Ray Jardine's
Climbing Log

This page is dedicated to my climbing partners
AL, Adrain, Allan Macintosh, Andreas Maure, Barb Eastman, Barb Euser, Barry Corbet, Barry Vaugn, Ben Read, Bert Redmond, Betsy White, Bill Critchlow, Bill Forrest, Bill McFarland, Bill Price, Bill Putnam, Bill Roose, Bill Westbay, Bill Wood, Bob Ashworth, Bob Fin, Bob Godfrey, Bob Williams, Cal Folsom, Carl Mattson, Cathy Dermitzakas, Chick Holtkamp, Chris Ballinger, Chris Nelson, Clive, Craig Cutler, D. D., Dale Bard, Dan, Dan McClure, Daniel Bolster, Dave Altman, Dave Gregory, Dave Hitchcock, Dave Jones, Dave Reynolds, Dave Yerian, David, Dean Pascall, Dick Sanderson, Don Briggs, Don R., Doug Snively, Duncan Fergeson, Earl Wiggins, Ed Barry, Elaine Brook, Eric Perlman, Frank Brown III, Gene White, George Hurley, George M., Glen Pol, Grady Matthews, Harry Frischman, Hugh Burton, Ian Wade, Jeff, Jeff Louie, Jenny, Jerry Ferent, Jim Bridwell, Jim Donini, Jim Dunn, Jim Reading, Joe & John Jenishon, Joe Bryant, Joe Herbst, Joe Keoughan, Joel Merrin, John Borstelmann, John Dill, John Lakey, John Larson, John Yablonski, Kerry Kilgore, Kim Smitz, Kris Walker, Kurt, Lamberto, Larry Bruce, Larry Fiddler, Larry Hamilton, Lars, Laura, Leonard Sanders, Linda, Lou Dawson, Lyn Noble, Mark Bostwick, Mark Chapman, Mark Clemmins, Mark Hesse, Mark Moore, Mark Vallance, Martin Wragg, Matt, Matt Donahoe, Mike & Dusty, Mike Comb, Mike Yokell, Nick Longland, Pat Ament, Paul Cowan, Paul Olephant, Paula Crenshaw, Peter Chesko, Peter Lev, Peter Young, Phil Gleason, Randy Clark, Richard Jack, Richard Kiefer, Richard Sanderson, Richard Sequig, Richard Van Pelt, Rick Anderson, Rick Cashner, Rick Sylvester, Rik Rieder, Rod, Roger & Pete, Roger Briggs, Ron Kauk, Ron Skelton, Roy, Sandi, Sebilla Hethtel, Seto, Sheri, Solo, Steve Bean, Steve Holcom, Steve Pomerance, Steve Smith, Steve Sutton, Susie, Terrance, Thom Nephew, Vanessa, Vern Clevenger, Walt Frickey, Werner Braun.
Thank you one and all!

Back to the Climbing Years

All  First or First Free  After-climb workouts  Partners
Yosemite  Diamond 
5.10  5.11  5.12 
1977 

If you climbed with me, select your name from the following list:
 
Let me hear from you

dateLocationRouteRatingPartnersDescription
1963-SummerTetonsBeginner rock climbing class
Barry CorbetMy friend Grady and I worked at West Thumb. He had taken the Tetons climbing class at Exum's school, and he urged me to take it as well. So we hitch-hiked south to the Tetons and I took the beginner's class and Grady took the Intermediate. Instructor Barry Corbet had me lead the 4th class belay practice slab, in order to belay the next person up. Ironically, then, I led the first pitch I ever climbed. However, the subsequent rappel scared me so much that I swore off climbing forever. That soon changed, and I took the Intermediate class the next week.
1963-08TetonsStorm & Ice
Grady MatthewsAfter taking the classes, Grady and I started climbing a few routes in the Tetons. Our goal was to climb the Grand Teton. The first few climbs were to build experience.
1963-08TetonsSymmetry Spire Durrance Rt.
II 5.4Grady MatthewsAnd one other partner (name?). This was an all day climb. The route was excellent with good rock and exposure and the technical difficulties were just right for our level of experience. Near the summit we were running out of time and I grew impatient with the third person because he was slowing down. So I un-roped and continued 3rd class. Got a good chewing out for that. I tied back in, and we finished the route.
1963-08-12&14TetonsMt. Teewinot
Grady Matthews1-bivy. Summit at 2:00 pm. We wanted to climb the Grand Teton, but the rangers wouldn't let us. They suggested Mt. Teewinot as a safer alternative. Near the top we wandered off route and found ourselves on technical rock. On one unprotected lead I ran out of rope and asked Grady to start climbing behind me. Running out of strength on a final traverse, I came close to peeling. When I reached a ledge and started belaying Grady proper, I had a powerful vision type experience.
1964: While in college I took the summer off and spent a lot of time climbing around Colorado Springs, finishing with a trip to the Tetons and Yosemite Valley. From there I went back to school.
1964-SummerGarden of the GodsS. Ridge White Twin
Richard KieferMany routes in the Garden including these
1964-SummerGarden of the GodsS. Ridge White Twin
Richard Kiefer
1964-SummerGarden of the GodsS. Gate Tyrolean
Richard KieferLate evening, after work, we rigged a Tyrolean between two points.
1964-SummerGarden of the GodsThe Thumb
Richard Kiefer
1964-SummerGarden of the GodsMontizuma N. Ridge
Richard KieferLong lead-out with only one point of protection. Smashed thumb while hammering my one piton.
1964-SummerChyenne Canyonvarious routes
Also climbed several routes in Chyenne Canyon.
1964-08TetonsKoven Rt., Mt. Owens
Richard Kieferand two others (names?). After the climb we spent a few evenings around the climber's community campfire, drinking Teton tea and enjoying the rounds of singing.
1964-09Yosemite ValleyMonday Morning Slab - Right Side
Richard KieferRichard and I spent two weeks in Yosemite Valley, climbing and bouldering.
1964-09Yosemite ValleyLunch Ledge
5.6Richard KieferWashington Column
1965: While enrolled in college, I attended a climbing class that met every weekend for a few months.
1965-SummerStony Pt. CaliforniaSierra Club climbing class
While enrolled in college I attended a climbing class that met every weekend for a few months.
1967: Graduating university I moved to Denver and started working as an aerospace engineer, but also climbing most evenings and most weekends, mostly in mountains west of Denver with a few forays into Boulder and Eldorado Canyons.
1967-05Morrison, ColoradoSeveral new routes
Solo, Sandi, Richard SandersonIncluding Recall Crack, The Pendulum Rt, the Aid Crack (5.9) etc.
1967-06N. Turkey Creek, COMini-Diamond aid diagonal
5.6 A32 short pitches with sling belay
1967-07N. Turkey CreekThe Flake Rt.
A3+SandiSandi belaying. 3 attempts and 3 rippers with final success.
1967-08-19TetonsN. Face Grand Teton
V 5.7Peter LevAug 19-21, 2 bivies (top of burgschrund & Guide's hut) Summit at 6:30 pm. My one and only guided climb.
1967-OctBoulder CanyonThe Practice Rock
A1
1967-OctEldorado CanyonBastille Crack
5.6+Richard Van PeltMy first climb in Eldorado Canyon. Richard led all pitches
1967-10Eldorado CanyonT2, first 2 pitches
5.8 A2Richard Van Pelt, Steve HolcomFirst 2 pitches. I lead the second.
1967-Oct-26Eldorado CanyonRuper 1-3
1967-NovEldorado CanyonSupremacy Slab
With top rope. Many times.
1967-NovBoulder CanyonCountry Club Crack
II 5.6 A2Richard Van PeltWearing a t-shirt in blizzard conditions, I belay Richard in slings just under roof for 2.5 hours on the long aid pitch.
1968-01ColoradoCAWM School
During the winters of 67-68 & 68-69 I instruct for the Colorado Alpine Winter Mountaineering School.
1968:
1968-MayBoulderFirst Flatiron - North Arete
I 5.0
1968-MayBoulderMaiden - North Face
II 5.4
1968-MarEldorado CanyonRedguard Route
II 5.6+
1968-MarBoulder CanyonCountry Club Crack
II 5.6 A2Richard Van Pelt
1968-MarEldorado CanyonDirty Deed
5.5+
1968-MarEldorado CanyonThe West Chimney
I, 5.5
1968-AprEldorado CanyonBastille Crack
5.6+
1968-05-00Flatirons1st Flatiron, N. Arete
5.3
1968-05-00Flatirons3rd Flatiron, E. Face
5.4
1968-05-00FlatironsMaiden, N. Face
5.5
1968-MayEldorado CanyonWest Butress of Bastille
III 5.9Richard Van Pelt
1968-05-00Yosemite ValleyFirst pitch Half Dome
Richard Van PeltI led the first pitch then we both decide we are not ready for a wall climb of this magnitude. So we retreat.
1968-Jun-23Flatirons1st Flatiron, Baker's Way
5.4
1968-EarlyEldorado CanyonAttempt Rosey Crucifiction
Richard Van PeltFirst pitch
1968-EarlyEldorado CanyonAttempt Rosey Crucifiction (second time)
Richard Van PeltFirst pitch
1968-Jun-08Eldorado CanyonWind Ridge
5.5Climbed this several times that year
1968-Jun-15Eldorado CanyonWind Ridge
5.5
1968-Jun-15Eldorado CanyonRedguard Route, var
II 5.6+
1968-Jun-18Eldorado CanyonBastille Crack
5.6+1 hr 23 min.
