Global Voyage

A Story About Sailing Around the World

Ray & Jenny aboard the ketch Suka

3 years, 35,000 miles, Nov 1982 - Jan 1986

Ray & Jenny Jardine

Chapter 2: Marquesas Magnifique page 28 of 109

Constrained Aboard by the Wind

In the morning the wind began slowly backing to the north and rising to Force 3 or 4. Constrained aboard by a troublesome chop working into the bay, we prepared for departure in case the wind strengthened. But by late afternoon the anchorage calmed considerably, leaving us free and eager to venture ashore once again. Unfortunately the surf now bashed the shore so powerfully that a shore landing was out of the question.

photo

photo

Cleaning the hull at the waterline.

A Visit with the Natives

A local fishing skiff arrived and anchored nearby, and two Marquesan teenagers hollered over to us. They wanted to escort us ashore in return for a ride in our dinghy. Not that they minded the swim, as per their custom, we soon learned. Rather, they wanted to know whether we had any .22 cartridges, which we did not. It seems that in the interests of preserving the local wild goat population, the French government had outlawed public ownership of bullets.

The youths took our oars and paddled the four of us toward a set of concrete steps, inundated every few seconds in a heavy surge. After studying the wave sets carefully, at just the right moment they paddled furiously to the landing. Gleefully, we all jumped ashore, and the fellows quickly lifted the dinghy and ran for higher ground. Jenny and I followed, with the next wave crashing at our heels.

The fellows invited us into their house, and showed us their small hoard of .22 caliber shells. Since the ban, these had become treasured objects of personal affluence.

Another Trek

“Extended seafaring has a way of honing the voyager's senses.”

After the visit, Jenny and I set off on another trek. This time we followed a dirt road that climbed the hillside and led through capacious mango and coconut groves. Mangos were in season and the trees were drooping ponderously with the ripe fruit. Had the plantation owners been present, no doubt they would have allowed us to pick a few. But we were alone and did not wish to offend anyone by helping ourselves. The temptation was great, though, so we compromised by collecting a few fresher pieces of the hundreds lying about the ground in various states of decay. Considering that extended seafaring has a way of honing the voyager's senses, these juicy mangos tasted simply divine. But eating ground fruit is not recommended, we later learned, because of the risk of contracting parasites.

Returning to the dinghy well past sunset, we were glad to find a shore-side light bulb illuminating the surf-thrashed landing. Gingerly we placed the inflatable into the frothy, heaving surge; and held it at arm's length by its painter as it dropped into the next trough. After waiting for a lull in the oncoming surf, we leapt aboard and each paddled a single oar vigorously out to safer water.

Sitting the Night at Anchor Watch

Back aboard, we spent the night sitting at anchor watch. The wind had backed to the west, and now blew directly into the anchorage - bringing with it a hefty chop. Suka pitched and bucked the harder as the night progressed, until her chain began snubbing sharply at her bowsprit roller. In darkness I went forward and paid out more scope, and after much experimentation I fitted a half-inch nylon climbing rope, quadrupled and acting as a large shock absorber. This worked reasonably well. Sensibly, one would depart an exposed anchorage when the conditions become untenable, and in retrospect we should have. But being hesitant to depart in darkness, we hung on in the hope that first light would bring mitigated conditions.

The story has 109 pages. This is page 28.
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Page Links
GV 001: Title Page
GV 002: TOC
GV 003: Dedication
GV 004: Preface
GV 005: Prologue
GV 006: Beginnings
GV 007: Work Done
GV 008: Making Ready
GV 009: Departure
GV 010: Sailing Credentials
GV 011: First Lesson
GV 012: Sextant Navigation
GV 013: Safety Harness
GV 014: Murphy's law
GV 015: Spirit of Adventure
GV 016: Holding On
GV 017: First Big Storm
GV 018: Storm Intensified
GV 019: Rolling Violently
GV 020: Mizzen Sleeping Bag'sl
GV 021: Freeing the Propeller
GV 022: Visits by Birds
GV 023: Crossing the Doldrums
GV 024: Nearing First Landfall
GV 025: Land Ho
GV 026: Fatu Hiva
GV 027: Trek Inland
> GV 028: Anchor Watch
GV 029: Passage
GV 030: Hiva Oa
GV 031: Skin Diving Circus
GV 032: Almost Like a Jungle
GV 033: Polaris Missile
GV 034: Taiohaie Bay
GV 035: Cascade Hakaui
GV 036: Taipi Bay
GV 037: Cyclone Lisa
GV 038: Cyclone Nano
GV 039: Passage of Patience
GV 040: Tuamotu Archipelago
GV 041: Tahiti
GV 042: Cyclone Reva
GV 043: Secret Sharer
GV 044: Moorea
GV 045: Cyclone Veena
GV 046: Aftermath
GV 047: Good Weather in Papeete
GV 048: Huahine
GV 049: Raiatea
GV 050: BoraBora
GV 051: Rarotonga
GV 052: Tonga
GV 053: Fresh Air
GV 054: Tongan Feast
GV 055: Excursion to Maninita
GV 056: Mariner's Cave
GV 057: Fiji
GV 058: Ndravuni Island
GV 059: Mara Island
GV 060: Aneityum
GV 061: Noumea
GV 062: St Elmo's fire
GV 063: Breakwater Reef
GV 064: Bundaberg
GV 065: Life on the Burnett River
GV 066: Engine Sabotage
GV 067: Flying
GV 068: Aground in Round Hill Creek
GV 069: Gladstone Confinement
GV 070: Tropical Queensland
GV 071: Trip into Townsville
GV 072: Cairns Sojourn
GV 073: Cramped Cooktown
GV 074: Lizard Island
GV 075: The San Michelle
GV 076: Lost Mummy Cave
GV 077: Land's End
GV 078: Darwin
GV 079: Christmas Is
GV 080: Passage
GV 081: Cocos Keeling
GV 082: Crossing the Indian Ocean
GV 083: Rodriguez
GV 084: Mauritius
GV 085: Reunion Cirque de Mafate
GV 086: Reunion Cirque de Salazie
GV 087: Passage to Africa
GV 088: Kruger National Park
GV 089: Richards Bay
GV 090: Durban
GV 091: Port Elizabeth
GV 092: Cape Town
GV 093: Storm Passage
GV 094: St Helena
GV 095: Passage to Brazil
GV 096: Fortaleza
GV 097: Passage to Caribbean
GV 098: Bonaire
GV 099: Passage to Panama
GV 100: Panama
GV 101: Panama Canal
GV 102: Medidor
GV 103: Costa Rica
GV 104: Passage to Acapulco
GV 105: Acapulco to Cabo
GV 106: Baja
GV 107: Home Port
GV 108: In Retrospect
GV 109: Next Time
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