains, but when I reached road 40 I had to deal with heavy traffic and no shoulders for 25 miles. The day was a Sunday and everyone was on their way home from Steamboat. Plus, there were no towns for 62 miles until I reached Kremmling.
The low mileage was because of the strong headwinds, on both sides of the pass.
Miles pedaled today: 62. Total miles so far: 1,708
Day 25, Colorado
August 9, 2010: From Kremmling to Breckenridge. Miles pedaled: 56.
I started out at dawn, pedaled through the small town and followed SR 9 to Green Mtn Reservoir in a light rain. The road had no shoulder, and as time went on, the traffic increased. But with the pretty scenery I enjoyed the ride, at least during the breaks in the traffic.
While riding along the thought occurred to me that throughout this trip there have been very few places to stop and get out of the rain or wind. And such a place was not likely this morning. So what did I find, a little further on, but a nice sheltering spruce.
The closer I got to Silverthorne the more nice homes I saw. It was such a beautiful place to live, and no doubt the prices of real estate were sky high. About a mile from town I got onto a paved bike path that was fun. What made it fun? It didn't go straight, but had lots of fun curves.
Once in town I left the bike path for refreshments, then got back on it, crossed under the I-70 freeway, and that is when the real fun began. The rest of the day was pure magic.
The bike path switch-backed up to the Dillon dam, and I pedaled with lots of other bikers. This part was very beautiful and well worth the price of admission, but it was all free.
He introduced himself as Larry, and asked where was I going. My bag on the rear rack was a giveaway, he had pedaled the Northern Tier. I said I needed to find the P.O. in Frisco, six miles further on. "OK," he said, I'll take you there."
Oh man, I wish I had a helmet camera for what came next. "Lightning" Larry was a fast rider, and the bike path was nice and curvy. I had to work to keep up, but man did we have fun! I stayed about two feet behind him, and off to one side.
There were many other people on bikes, some slow, some fast, but everybody kept to traffic right, out of each others way. And the scenery? It was outstanding.
Along the straight stretches we talked of life in these parts, and he invited me to stay at his house. But I said that I needed to be moving along. So when we reached the P.O. I thanked him for the "guide service," then he had to leave.
In many ways, the ride with Larry was one of my favorite parts of the trip so far.
At the P.O. I picked up a small package from Jenny, and then sent a few things back home.
I stopped for snacks in Breckenridge, and found it crawling with tourists so didn't linger.
So I hit the road, and started up the hill to Hoosier Pass, 11,542 feet, the highest on the entire route. But it did not look good. Black clouds were moiling against the mountains, and I could see the odd bolt of lighting. I was not about to go up there in these conditions.
So a mere two minutes above town I found a nice place to camp. It was 150 feet off the road, and nestled in the lodge-pole trees and perfectly hidden. Never mind the surrounding expensive condos and what have you.
So I set up camp, in a light rain, then fell to sleep in a heavy rain. All was good, except for a startling bolt of lightning that hit the trees close by.
Towards evening, dodging the bursts of rain, I walked two minutes back to the last gas station for something to eat, like a regular tourist..
In all, a very fun day!
Update 2016: The area of my stealth camp has been developed with more condos. Very sad to see such a beautiful natural place bite the dust.
Day 26, Colorado
August 10, 2010: From Breckenridge to Canon City. Miles pedaled: 98.
At 10,400 feet, I slept warm in my single layer alpine quilt wearing only Lycra shorts, a shell jacket and a sleeping hat.
I started out half an hour after dawn, wearing all my clothes, mittens and rain parka. It was cold. It took me about two hours to reach Hoosier Pass, and along the way I saw much evidence of yesterday's torrential rains. I was glad to have waited down there for the storm to pass. This morning's sky was clear and blue.
From the pass at 11,542 ft it was a straight shot down to Alma, at high speed, where I enjoyed a hearty breakfast in a little café.
The bike path from there to Fairplay was too rough for comfort so I stuck to the road.
Beyond Fairplay the road led gently downhill, and I had tailwinds. So for the next 20 miles I pedaled about 20 mph.
Beyond Hartsel I picked up headwinds, so it took me seemingly forever to reach Current Creek Pass. Lots of climbing, by the way.
Then came a descent to write home about. It was 4,000 feet and a lot of it was steep. The brakes on the bike got a good workout. And the lower I descended, the hotter the day became.
I reached Canon City at 4:00 and stopped for the night.
Day 27, Colorado
August 11, 2010: From Canon City to Haswell. Miles pedaled: 125.
I started out at dawn, wearing only a T-shirt and shorts. The morning was warm and the sky clear.
Rather than follow the guide-map, I took Highway 50, as it looked much more direct. It had a wide shoulder, was 15 miles shorter, and climbed a whole lot less. I also picked up a tailwind that lasted throughout the day. So instead of reaching Pueblo at noon and fighting my way through it, I skirted the city to the north, and reached my intended highway on the other side at 9:00 am.
My parents wanted to visit while I was in Colorado, so they met me at a gas station c-store, and we had an enjoyable reunion. Then they wanted to follow me for a while. So with the tailwinds and the oh-so-gradual descent, they followed right behind at 20 mph for half the day. This Highway 96 is little used, and the locals are used to seeing people riding bikes, so a car traveling that slow didn't seem to be much of a problem.
We stopped at tiny cafes and stores, which big-city folks never seem to do, and met a bunch of friendly people. Then we ate lunch in the small town of Sugar City, and then it was time to say goodbye.
From there I continued making the miles, despite the heat (94 degrees).