1968-Jun-26Eldorado CanyonBastille Crack
5.6+
1968-07-01Longs Peak, ColoradoAttempt Diamond
Dick Sanderson, Richard Van PeltSix tries to reach the base of the Diamond. On the 6th try we met Walt Frickie, who had also been trying. He and I decided to join forces.
1968-09-07DiamondD7, Diamond
V 5.7 A3Walt FrickeyDiamond climb #1. (my first of 7 diamond climbs) D7 on Longs Peak, (V 5.7 A3) Sept 7-10, 1968 with Walt Frickey. 4 bivies: hut, Broadway, top of 4th, & Kieners Ledges after climbing until 2 A.M. All pitons. 8th asc. Approached via N. Chimney.
1968-10-01Eldorado CanyonWest Butress of Bastille
III 5.9Joel MerrinMy leads. Joel forgets to finish tying his knot, and his belay rope nearly falls off his harness while he's lybacking the second pitch
1968-Oct-11Eldorado CanyonWest Butress of Bastille
III 5.9George Hurley
1968-Oct-20Eldorado CanyonWest Butress of Bastille
III 5.9Dick SandersonVicky bystanding
1968-Oct-27Eldorado CanyonWest Butress of Bastille
III 5.9Walt Frickey, Richard Van Pelt
1968-NovEldorado CanyonVertigo
II 5.7 A1Did this route many times.
1968-Nov-02Eldorado CanyonT2
IV 5.9Richard Van Pelt
1968-EarlyEldorado CanyonBastille Crack
Larry Fiddler
1968-WinterColoradoCAWM School
During the winters of 67-68 & 68-69 I instruct for the Colorado Alpine Winter Mountaineering School.
1969 Colorado: MUCH bouldering on Flagstaff, Running Mesa Trail, etc.
1969-01-00Eldorado CanyonCanary Pass, 2 pitches
5.6 A3SoloDid this many times during the Winter of 68-69, usually with Sandi belaying from the ground.
1969-FebEldorado CanyonCanary Pass
III 5.8 A4Walt Frickey
1969-03-01Boulder CanyonThe Practice Roof
A2+
1969-MarEldorado CanyonPsycho, var.
III 5.9 A2+var to meadows
1969-MarBoulder CanyonCountry Club Crack
II 5.6 A2Richard Van Pelt
1969-03Denver
Richard Van Pelt was a friend of Bill Forrest. Richard takes me to Bill's house and introduces us.
1969-03-22Eldorado CanyonWind Ridge
5.4Kris WalkerKris was one of my students in the Colorado Alpine Winter Mountaineering School, both years. After the school closed, I invited Kris to climb in Eldorado. We climbed Wind Ridge, 5.4, his first rock climb.
1969-03-22Eldorado CanyonAttempt Naked Edge
Kris WalkerKris' 2nd rock climb. One bivy in hammocks. Blizzard conditions force a retreat.
1969-AprEldorado CanyonRecon
5.5+
1969-01-00Eldorado CanyonCanary Pass
III 5.6 A3+Kris Walker
1969-01-00Eldorado CanyonAttempt West Buttress of Bastille
A3Kris WalkerClimbing at night, a tiny wired Copperhead breaks, I take a ripper and tear up my hands. We rappel to the ground and spend the night in hammocks, in the bat cave across the creek.
1969-AprEldorado CanyonCalypso
5.5+
1969-AprLumpy Ridge, Estes ParkDirect Turnkorner, Sundance Buttress
5.8 A3Kris WalkerThe first 2 pitches.
1969-Apr-04Eldorado CanyonNaked Edge
IV 5.9 A3Kris WalkerFinished the climb, after a long struggle on the next-to-last pitch. I needed bongs (wide chocks had not yet been invented). Met Laton Kor on the way down. He had climbed the Ruper
1969-Apr-18Eldorado CanyonYellow Spur
III 5.9Kris Walker
1969-Apr-18Eldorado CanyonBastille Crack
II 5.61 hr
1969-Apr-18Eldorado CanyonWest Buttress, Bastille
III 5.9George Hurley, Kris Walker
1969-00-00DenverForrest Mountaineering
Bill Forrest invents Foxheads and copperheads. I help manufacture them for commercial sale.
1969-Apr-28Eldorado CanyonYellow Spur
III 5.9Kris Walker2.25 hr
1969-Apr-30Eldorado CanyonT2
III+ 5.92.5 hr
1969-MayBoulder Maiden - North Face
II 5.4
1969-MayDevil's Tower, WyomingHollywood & Vine
III 5.8 A1Joel MerrinFirst all-nut ascent of Devil's Tower.
1969-MayLumpy Ridge, Estes ParkDirect Turnkorner, Sundance Buttress
IV 5.8 A3George Hurley, Kris Walker1st ascent, after Kris and I had climbed the first 2 pitches. (George later reported contracting a tick disease from that day)
1969-05-01FlatironsMaiden, N. Face
5.5
1969-MayEldorado CanyonThe Anthill
II 5.5
1969-MayLumpy Ridge, Estes ParkHurley's Tree, the Book
III 5.7 A3Joel Merrin
1969-May-23Eldorado CanyonWest Buttress, Bastille
III 5.9Kris Walker
1969-JunEldorado CanyonBastille Crack
II 5.6
1969-06-01Eldorado CanyonOriginal Sidetrack
I 5.3Solo
1969-JunEldorado CanyonWest Face, Bastille
II 5.9
1969-Jun-04Eldorado CanyonWest Buttress, Bastille
III 5.9
1969-Jun-24Eldorado CanyonNaked Edge up to lead 4
Solo
1969-07-01Flatirons3rd Flatiron, E. Face
5.4
1969-07-04PeruHuascaran
Gene White, Betsy White, Mark Bostwick, John Larson1969 July 4 - 26, ascent of Nevado Huascaran, 22,205' Peru, with Gene and Elizabeth (Betsy) White, Mark Boswick, John Larson. 9 days on the mountain. Before that we climbed in the Quilcayhuanca, Chinchey area.
1969-AugEldorado CanyonKing's X
5.7 A3+
1969-AugEldorado CanyonGenesis
III 5.6 A4Bill Forrest
1969-AugEldorado CanyonLe Toit & Yellow Flower
III 5.8 A3Bill Forrest1st ascent Yellow Flower. 1 bivy (for practice). Aid crack which parallels 4th pitch of Ruper to the right.
1969-08-01Halletts Pk.2nd Buttress
III 5.8Bill Forrest
1969-08-01Crestone Pk. COSanderson's Couloir
III 5.7Dick Sanderson1st ascent.
1969-AugEldorado CanyonRuper 4,5
5.7Kris Walker
1969-08-09DiamondDiamond climb #2: Yellow Wall
V 5.8 A3Bill ForrestYellow Wall (V, 5.8, A3), via N. Chimney. 3 bivies, 5th ascent.
1969-SepEldorado CanyonT2
III+ 5.9
1969-SepEldorado CanyonNaked Edge
IV 5.9 A3Kris WalkerPhotographed by Bob Godfrey (ropes hanging down, pigeons flying) Climbing magazine etc.
1969-NovEldorado CanyonJules Verne (Var Pitch 1&2)
IV 5.8 A4Kris Walker1 bivy (for practice). 3rd ascent
1969-NovEldorado CanyonTagger
5.9
1969-NovEldorado CanyonThe Grand Giraffe
Up to ramp.
1969-11-01Eldorado CanyonOld Bad Aid Crack
A4
1969-NovEldorado CanyonC'est la Vie
III 5.8 A3Kris Walkerwith Traverse.
1969-DecEldorado CanyonRosy Crucifiction
II 5.8 A3Kris Walker
1969-DecEldorado CanyonGuenese
II+ 5.7 A3
1969-12-01Boulder CanyonWhittle Wall
5.7
1969-DecEldorado CanyonSuper Slab leads 1 & 2
1969-DecEldorado CanyonThe Buldge
5.6+
1969-DecBoulder CanyonThe Cozeyhang
5.5
1969-DecEldorado CanyonMickey Mouse Nailup
II 5.7 A3
1969-WinterBoulderWorkouts
During the snowy winter of 60-70, Joel Merrin, Richard Sequig and I meet at the CU gym three evenings a week for pullup workouts. Our goal each evening was a hundred per person. This was lot of fun, and we laughed a lot, even though the workouts themselves were pretty serious.
1970:
1970-JanEldorado CanyonWisdom
III 5.7 A3Kris Walker
1970-JanEldorado CanyonWisdom
III 5.7 A3Pitch 1 & var
1970-01-00Eldorado CanyonGuenese
III 5.9 A3Kris Walker
1970-01-00Eldorado CanyonRincon first 2 pitches
5.8 A3SoloKris and I do parallel solos
1970-01-30ColoradoStart climbing full time
2-Kris WalkerKris wanted to quit college, I wanted to quit my engineering job at Martin Marietta. We decided to climb full time with the goal of doing every route in the Eldorado section of Pat Ament's "High Over Boulder" guidebook.
1970-FebEldorado CanyonDessert
III 5.8Bill Forrest
1970-FebEldorado CanyonGreen Spur
Solo
1970-FebEldorado CanyonChockstone Chimney
5.6
1970-FebEldorado CanyonGreat Zot
III 5.7
1970-FebEldorado CanyonAnthill Direct
III 5.7Kris Walker
1970-FebEldorado CanyonSidetrack (with direct start)
II 5.6 A3Kris Walker
1970-FebEldorado CanyonKloeberdanz
III 5.9 A3Kris Walker
1970-FebEldorado CanyonRover
III 5.9 A3+Kris Walker
1970-FebEldorado CanyonLe Void
III 5.8 A4Bill Forrest
1970-FebEldorado CanyonGrand Giraffe (nailed over Art's Spire)
III 5.8 A2Ramp to top
1970-FebEldorado CanyonGreen Slab
II 5.7
1970-FebEldorado CanyonSuper Slab
III 5.8 A4Ian WadeIan worked at Martin Marietta, also, which is where we met.
1970-FebEldorado CanyonGrandmother's Challenge
III 5.7 A3Kris Walker
1970-MarEldorado CanyonSlimy Spoon
5.8
1970-MarEldorado CanyonThe Greaser
5.7
1970-MarEldorado CanyonThe Serpent
III 5.8 A3Kris Walker
1970-MarEldorado CanyonPsychosis
II 5.8 A2+From the journal: Good route
1970-MarEldorado CanyonNeurosis
II 5.8 A2+
1970-MarEldorado CanyonGrand Course
II 5.7 A2From the journal: Good route
1970-MarEldorado CanyonHot Spur
II 5.7
1970-MarEldorado CanyonRoof Wall
II 5.7 A2+
1970-MarLumpy Ridge, Estes ParkHurley's Tree, the Book
III 5.7 A3Kris Walker
1970-MarEldorado CanyonDiving Board
IV 5.8 A3Kris Walker4th ascent
1970-MarEldorado CanyonSouth Face of Tower 1
II 5.7 A3
1970-MarEldorado CanyonPigeon Crack
II 5.7 A2Kris WalkerNailup in winter conditions
1970-03-01Eldorado CanyonApple Strudel
III 5.8 A4Up to final 15'
1970-MarEldorado Canyonthe Black Walk
III 5.8 A4Kris Walker3rd ascent
1970-AprEldorado CanyonItalian Arete
III 5.8Ian Wade
1970-04-01Eldorado CanyonLong John Wall var
II 5.8 A2+
1970-AprEldorado CanyonRincon
III 5.8 A3Kris Walker
1970-051970 Spring Yosemite
1970-05-10Yosemite ValleyLunch Ledge
5.6KurtWashington's Column
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyRoyal Arches
III 5.7 A0Kris Walker, Kurt
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyWashington Column - South Face
V 5.8 A3Kris Walker1 bivy. My first Yosemite big wall climb.
1970-05-14Yosemite ValleyChouinard-Herbert
V 5.8 A2Kris Walker1 bivy. Sentinel Rock
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyAttempt nose (7 pitches)
Kris WalkerHaul bag starts tearing, forcing a retreat
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyAfter Seven
5.8Thom Nephew
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyMoby Dick - Center
5.10aThom Nephew
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyWest Quarter Dome - North Face
V 5.8 A3Thom NephewN. Face Quarter Dome
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyAfter Six
5.7Sandi
1970-05-01Yosemite ValleyHarry Daley Route
5.8SandiHarry Daily, Monday Morning Slab
1970-##1970 Summer
1970-JunEldorado CanyonCalypso
5.5+
1970-JunLumpy Ridge, Estes ParkFat City, the Book
III 5.7 A2Bill Forrest1st ascent
1970-JunEldorado CanyonExhibit A
III 5.7 A2Don Briggs
1970-JunEldorado CanyonWendigo
III 5.8 A3Ian Wade
1970-JunLumpy Ridge, Estes Parkthe Guillotine
III 5.8 A1Bill Forrest
1970-08-01DiamondBlack Dagger
V,5.8, A3Ian WadeDiamond climb #3: Black Dagger via rappel. 3rd ascent, but traversed off Keners Ledge. Late August.
1970-07-01New MexicoShiprock standard rt.
III 5.7 A1Gene White, John Larson, Barb EuserIt was Gene's idea to climb Shiprock, and he enlisted me as the technical person :) I don't remember the route being difficult, but I understand it was closed to climbing shortly thereafter.
1970-08-01Eldorado CanyonAnthill
5.5
1970-SepEldorado CanyonPsuedo Sidetrack
5.3+
1970-SepEldorado CanyonThe West Ridge Route
I, 5.7
1970-08-01Eldorado CanyonEvangaline
III 5.7 A3+Ian Wade
1970-091970 Autumn Yosemite
1970-09-01Yosemite ValleyLa Escuela
II A1Bill ForrestTraining for Nose
1970-10-06Yosemite ValleyNose
VI 5.8 A3Bill ForrestThe Nose ~25th asc. 3 fixed, 4 bivies: Stovelegs, El Cap Tower, Camp IV, Camp VI. My first El Cap climb.
1970-WinterBoulder
Winter gym workouts. One day I do 1,000 pull ups and members of the CU gymnsatic team give me a team-colored sweat shirt with a big "1" on it.
1971:
1971-02-01Eldorado CanyonGuenese
III 5.7+ A3Bill Forrest
1971-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkHurley's Tree, the Book
III 5.7 A3Larry Bruce
1971-03-01Eldorado CanyonRuper
III 5.7
1971-04-01Eldorado CanyonRuper 1-3
II 5.7Sandi
1971-04-01Eldorado CanyonYellow Spur
III 5.9Kris WalkerFree
1971-05-01Eldorado CanyonAnthill
II 5.5
1971-051971 Spring Yosemite
1971-05-01Yosemite ValleyRoyal Arches
III 5.7 A0Bill McFarland
1971-05-01Yosemite ValleyEl Capitan - West Face
VI 5.9 A4Ian WadeWest Face, 3 bivies: Base, El Cap Arms, & top of 15th. 5th Ascent. My second El Cap climb.
1971-05-01Yosemite ValleySlack, with Sacherer start
III 5.8 A1Ian Wade
1971-05-01Yosemite ValleyPatio Pinnacle - Regular Route
III 5.9Harry FrischmanFellow Outward Bound instructor. Our claim to fame as partners was that we climbed the wrong mountain twice, finding ourselves stranded on the same summit, first on a recon and then with our students. It was pretty funny.
1971-05-01Yosemite ValleyNutcracker
II 5.8Bert Redmond(climbed a variation to the route) Fellow Outward Bound instructor. Funny story: Bert actually saved my butt the previous summer. I was climbing a steep couloir on Holy Cross mountain with a few select students, and near the top came to a rock head-wall. Problem was, I had left my hardware in camp (forgot to pack it.) I led the pitch on improvised gear to the half way point, and was having trouble going farther because of rope drag. (no carabineers, just a few threads with the rope passing behind them.) All of a sudden I hear Bert calling me from above. He had hiked up the mountain's back side. So he top-roped us all up.
1971-061971 Summer Colorado
1971-06-05UtahTitan, Finger of Fate
V 5.8 A2Bill Forrest7th ascent. 1 day ascent
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkPerelandra, the Book
III 5.7 A2Larry Bruce1st ascent
1971-06-05Halletts Pk.3rd Buttress, Halletts
IV 5.6Bill Forrest
1971-06-05Boulder CanyonBailey's Overhang
5.7
1971-06-05Boulder CanyonThe Owl, var.
5.7
1971-06-05Boulder CanyonEast Slab, var.
5.4
1971-06-05Boulder CanyonThe Brick Wall
5.9
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkJ-Crack, Book
III 5.7 A2Larry Bruce
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkCrack of Fear
III 5.9 A2Bill Forrest
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTighter Squeeze
5.7+Leonard Sanders
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkNuts, Book End
Larry Bruce1st ascent
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkOverdose
III 5.8+Bill Forrest1st ascent
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkClassic Crack
I 5.8+Bill Forrest1st ascent. Same day as above
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkDouble Chimney
II 5.8Bill ForrestSame day as above
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkThe tooth
I 5.7Same day as above. 1 day, 9 pitches
1971-06-05Rocky Mt. ParkNorth Ridge, Spearhead
II 5.7+Larry Bruce
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkCentral Chimney, twin Owls
II 5.7+Larry Bruce
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkWolf's Tooth
I 5.7+
1971-06-05Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTwister
III 5.8 A2Bill Forrest
1971-08-01DiamondDiamond climb #5: D-1
V 5.9 A4Bill ForrestD1 (V 5.9, A4) 9th ascent. 3 bivies: Boulderfield, Bivy Cave, top of 7th.
1971-08-01DiamondDiamond climb #4: Grand Traverse
V 5.7 A3Bill ForrestThe Grand Traverse (V 5.7, A3) 2nd ascent. 3 bivies: Boulderfield, 3rd, & 6th.
1971-101971 Autumn Yosemite: I catch a lift to Yosemite with Steve Wunsch, Jim Donini, and Larry Hamilton. My goal for the fall season was to climb the Salathe Wall. I could not find an aid partner, so started free climbing instead, and had so much fun that I pretty much quit aid climbing.
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyLa Cosita - Left
5.7Larry Hamilton
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyBishop's Terrace
5.8Bill Westbay
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyMoby Dick - Center
5.10aBill Westbay(twice)
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleySteck-Salathe
V 5.9 A3Bill Westbay1 bivy just below top of flying Buttress
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleySacherer Cracker
5.10aBill WestbayL. side
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyMoby Dick - Left
5.9Bill Westbay
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyChingando
5.10aSteve Sutton
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyGoodrich Pinnacle - Left Side
III 5.9Ben Read
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyJump for Joy
5.9 RAdrain
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyKor-Beck
IV 5.9Ben Read
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyCommitment
III 5.9Ben Read
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleySelaginella
III 5.8Ben ReadCommitment & Selaginella same day
1971-10-24Yosemite ValleySentinel Rock - West Face
VI 5.9 A3Ben Read2 bivies: base & 9th ~11th ascent. From summit register: "1971-10-25 West Face, Ben Read."