I finished the day's riding at Haswell, at 5:00 pm, just after the c-store closed for the day. Time to dig into my supply of snacks. I set up camp in the city park, then a guy on a motorcycle pulled up and reported that he had seen my girlfriend 20 minutes back, and was concerned that she might not make it to here today. I said she's not traveling with me, I'm headed east. Two wheels, b-sharp. Whether traveling by motor or leg power, we tend to look out for each-other. We had a nice chat after that, then he sped away.
So I knew that my "girlfriend" would be arriving a little later. And sure enough, she pulled in and parked her bike nearby.
Kathryn was from from Massachusetts and was doing the TransAm with a Cape Cod start. She had been pedaling with two others, but had fallen behind with tire problems, since sorted out. We had a nice chat, then at dark I retired to my tarp and she pitched her tent nearby.
Day 28, Kansas
August 12, 2010: From Haswell to Leoti, Kansas. Miles pedaled: 100.6.
I don't use an alarm, not even a wristwatch. My mind knows when the dawn is coming. So half an hour before first light, I started packing my things and breaking camp. And I don't need a flashlight.
I wore my shells as protection from the mosquitoes, which were numerous at the park. The morning was warm and the sky full of stars, as I began pedaling down the road. I don't like to ride in the dark, not that I can't see, but any drivers don't like to see something strange moving in their headlights. It tends to freak them out. :)
With no supper the night before, I was hungry, so I rode with a will the 23 miles to the next town with food opportunities, a town called Eads. Once there I found a café and a c-store.
I like these small town cafes because the people who gather there tend to be friendly. While I was eating my oversized breakfast, a man and his wife came in, and sat at a big table with many chairs. But they did not sit next to each other, not even close. Strange, I thought. Then more people arrived and filled the chairs. This was a regular meeting place and everyone had his or her seat.
I also like to visit these small towns because they are so unlike Hollywood scripts. At the next one, Sheridan Lake, I was sitting outside a c-store enjoying a cold drink, when a guy on a motorcycle pulled to a stop, and ignoring me, went into the store acting all macho. I finished my drink and pedaled away. A while later, here comes the motorcycle. I gave a wave as he sped past, and he gave the biggest wave ever. On the TV people are rarely friendly to strangers. But out here among these small towns, the real world can be full of little surprises.
12 miles further came the town of Towner. This is a tiny town but I have been looking forward to it for the past week. Two miles beyond is the Kansas border. And for the person on a cross-country bicycle trip, the roads in these two states are as different as night and day. The roads in Kansas are so much more smooth.
Next came the town of Tribune, where I made another stop for cold drinks. Ditto the next one, Leoti. There the clerk at a c-store said the temperature was 105. The afternoon was yet early but I had my miles, and the sky was not looking good. So I hauled in to a motel. It was a good move, because I heard later that the next town was under a severe storm warning.
I cleaned my bike out back of the motel, degreasing and lubricating the chain and gears. Then I walked to a restaurant under a sky filled with dark and foreboding clouds. Fortunately the storm here didn't eventuate.
Day 29, Kansas
August 13, 2010: From Leoti to Rush Center. Miles pedaled: 114.
I left Leoti early (of course) and headed out into the great unknown. "Unknown" because I had not been here before. "Great" because these grasslands (Great Plains) are very beautiful in early morning, especially for someone like me who is not used to such expansive horizons that seem to go on forever. It's almost like being out at sea. But here we have the seas of wheat, the seas of corn, and the seas of pasture lands. And as the sun begins rising in the east, it bathes the seas in colors of pink and rose to match the warm golden hue of the clouds. Oh what a lovely, special time; and its that way every morning - for us early risers.
I was on such a roll that I rolled right through Scott City, at mile 25, without stopping. Then in another 24 miles I stopped for a snack at Dighton. Then 32 miles later I stopped at Ness City for cold drinks, because the day was growing hot. So far today I had tailwinds, so I was making the miles. But on this Friday the 13th that was about to change.
In another ten miles I stopped at Beeler, parked my bike next to a filling station, and got two flat tires. Slow leaks, that is; I didn't find out until after another mile down the road, in the blazing sun with no shade. To make a long story short, it took me two hours to make the repairs, for all sorts of reasons. And once I got back on the road, I was cooked and out of energy. And not only that, I was now bucking headwinds. So it was a slow bunch of miles to Rush Center.
This small town had not much to meet the eye, but I did find an empty utility garage in which to set down to rest in the shade, drink water and cool off. A cottontail rabbit sat on the other side of the dirt floor, watching me the whole time. the animal was so cute.
The gas station across the street sold cold sodas for 50 cents a can, but that was about it, in the way of refreshments. I bought two. Then I asked the lady attendant about a café, and she recommended the bar/restaurant across the street as the only option. Well you had to be there to believe it. The metal building looked old and unused, as if caught in a time zone. Outside it was completely non descript. I could not even find the right door. But inside it was a lively place, for the locals - good food and friendly folks.
I asked the waitress about camping, and she recommended the nearby city park. It was not much, and very close to someones 5th-wheel type mobile home. They guy was out front, so I asked him if it was OK to camp here, and he said "Sure, go ahead."
So I pitched my tarp and then patched the two inner tubes. To locate the leaks, I found an empty plastic drinks cup in the trashcan, that someone had thrown away, and I filled the cup with water from a nearby spigot. Then section at a time I dunked the inner tube in the cup to check for bubbles.
There was so much more that happened today, but with limited time to write I can only summarize the day's events. But that's why I enjoy these trips, they are brimming with interesting events. But today's experiences centered around people. I had interesting and lovely interactions with so many friendly people, all along the way today. It boggles the mind to discover what people are really like, at least in these more rural settings.
Miles pedaled today: 114
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