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyJamcrack Route
5.9Ben Read(Sunnyside Jam)
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyPhantom Pinnacle - Regular Route
III 5.9Phil Gleason
1971-10-01Yosemite ValleyCrack of Doom
IV 5.10aPhil GleasonMy first 5.10 off-witdh. Met Lloyd Price while hitchhiking back. Note: Back then, there was no "5.10a, b, c, d or 5.11. The routing system went from 5.0 to 5.10.
1972:
1972-01-00Split RockFantasia, Split Rock
5.8Joel MerrinSplit Rock is west of Lyons on Highway 36.
1972-01-00Split RockFantasia
Kris Walker
1972-01-00Split RockEdge of Night
5.9 with one piece of aid
1972-01-00Split RockF1-R 5.9; F2-R 5.8-9; F3-R 5.7
Mark Hesse
1972-01-00Split RockF1-R
5.9Larry Hamilton
1972-03-01Eldorado CanyonT2
Mike Yokell
1972-03-01Split RockHands
5.10-Mark Hesse
1972-03-01Boulder CanyonBy Gully
5.9Roger Briggs
1972-03-01Boulder CanyonCoffin Crack
5.9Roger Briggs
1972-03-01Boulder CanyonTongo
5.10Mark Hesse
1972-03-01Boulder CanyonWest Slot
5.8Mark Hesse
1972-03-01Boulder CanyonSkunk Crack
5.8
1972-03-01Eldorado CanyonYellow Spur
5.10Mark Hesse
1972-03-01Eldorado CanyonYellow Spur
5.10Mike YokellOver bolts
1972-03-01Eldorado CanyonT2
III 5.9Richard Sequig
1972-03-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTwister
5.1Larry Hamilton
1972-03-01Eldorado CanyonGrand Giraffe
III 5.8Richard Sequig
1972-04-01Eldorado CanyonGrand Course
5.9Larry Bruce
1972-04-01Eldorado CanyonAthletes Feat
III 5.10Mark Hesse
1972-04-01Eldorado CanyonGreen Spur with Green Slab dir finish
III 5.9Roger Briggs, Larry Bruce
1972-04-01Boulder CanyonJackson's Wall Direct
II 5.9Roger Briggs
1972-04-01Boulder CanyonCrack of Desperation
5.9Roger Briggs
1972-04-01Boulder CanyonFinal Exam
5.10Mark Hesse
1972-04-01Eldorado CanyonHair City
5.9Bill Roose
1972-04-01Eldorado CanyonGrandmother's Challenge
II 5.10Mark Hesse
1972-04-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkCrack of Fear & Twister
5.10cJim Dunn
1972-051972 Spring Yosemite
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyReed's Pinnacle - Direct p3
5.10aDan McClure
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
5.10c TRDan McClureReed's Triple Direct & Generator Crack same day
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyUp to Half Dollar on Salathe
5.10 A2Dan McClure1 bivy
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyThe Hourglass - Right Side
5.10aJim Donini
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyReed's Pinnacle - Left Side
5.10aDan McClure
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyBongs Away - Center
5.10aDan McClureReed's Pinnacle L. Side & Bongs Away - Center same day
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyAbsolutely Free - Right Side
5.10a R/XDan McClure
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleySecret Storm
5.10aDan McClure
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyEdge of Night
5.10cDan McClure, Doug SnivelyBilly, Mark, Doug, and Dan rode their bicycles from Colorado to the Valley.
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyThe Slack - Left Side
5.10bDoug Snively
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyMiddle Cathedral Rock - North Buttress
V 5.10aRik Rieder5 hours
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyMiddle Cathedral Rock - Direct North Buttress
V 5.10bRik RiederDNB 3rd free ascent. 12 hours
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyStone Groove
5.10bRoger Briggs
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyMiddle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress - regular
IV 5.9 A0 (aid on bolts)Roger BriggsE. Buttress Middle
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyLost Arrow Chimney
V 5.10aRik Rieder7 hours
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyGollum - Left Side
5.10aMark Clemmins, Jim Donini, Pat Ament2nd ascent
1972-05-01Yosemite ValleyParadise Lost
IV 5.10aRik Rieder1st ascent. 1 bivy top of 8th. Located on Middle Rock.
1972-071972 Summer Colorado
1972-07-01Eldorado CanyonYellow Spur
5.10-Mark Vallance
1972-07-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkSicilian Defence
5.8Mark Vallance2nd ascent
1972-07-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkHurley's Tree
5.9Mark Vallance1st free ascent of entire crack
1972-07-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes Parkpart of Orange Julius
5.9Bill Putnam
1972-08-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTurnkorner
IV 5.10Roger Briggs2nd free ascent.
1972-07-01DiamondDiamond climb #7: Curving Vine
V 5.8 A3Roger BriggsCurving Vine, 4th ascent. 1 bivy at base.
1972-08-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTiger's Tooth
5.10Larry Bruce
1972-08-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkGollum's Arch
5.10Mark Hesse, Jim Dunn3rd free ascent
1972-08-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTwister
5.10Jim Dunn
1972-07-01DiamondDiamond climb #6: Jack of Diamonds
V 5.9 A4Jim DunnJack of Diamonds (V, 5.9, A4) 2nd ascent. 2 bivies: 3rd & top.
1972-09-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTiger's Tooth & Twister
5.10, 5.10Mike Yokell
1972-09-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTwister
5.10Larry Bruce
1972-09-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkCrack of Fear
5.10Larry Bruce
1972-09-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTwister
5.10
1972-09-01Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkCrack of Fear
5.10Roger Briggs
1972-09-01Boulder CanyonCountry Club 1 fall
5.xLarry Bruce
1972-04-01Boulder CanyonGates of Eden
5.9Larry Bruce
1972-09-01Boulder CanyonCountry Club
5.11Larry Bruce6th free ascent
1972-09-01Eldorado Canyon3 pitches Naked Edge & finish T2
5.10+Mark Hesse
1972-09-01Boulder CanyonUmph Slot
5.10Larry Bruce
1972-09-01WyomingHorn's Mother - Vedavwoo
5.10 (not clean)Larry Bruce
1972-09-01Wyomingthe Rapture - Vedavwoo
5.10Larry Bruce1st ascent
1972-09-01Boulder CanyonSuper Squeeze
5.10Larry Bruce
1972-09-01Boulder CanyonAthlete's Feat
5.10Mike Yokell
1972-10-20BoulderClimbing Instructor, University of Colorado, Boulder
Worked as climbing instructor for University of Colorado, teaching their only Advanced class. Did this for two years.
1972-101972 Autumn Yosemite
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyCrack of Despair
5.10aJoe Herbst
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
5.10c TRJoe HerbstCrack of Despair & Generator Crack same day
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyVendetta
5.10bJoe Herbst
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyEnglish Breakfast Crack
5.10cMark Hesse
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyAngel's Approach
5.9Mark Hesse, Larry BruceBack then, we considered this route 5.10
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyCookie - Left
5.10aBill Westbay, Doug Snively
1972-10-00Yosemite ValleyIndependence - Left Side
5.10Jim Dunn
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyStovelegs, El Cap
V 5.10Rick Sylvester5th free ascent of the Stovelegs.
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bGeorge Hurley
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
5.10
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyCristina
5.11bGeorge Hurley
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyDoggie Diversions
5.9George HurleyCristina & Doggie Diversions same day
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyGoodrich to Rim, via the Hinterland
V 5.9George Hurley1st ascent of Glacier Pt Apron to Rim via Goodrich. 2nd or 3rd ascent of Hinterland. Bivy in U-shaped bowl. (Goodrich to the Oasis, and The Hinterland - Oasis to rim)
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyAttempt Childhood's End
5.10Rik Rieder8' below roof on 1st pitch.
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyMidterm
5.10bSandiSandi belaying
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleySteppin' Out
5.10dRik Rieder#7, fixed pin, 2 chockstones, bolt, 6" I-beam, 5" nut, 4" nut.
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyAttempt Rt. side Folley
Rik RiederPitches 1 & 2 freed (5.9), 3rd gardened
1972-10-01Yosemite Valleycleaning Rt. side Folley
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyIndependence - Left Side
5.10Rick Sylvester
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyRixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney
5.10aRik Rieder
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyChopper
5.10cSandiSandi belaying (Chopper flake) 4th ascent.
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyL. side Childhood's End
5.8Lou Dawson
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyTwilight Zone
5.10dLou Dawson4th or 5th ascent
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyIndependence Pinnacle - Center
5.10dLou Dawson
1972-10-01Yosemite ValleyNew Dimensions
5.11aRik Rieder5th ascent. 1st all nut ascent. Located on Arch Rock.
1973:
1973-001972-1973 Winter Washington
1973-00-02WashingtonLeavenworth Crack, Icicle Creek
5.9Thom Nephew, Cal Folsom
1973-001973 Spring Yosemite
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyQuickie Quizzes
3 x 5.10Eric PerlmanQuickie Quizzes & Generator Crack Twice, same day
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
3 x 5.10c TREric PerlmanQuickie Quizzes & Generator Crack Twice
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyTwinkie
5.10cChris Nelson1st ascent. Located on Cookie Cliff, left of Outer Limits.
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyPeter Left
5.10bMark Hesse
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyCaptain Crunch
5.11bChris Nelson1st ascent
1973-06-00Yosemite ValleyJam Session
5.10bMatt Donahoe
1973-06-00Yosemite ValleyMeat Grinder
5.10cDale Bard
1973-06-00Yosemite ValleyThe Flake
5.10bDale Bard1st ascent. aka "Sparkles." Located on Knobby Wall
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyMidterm
5.10bIan Wade
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyEntrance Exam
5.9Ian WadeMidterm & Entrance Exam same day
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyCookie - Left
5.10aIan Wade
1973-03-00Yosemite ValleyAhab
5.10bMark Chapman
1973-03-00Yosemite ValleyCream
5.11aLarry Bruce3rd ascent
1973-03-00Yosemite ValleySecret Storm
5.10aKris Walker
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyHigher Cathedral Spire - East Corner
5.10aIan Wade(E. corner Higher Spire) 3rd or 4th ascent
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyYosemite Point Buttress - Direct
IV 5.9Ian Wade, Kris WalkerDirect YPB (Direct Yosemite Point Buttress)
1973-00-00Yosemite Valley3D Reeds
5.10Ian Wade, Chris Nelson
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyBongs Away - Center
5.10aIan Wade, Chris Nelson3D Reeds & Center Bongs Away same day
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyLower Cathedral Rock - East Buttress
IV 5.10cIan WadeE. Buttress Lower Rock
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyHigher Cathedral Rock - Northeast Buttress
IV 5.9Ed Barry
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyRoyal Arches
III 5.7 A0Craig Cutler, Jeff4th'ed with the two tension swings
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyWild Thing
IV 5.10cIan Wade1st ascent. Rixon's (center rt on The Folley)
1973-00-00Yosemite Valley1st 3 pitches Salathe
5.10 A1Chris Nelson3 pins aid
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyMoby Dick - Center
5.10aCraig Cutler
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyAbsolutely Free - Center Route
5.9Ian Wade
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
5.10c TRCraig Cutler
1973-00-00Yosemite Valley1st pitch Salathe
5.10Ian Wade
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleySalathe Wall
VI, 5.10, A3Ian WadeSalathe Wall 2 bivies: Hollow Flake Ledge & the Block, and one on top. My third El Cap climb. I did the free, Ian did the aid.
1973-001973 Summer Colorado, during a break between OB classes.
1973-06-00Boulder CanyonBy Gulley
5.9Barry Vaugn, Peter Young
1973-00-00Eldorado CanyonW. Buttress Bastille
5.9Barry Vaugn
1973-06-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkTwister
5.10Barry Vaugn(my eighth time)
1973-001973 Late Summer Colorado, after OB
1973-06-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkFat City
N.F.Seto
1973-06-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkThe 44
N.F.George Hurley
1973-00-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkHurley's Tree & Cicilian Defence
5.9. 5.8
1973-06-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkCrack of Fear
5.10Dan McClure, Doug Snively
1973-00-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkGollum's Arch
5.10Dan McClure
1973-00-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkWolf's Tooth
5.8Dan McClure
1973-001973 Autumn Yosemite
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyAbsolutely Free - Left Side
5.9Randy Clark
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyMidterm
2 x 5.10bRandy Clarktwice
1973-10-00Yosemite Valley3D Reeds
5.10Randy Clark
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyPeter Pan
5.10Randy Clark
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
5.10c TRRandy ClarkPeter Pan & Generator Crack same day.
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Basketcase
Vern ClevengerIncredibly brushy approach to Basket Dome. We didn't reach the climb. Rather than backtrack through same the same brush, we repelled to the Valley.
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyPatio Pinnacle - Right Side
5.10Randy Clark5.8 ?
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyChingando
5.10aVern Clevenger
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyGoldrush
5.11bVern ClevengerChingando & Goldrush, same day
1973-00-00Yosemite Valley2nd pitch 3D, twice
2 x 5.9Hugh Burton
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyPenny-Nickle Arete
5.10Hugh BurtonOn the lead, Hugh knocked a baseball sized rock down, and it hit the 4" wide tree I was belaying behind.
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Straightjacket
Chris Nelson
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyPharaoh's Beard - Regular Route
5.9Chris Nelson
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyMidterm
5.10bLou Dawson, Rick Sylvester
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyMoby Dick - Center
5.10aLou Dawson, Richard Jack
1973-00-00Yosemite ValleyAhab
2 x 5.10bLou Dawson, Richard JackMoby Dick - Center, L. Side Ahab twice, same day
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyChingando
5.10aLou Dawson
1973-10-00Yosemite ValleyHenley Quits
5.10aLou DawsonChingando & Henley Quits, same day
1973-11-16BoulderCU
Worked as climbing instructor for University of Colorado, teaching their only Advanced class. Did this for two years.
1974:
1974-061974 Spring Colorado
1974-03-00Eldorado CanyonRuper
5.7Jerry Ferent
1974-03-00Grand Course
5.9Mike Yokell
1974-06-00Lumpy Ridge, Estes ParkCrack of Fear
5.10Larry Bruce6th time.
1974-03-00Eldorado CanyonGrand Giraffe
5.8Richard Sequig
1974-00-00Boulder CanyonAthlete's Feat
5.10Roger Briggs
1974-03-00Eldorado CanyonGrand Giraffe
5.8Kris Walker, Bob Godfrey
1974-03-00Split RockFantasia 8 times
5.8Testing Friends
1974-00-00Boulder CanyonAthlete's Feat 1&2 only
5.10Mike Yokell, Bob Godfrey
1974-001974 Spring Yosemite
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyReed's Triple Direct
5.10Lou Dawson, Richard Jack
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyBongs Away - Left
5.8Lou Dawson, Richard Jack
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyChingando
5.10aLou Dawson, Richard JackReeds Triple direct, L. side Bongs Away, Chingando. same day.
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyMidterm
2 x 5.10bLou Dawson(Twice) This was the first Yosemite climb with Friends.
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
5.10c TRLou DawsonMidterm & Generator Crack, same day
1974-10-00Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
3 x 5.10c TRThree times
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyOuter Limits with 3rd pitch Twilight Zone finish, 1st on L. side Reed's Pinnacle
5.10, 5.9Duncan Fergeson
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleyNothing
5.9Lou Dawson, Richard JackL. of Application
1974-10-00Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bLou Dawson
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dAndreas Maure
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cAndreas MaureCatchy, Lunatic Fringe same day
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleyRixon's Pinnacle - West Face
IV 5.10cLou Dawson
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleySecret Storm
5.10aLou Dawson
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyAhab
2 x 5.10bLou Dawson(Twice)
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleySacherer Cracker
5.10aLou Dawson
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyMoby Dick - Center
5.10aLou DawsonAhab twice, Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick Center, same day.
1974-10-00Yosemite ValleyNew Dimensions
5.11a
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleyStovelegs to El Cap Tower
V 5.10Lou DawsonECT at 12:30 a.m.
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleyNabisco Wall
5.11aAndreas Maurewith Bev tower start
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Last Word
5.10Rick Sylvester
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleyReed's Pinnacle - Left Side
5.10a, 5.9Ian Wade(L. Side Reeds) & 2nd on 3D
1974-10-00Yosemite ValleySteck-Salathe
V 5.9Ian Wade10 hours
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleyMiddle Cathedral Rock - North Buttress
V 5.10aThom Nephew10 hours
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyEdge of Night
5.10cLou Dawson
1974-03-00Yosemite ValleyChopper
5.10cLou Dawson
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyEdge of Night
5.10cIan Wade
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cLou Dawson
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyStone Groove
5.10bLou DawsonLunatic Fringe, Stone Groove, same day
1974-10-00Yosemite ValleyMidterm
5.10bIan Wade
1974-10-00Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bIan Wade, Larry Bruce
1974-00-00Yosemite ValleyNose
VI 5.10 A2Lou Dawson, Kris WalkerEl Cap. Afternoon deluge forces bivy at Camp V, finish in 20 hours total climbing time, cutting previous record of 3 days in half.
1975:
1975-001975 Spring Colorado
1975-00-00Eldorado CanyonRuper
5.7Kris Walker
1975-03-00Eldorado CanyonGrand Course
5.9
1975-02-00Eldorado CanyonAnthill direct
5.8
1975-00-00Split RockFantasia
5.8
1975-00-00Split RockF-1R (5.9), F-2R (5.9), F-3R (5.8)
Kris Walker
1975-00-00Eldorado CanyonGrand Giraffe (5.8)
Paula CrenshawStudent from my advanced climbing class Colorado University
1975-03-00Variation to Rewritten
5.8+Steve Pomerance
1975-03-00Var. to Vertigo
5.9Kris Walker
1975-031975 Spring Yosemite. 1975-03-13 Drive from CO to Yosemite with Doninni, Hesse & Wunsch
1975-03-25Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bMark Hesse
1975-03-27Yosemite ValleyReeds 3D
5.10Mark HesseAfter 7 operations on his hand, Mark is climbing amazingly well. (He had crushed his hand on a machine at work.)
1975-03-28Yosemite ValleyEdge of Night
5.10cMark Hesse
1975-03-29Yosemite ValleyGang Bang
5.10aChris Nelson& etc. 1st ascent. Goldrush area, rt of Siberian. I called this route "Gang Bang" because it was more like an assault with five other climbers (me in the lead), and also to go along with "Siberian SS" theme.
1975-03-29Yosemite ValleyHand Job
5.10aChris NelsonFrom journal: on a rock beneath Reed's Pinnacle, put up 4 new routes: two 5.9s and two 5.10s, all short but good cracks.
1975-03-29Yosemite ValleyCathode Ray
5.10Cathy Dermitzakas1st ascent
1975-04-08Yosemite ValleyAnathema
5.10bJohn DillFrustrating trying to get a nut in, and it won't fit and I strain and get tired and finally come down, and all the time I have those beautiful Friends in my locker because I can't reveal them yet.
1975-04-09Yosemite ValleyJo-Jo
5.10John Dill, Chris Nelson
1975-04-10Yosemite ValleyThe Hourglass - Left Side
5.11a RVern ClevengerVern's lead.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyCramming, 1st pitch N.D. t/r
5.10dJohn DillI show John the Friends. He says "A glimpse into the future."
1975-05-01Yosemite Valley1st pitch New D., Midterm t/r
5.10
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyVoyage
5.10cVern Clevenger1st ascent. Arch Rock. Starts at the end of the 2nd pitch of New Dimensions. Thin finger.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyCramming
5.10dVern ClevengerFriends allow Vern and I to climb all sorts of routes in rain and snow.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyThis and That
5.10cVern ClevengerCramming, This & That, same day.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyAnticipation
5.11bVern Clevenger& 4th pitch N.D. t/r
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyQuickie Quizzes
5.10aVern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite Valley10.96
5.10dVern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyGoldrush
5.11bVern Clevenger1096, Goldrush same day.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cKris Walker
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyCookie - Left
5.10aKris WalkerLunatic Fringe, L.side Cookie same day.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyFinger Licking'
5.10dVern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyVanishing Point
2 x 5.10dKris Walkertwice
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyAnathema
5.10bKris WalkerVanishing Point twice, the Anathema, same day
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleySacherer Cracker
5.10aKris Walker
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyAhab
5.10aKris WalkerSacherer Cracker, Ahab, same day
1975-05-01Yosemite Valley1st 3 pitches W. Buttress El Cap
Vern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyLeanie Meanie
5.11bVern Clevengerin 1975 was called Leaning Meanie
1975-05-01Yosemite Valleythe Enema
5.11bVern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyWaverly wafer
5.10cBill Westbay
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyHairline
5.11bVern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyIndubious Battle
5.11aKris Walker1st ascent. Base of El Cap, west side.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyMental Block
5.10cVern Clevenger, Kris Walker3rd ascent
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyVanishing Point
5.10dKris Walker
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyJo-Jo
2 x 5.10cKris WalkerVanishing Point, Jo-Jo twice, same day.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyRiver Boulder - East Side
3 x 5.11dThree times
1975-05-01Yosemite Valley4th pitch N.D. twice
5.11
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyGripper, 4th N.D. 3 times
5.10bKris Walker
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyThe Folly - Right Side
5.10dKris Walker3rd free ascent. aka The Good Book
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dPaul Cowan
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyBishop's Jam
5.8Linda
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyCentral Pillar of Frenzy
5.9Paul Cowan, Linda
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyFive and Dime
5.10dThom Nephew
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyGoldrush
5.11bThom NephewFive & Dime, Goldrush same say.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyBanana Dreams
5.10aVern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyFive and Dime
5.10dVern ClevengerBanana Dreams, Five & Dime same day.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyAstroman
V 5.11cVern Clevenger1 bivy. 2nd ascent
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyOlga's Trick
5.10dVern Clevenger
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cVern ClevengerOlga's Trick, Lunatic Fringe same day.
1975-05-01Yosemite ValleyRoyal Arches
III 5.11I was free-soloing, and on the second traverse I leaned far over, in order to reach a tiny hold, and failed to notice that the hold was wet. My fingers slipped off, and I became airborne. However, I just managed to grip an even smaller hold (5.11) on the way past. That was a close one. No more free soloing for me.
1975-051975 Summer Yosemite: On a week's break between OB classes, I travel to CA to visit Lynda.
1975-00-00Touloumne, YosemiteGreat White Book
5.7Linda
1975-001975 Autumn Yosemite
1975-10-00Yosemite Valley2nd pitch 3D Reeds
5.9Linda
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyNotch Route
5.10b RPaul CowanPulpit Rock
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyMoby Dick - Center
5.9aPaul Cowan
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyAhab
5.10aPaul CowanMoby Dick - Center & Ahab same day.
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyBetsy Pinnacle
5.9Paul Cowan
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleySacherer Cracker
5.10aPaul Cowan
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyThe Sermon
5.10bRick SylvesterPulpit Rock
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyBridalveil East
5.10cRick SylvesterMidget Chimney.
1975-10-00Yosemite Valley1st 3 pitches Salathe
5.10c, 5.8, 5.11Rick Sylvester
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyHotline
IV 5.10c, A1Rick SylvesterRope got jammed on the last rappel, and had to climb back up to free it. Finished the decent to the river in the dark, thrashing through the poison oak.
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyEl Capitan - East Buttress
IV 5.10 A1Rick Sylvester
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyPower Failure
III 5.11aMark Vallance, Linda1st ascent. Washington Column.
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyJesu Joy
II 5.10cRick Sylvester1st ascent. Named after the Bach Cantata. First called it "An Ode to Joy"
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyDwindling Energy
III 5.11bMark Vallance1st ascent. Washington Column.
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10aMark Vallance& 4th pitch New D. t/r
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyThe Fang
5.10bLou Dawson1st ascent. Washington Column.
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyOverhang Overpass
5.11cVern Clevenger3rd ascent
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyArch Rock Circuit
5.11Vern Clevenger(Gripper 5.10a, 4th New D. t/r, Quickie Quizzes)
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyMidterm
5.10bVern Clevenger
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleySidetrack
5.11aVern Clevenger2nd ascent. Midterm & Sidetrack same day.
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleySixth Heaven
5.10bFrank Brown III1st ascent. Chapel Wall - Far Right. Frank named the route "6th Heaven" because I used a 6-hex on the roof.
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyAxis
5.10dVern Clevenger2nd or 3rd ascent
1975-00-00Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.11 A1Linda1st ascent but used aid. Oct 75.
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyJamcrack Route
5.9George M., Bob AshworthSunnyside Bench Jam
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyLazy Bum
5.10dGeorge M., Bob AshworthSunnyside Bench Jam & Lazy Bum same day
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyArrowhead Arete
5.9Matt Donahoe
1975-10-00Yosemite ValleyArch Rock Circuit
5.11Vern Clevenger(Gripper 5.10a, 4th New D. t/r, Quickie Quizzes)
1976:
1976-001976 Spring Yosemite
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dJim Dunn, Earl Wiggins
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyOuter Limits
5.10bJim Dunn, Earl Wiggins
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyMeat Grinder
5.10cJim Dunn, Earl WigginsCatchy, Outer Limits, Meat Grinder same day.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cMark Moore(twice)
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyLittle Wing
5.10dMark Moore
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyNutcracker
5.8Linda
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleySteppin' Out
5.10dRon Kauk
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyMental Block
5.10cRon Kauk
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyChockstone Chimney
IV 5.8Mark Moore1st free. Ribbon Creek Area.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyGripper, 1st & 4th pitches New D. t/r
5.10bMark Moore
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyRt & Center Cookie
2 x 5.10Mark Moore
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAnathema
5.10bMark MooreRt & Center Cookie, Anathema same day.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.10cRon Kauk, Bob Ashworth
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyWheat thin
5.10cRon Kauk, Bob Ashworth
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyButterballs t/r
Ron Kauk, Bob AshworthWaverly Wafer, Wheat thin & Butterballs t/r same day.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyCleaning Crimson Cringe
SoloRemoving the dirt from the crack, and wire-brushing the left wall.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Cringe
Ron Kauk
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyNottingham Castle
II 5.10aMark Moore1st ascent. In the Ribbon Falls area.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyRoyal Cornpad
II 5.10aLinda1st ascent. Royal Arches.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Cringe
Ron Kauk
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.10cJohn Yablonski
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyButterballs
5.11cJohn YablonskiWaverly Wafer & Butterballs same day.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyThe Lionheart
5.10bMark Moore1st ascent. I called it "Dayspring III" but maybe Mark changed the name; OK by me.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAnticipation
5.11bJohn Yablonski
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleySiberian Swarm Screw
5.10aDave Hitchcock
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Childhood's End
John Yablonski
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Cringe
Linda
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleySilver Platter
5.10cJohn Lakey1st ascent. Rt on plate; Rt of Porcelean Wall
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Cringe
Mark Moore
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Cringe
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Crimson Cringe
Linda
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Cringe
2nd pitch free at 5.12John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Cringe
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
III 5.12aJohn Lakey1st free ascent. Located in the Cascade Falls area, just right of Fish Crack. A left-leaning crack which begins after 50 feet of face climbing up a knobby wall.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyChildhood's End
II 5.11aJohn Lakey1st ascent. Located on The Folly, up the hill and right of Rixon's
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyDwindling Energy
5.11bJohn Lakey+ 1 pitch
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyDinner Ledge & cleaning the Odyssey
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyDinner Ledge
5.10aLinda
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyGravity's Rainbow
II 5.10cJohn Lakey1st ascent. Porcelain Wall, John found this route and named it after the book by Thomas Pynchon. He said there was a rainbow in the sky at the time.
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleyworking on the Odyssey
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleyworking on the Odyssey
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyThe Wedge
II 5.11bJohn Lakey1st ascent. Located on Pat + Jack Pinnacle - Upper Right Tier.
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleythe Odyssey to Dinner Ledge
IV 5.11John Lakey1st ascent
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyOdyssey - Dinner Ledge to B.F. Ledge
IV 5.11John Lakey1st ascent
1976-001976 Autumn Yosemite
1976-00-00Yosemite Valley1st & 2nd pitches Lunch Ledge Dir
5.10bLindaFirst free of 1st & 2nd pitches Lunch Ledge Dir
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleySpace Case
III 5.10cLinda1st ascent. Located on Washington's Column. Originally an aid route called Lunch Ledge Direct, by Chouinard and Reed in 1961.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyReality Check
III 5.10cLinda1st ascent. This is a major crack system just left of Plumbline, Elephant Rock. Short 5.9 hand and fist up large blocks (belay at base of 20'' off-width), continue around short roof and up vertical hand crack to small alcove, belay at alcove. Equip: 1&2 Fr, medium & large nuts.
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleythe Odyssey
V 5.11dJohn Lakey1st ascent. Located on Washington Column.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyTrundling Juan
III 5.10bJohn Lakey1st ascent. (Located on the east side Elephant Rock) This multi-pitch route had loose rocks everywhere, and would have been dangerous to climb without first cleaning from above. So a few days before our first ascent we repelled the route from the top. At every stance during the repel, John lowered off on a secondary safety rope while I belayed him. Doing this, he dislodged what seemed like tons of loose rocks. After we had cleaned the route, we had no problems on the first ascent from the ground up. However, there was one big flake on the lower section that refused to budge, even though we both worked on it, driving pitons behind it, then taking them out. We had to leave that flake there, and then during our ascent had to be careful while climbing around it.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAiding and cleaning Supernova
John Lakey, Ian Wade
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyTriple Direct
VI 5.9 A3Ian Wade, John LakeyEl Cap (VI, 5.9, A3) 2.5 days. I do all the free, Ian does the aid, and John does the hauling. My forth El Cap climb.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog Flyer
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyAttempt hangdog Flyer
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleywork on Hangdog Flyer
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyRapppelled and cleaned Supernova Wall
John Lakey
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleySupernova
III 5.11aJohn Lakey1st ascent. (to top of finger crack) Galactic Wall.
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleywork on Hangdog Flyer
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleywork on Hangdog Flyer
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleywork on Hangdog Flyer
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleywork on Hangdog Flyer
1976-00-00Yosemite Valleywork on Hangdog Flyer
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cJohn Lakey1st ascent. Located on the western side of the Royal Arches area, and left of 10.96. A right leaning crack which joins 10.96 at its top. Equip: lots of #2's. My use of the word "Hangdog" was not intended to mean hanging on the pro. Instead I meant to describe the sensation of being "intimidated, then defeated" (as per the English definition of the word "hangdog") due to fatigue - then suddenly loosing grip and becoming a "Flier." I used the word "flier" because in those days I flew my hang glider to the Valley many of those early mornings.
1976-00-00Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
2 x 5.10cBarb Eastman(twice)
1975-031975 Summer Oregon
1976-06-30Eugene~100 leads on the Columns
During break between OB classes
1976-08Did not go to Yosemite Fall 1976
1977
1977-081977 Spring Yosemite
1977-02-15Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
AL
1977-02-16Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
Linda
1977-02-19Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-02-24Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-02-25Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-02-28Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-02Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-04Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-05Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-07Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-08Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-11Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-12Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aJohn LakeyI lead with fixed pro
1977-03-15Yosemite ValleySkunk rap & Clean
John LakeyLeft of Tales of Power in the Separate Reality area.
1977-03-18Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-19Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-20Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-21Yosemite ValleySkunk, clean & work on start
John Lakey
1977-03-22Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
John Lakey
1977-03-23Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aJohn LakeyNothing fixed. My 1st free ascent. (Vally's first non-yo-yoing ascent.)
1977-03-25Yosemite ValleyAttempt Obscure Destiny
John LakeyL. of Tales of Power
1977-03-27Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aJohn Lakey
1977-03-28Yosemite ValleyAttempt Obscure Destiny
John Lakey
1977-03-29Yosemite ValleyAttempt Obscure Destiny
John Lakey
1977-04-02Yosemite ValleyObscure Destiny
II 5.11aJohn Lakey1st ascent. Separate Reality area, left of Tales of Power.
1977-04-03Yosemite ValleySkunk Crack
II 5.11bJohn Lakey1st ascent. Separate Reality area, left of Tales of Power.
1977-04-04Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-05Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-07Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-08Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-09Yosemite Valleyrap Phoenix wall to base
John Lakey
1977-04-10Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
Linda
1977-04-11Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
Linda
1977-04-13Yosemite Valleyclean Phoenix
Solo
1977-04-15Yosemite Valleywork on Phoenix
Linda
1977-04-19Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-20Yosemite Valleywork on Phoenix
1977-04-21Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-23Yosemite Valleywork on Phoenix
1977-04-24Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-25Yosemite Valleywork on Phoenix
1977-04-26Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-04-29Yosemite ValleyPhoenix with 3 rests
John Lakey
1977-04-30Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
5.11d
1977-04-30Yosemite ValleyCookie Caves
Short Circuit, Cookie Caves. Rain
1977-05-02Yosemite Valleywork on Owl Roof
1977-05-03Yosemite ValleyWork on Owl Roof
John LakeyThis was the day John led it, upside down. 1st ascent
1977-05-04Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix
1977-05-05Yosemite ValleyOwl Roof
5.12John LakeyMy 1st ascent. (2013: I ran across an account of the history of Yosemite Free Climbing saying I wasn't aware that Dale and Ron had already climbed the Owl Roof free, before John's and my ascents. Who ever wrote that was mistaken. I lived in the Valley with Dale and Ron, and met them almost every day, in the Camp 4 bouldering areas in the late afternoons and elsewhere around the valley. We were good friends and we knew what each other was climbing almost every day. They had climbed the Owl Roof before, but the first time they climbed it free was 1977-05-07 and this was the third free ascent, a few days after John and me.)
1977-05-07Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix
John LakeyDave H. photographing. Rain
1977-05-08Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix
John Lakey
1977-05-09Yosemite ValleyFreed Phoenix from upper belay
5.12Our "upper belay" was a hanging belay below the traverse. After that we came back and starting working on the lower part, and named the route the mythological "Phoenix" because we started over from scratch and made the route more difficult.
1977-05-13Yosemite Valleyclean lower Phoneix
1977-05-14Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix II
John Lakey
1977-05-16Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix II
John Lakey
1977-05-17Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix II
John Lakey
1977-05-18Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix II
John LakeyGeorge M. photographing
1977-05-19Yosemite ValleyWork on Phoenix II
John Lakey
1977-05-20Yosemite ValleyThe Phoenix
5.13aJohn Lakey1st ascent. Located on upper left wall of the Cascade Falls amphitheater. Approach via rappell. Can be seen by driving up 120, parking on the first turnout to the left after passing the Owl, and walking down the hill a short distance.
1977-05-24Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Bill PriceI couldn't lead, but followed OK
1977-05-26Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aVern Clevenger
1977-05-27Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe w/ 1 hang
Vern ClevengerGeorge M. photographing
1977-05-30Yosemite ValleyAttempt Dog's Woof
Dave Yerian
1977-05-31Yosemite ValleyAttempt Dog's Woof
Dave Yerian
1977-06-01Yosemite ValleyDog's Woof
5.12b *Dave Yerian1st ascent. Wawona Tunnel - West End
1977-06-02Yosemite Valleyreconnoiter Rostrum Roof
1977-06-03Yosemite ValleyWork on Rostrum Roof
Linda
1977-06-04Yosemite ValleyWork on Rostrum Roof
Linda
1977-06-06Yosemite ValleyWork on Rostrum Roof
LindaThe days are getting hot, so we have to start climbing at daybreak.
1977-06-07Yosemite ValleyRostrum Roof
5.12bLinda1st free ascent. Kauk and Bachar had freed the Rostrum up to the roof pitch, then they climbed a system to the right, to the top. Linda and I rappelled from the top and freed the roof and final crack of the Rostrum route.
1977-06-08Yosemite ValleyTales of Power
5.12brap Phoenix. End of season
1977-06Trip to the UK to help develop Friends for manufacture.
1977-06-15EnglandPuppet
5.8Chatsworth Edge, date at Chatsworth approx
1977-06-15EnglandSentinel
n/fChatsworth Edge
1977-06-15EnglandEmerald Crack
n/fChatsworth Edge
1977-06-18EnglandStrand
5.9Anglessey, Wales sea cliffs
1977-06-18EnglandHesterisis
5.10dpossible 1st free ascent
1977-06-19EnglandSupercrack
5.10cMartin Wragg2nd free ascent
1977-06-21EnglandL. Unconcorable
5.10aStannage Edge
1977-06-21EnglandRt. Unconcorable
5.9Stannage Edge
1977-06-21EnglandFlying Buttress Dir.
5.9+Stannage Edge
1977-06-22EnglandMedusa
5.9Stoney Middleton, Limestone
1977-06-22EnglandDead Banana
5.10aStoney Middleton, Limestone
1977-06-22EnglandAttempt Bitterfingers
5.11?Stoney Middleton, Limestone
1977-06-23EnglandPeapod
5.9Curber Edge
1977-06-23EnglandInsanity
5.10dCurber Edge
1977-06-23Englandl'Horla
5.9 or 5.10aCurber Edge
1977-06-24EnglandLion's Corner House
5.8Lyn NobleMillstone, grit
1977-06-24EnglandOxford Street w/1 pt
Lyn NobleMillstone, grit
1977-06-24EnglandGreat North Road
5.8+Lyn NobleMillstone, grit
1977-06-25EnglandRegents Street
5.10cMark VallanceMillstone, grit
1977-06-25EnglandOxford Street
5.10dMark Vallance2nd free ascent
1977-06-25EnglandBond Street
5.8+Mark VallanceMillstone, grit
1977-06-26EnglandGoliath's Groove
5.8CliveStannage Edge
1977-06-26EnglandWall End Slab dir
5.8CliveStannage Edge
1977-06-26EnglandQuietus
5.10cCliveStannage Edge
1977-06-26EnglandCount's Buttress
5.9CliveStannage Edge
1977-06-26EnglandWorked on roof L. of Baw's Crawl
CliveStannage Edge
1977-06-26Englandnew Rt 20 yards L. of Baw's Crawl
5.9Clive1st ascent
1977-06-28EnglandTerraza Crack
5.9Mark VallanceStannage-Wall End
1977-06-28EnglandAttempt Harvest
Mark VallanceStannage-Wall End
1977-06-29EnglandTwicker
5.10bJim ReadingMillstone
1977-07-02EnglandSuicide Wall
5a, 5.8Jim ReadingCratcliffe Tor
1977-07-02EnglandFernhill
5c, 5.10bJim ReadingCratcliffe Tor
1977-07-02England5-finger exercise
5c, 5.10bJim ReadingCratcliffe Tor
1977-07-02EnglandRequiem
5c, 5.10cJim ReadingCratcliffe Tor
1977-07-03EnglandThe Sloth (twice)
5.8LindaLinda followed. The Roaches
1977-07-03EnglandWalleroo
5.10aMark Vallanceunprotected!
1977-07-03Englandthe Crack of Gloom
5.10aThe Roaches
1977-07-04EnglandBilly Whizz
5.10bLawerencefield
1977-07-05EnglandEmerald crack
5.10cChatsworth
1977-07-06EnglandAttempt roof crack
Baldstones
1977-07-07EnglandCenotaph Corner
5.8 or 5.9Mark Vallance, LindaDinas Cromlech
1977-07-08EnglandNovember
5.9+Mark VallanceCloggy
1977-07-08EnglandScorpio
5.9Mark VallanceCloggy
1977-07-09Englandpin Cushion
5.10aTremadoc
1977-07-10EnglandSentinel Crack (twice)
5.10dChatsworth & Gardoms
1977-07-10EnglandRt. Hand pillar Crack
5.10aRoger & PetePulling Friends from under my shirt, stuffing them deep in the crack, down-climbing to retrieve Friend. Strange leader! But we had fun climbing.
1977-07-10EnglandCentral Crack
5.9Roger & PeteChatsworth & Gardoms
1977-07-10EnglandGardom's Unconquerable
5.8Roger & PeteChatsworth & Gardoms
1977-07-10EnglandHearse Arete dir.
5.9Roger & PeteChatsworth & Gardoms
1977-07-12EnglandCave Crack
5.10cFroggatt Edge
1977-07-12EnglandBig crack
5.10bFroggatt Edge
1977-07-12EnglandBrown's Eliminate
5.8Mark VallanceNo pro. Mark's lead
1977-07-12EnglandValkyrie
5.8+Froggatt Edge
1977-07-13EnglandEmbankment Rt 4
5cMillstone
1977-07-13EnglandEmbankment Rt 3
5bMillstone
1977-07-13EnglandEmbankment Rt 1
5cMillstone
1977-07-14EnglandBrown Corner
4c, 5.9Stoney Middleton
1977-07-14EnglandJasper
5c, 5.10cStoney Middleton
1977-07-15EnglandScoop Wall
5b+, 5.10bStoney Middleton
1977-07-16EnglandChecquer's Crack
5b, 5.10aFrogatt Edge
1977-07-16EnglandStiff Cheese
5c, 5.10cFrogatt Edge
1977-07-16EnglandChecquer's Buttress
5a, 5.8Frogatt Edge
1977-07-16EnglandDeadbay Crack
5a, 5.9Frogatt Edge
1977-07-17EnglandM1
5.10a, 5.9High Tor
1977-07-19EnglandThe Rasp
5c, 5.10bHaggar Tor
1977-07-19EnglandFlute of Hope dir
5c, 5.10c,dHaggar Tor
1977-07-21Englandthe Grooves
5.8Cyrn Las
1977-07-22EnglandPterradactyl
5.8Craig Y Forwen
1977-07-22EnglandAttempt Great Wall
Craig Y Forwen
1977-07-24EnglandForked Lightning Crack
5.9 or 10aHeptomstall, Yorkshire
1977-07-24EnglandThin Red Line
5.10bHeptomstall, Yorkshire
1977-07-24EnglandDemarara
5.10aHeptomstall, Yorkshire
1977-07-24EnglandSenility
5.8Heptomstall, Yorkshire
1977-07-26EnglandGates of mordor
5.10aMillstone
1977-07-26EnglandBrimstone
5.10bMillstone
1977-07-27EnglandAttempt Brown's Roof
Stoney Middleton
1977-07-30EnglandBachelors Left-Hand (twice)
5a, 5.8Hen Cloud
1977-07-30EnglandDelstree
5a, 5.9Hen Cloud
1977-07-30EnglandHen Cloud Eliminate
5c, 5.9Hen Cloud
1977-07-30EnglandEncouragement (twice)
5b, 5.10aHen Cloud
1977-07-31EnglandOrang Outang
5b, 5.10bDave GregoryStannage Edge
1977-07-31EnglandTerraza Crack & Harvest
5.9, 5.11aDave GregoryStannage Edge
1977-07-31England90% of Buffoon
Dave GregoryStannage Edge
1977-07-31EnglandZapple
5a, 5.9Yarncliffe
1977-07-31EnglandFallpipe
4, 5.7Yarncliffe
1977-08-02EnglandAttempt roof
Baldstones
1977-08-02EnglandRamshaw Crack
6a, 5.10aRamshaw
1977-08-03Englandthe Arete
5b, 5.9Tintwistle Knarr Quarry
1977-08-03EnglandKershaw's krackers (twice)
5.10cTintwistle Knarr Quarry
1977-08-03EnglandPoteen
5.10aTintwistle Knarr Quarry
1977-08-03England?
5.10cTintwistle Knarr Quarry
1977-08-04EnglandAttempt roof
Baldstones
1977-08-06EnglandInlern & Eastern hammer
5.10dGimmer Crag, Lake District
1977-08-07EnglandGimmer String
5.9Scafell, East Buttress
1977-08-07EnglandPhoenix
5.9, 5.10aPitches 1 & 2, then a new finish up the r. hand arete
1977-08-08EnglandBaldstones Roof
5.11cBaldstones, 1st ascent
1977-08-09EnglandSirplum
Cheedale
1977-08-11England?
Ramshaw
1977-08-12EnglandAttempt London Wall
Millstone. Sandbaged. Mark suggested this route, and drove us to it, but just happened to "forget" the needed small nuts. (He removed them from our gear bags before leaving his home). And it just happened to be the day before I was to fly back to the US. (To me, climbing was just climbing; but to many British climbers, it was sometimes a matter of national pride, and they don't want to see foreigners bagging their hardest routes. But it was all good fun, and I enjoyed the British climbing, people and the culture very much.
1977-081977 Autumn did not go to Yosemite
1978:
1978-02-23Milwaukee, ORStart of Jardine Enterprises
First person in the US to buy Friends was the customs import agent handling the first shipment into the US. He happened to be a climber.
1978-031978 February: Went to Yosemite too early, and was plagued by snow and rain. So after climbing just one route, returned to Oregon to find a job, because I was low on money.
1978-02-08Yosemite ValleyMidterm
5.10bAllan Macintosh
1978-02-25~
Start selling Freinds
1978-03Begin 1978 Spring climbing season. From journal: "SUN! The California kid (cartoon of smiling sun), lots of 5.12 climbing, hang gliding, pull-ups, bouldering and yoga."
1978-03-10Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cChris Ballinger
1978-03-10Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
5.11dChris BallingerLunatic Fringe & Short Circuit same day.
1978-03-12Yosemite ValleyAttempt Trix
Chris Ballingerrain
1978-03-13Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dChris Ballinger, Dale Bard
1978-03-13Yosemite ValleyCatchy Corner
5.11aChris Ballinger, Dale BardCatchy & Catchy Coo same day. (Dale had done the first ascent, and referred to the route as "Catchy Coo."
1978-03-14Yosemite ValleyTrix
5.11aChris Ballinger1st ascent.
1978-03-15Yosemite Valley1st & 2nd pitches Dinner Ledge
5.10Chris Ballinger, Carl Mattson
1978-03-15Yosemite ValleyJo-Jo
5.10cChris Ballinger, Carl Mattson(twice) 1st & 2nd pitches Dinner Ledge, Jo-Jo (twice) same day.
1978-03-16Yosemite ValleyMy-Toe-Sis
5.11b *Chris Ballinger1st ascent. Named the route "Mytoesis" but I like the guidebook's name "My-Toe-Sis" better, so will default to that. Chris' name for the route was "Vulva Dentada" because the crack is pretty rough and tends to shred the hands.) Up and left of the Wedge on the Cascade Wall.
1978-03-17Yosemite Valley
Showed Friends to climbers for the first time. Don't have any for sale quite yet. Will sell them for $17.50, sizes 1-3.
1978-03-18Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
1978-03-19Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aCarl MattsonWet
1978-03-20Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.11cCarl Mattson
1978-03-20Yosemite ValleyButterballs
5.11cCarl Mattson
1978-03-23Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aCarl Mattson
1978-03-24Yosemite Valleyfall off boulder and injure back
Bedridden for two days.
1978-03-27Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
1978-04-05Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Dean Pascall
1978-04-08Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Vern Clevenger
1978-04-27Yosemite ValleyWeted off Tales of Power
Vern Clevenger
1978-04-28Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Dean Pascall
1978-04-29Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Vern ClevengerDean P. & Tom Carter photographing
1978-05-05Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cDean Pascall
1978-05-05Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aDean Pascall
1978-05-08Yosemite ValleySacherer Cracker
5.10aMike & Dusty
1978-05-09Yosemite Valley
D. D.Took D. D. on a short easy climb, and finished with a rappel. Rap S.R. with Bill and Kim.
1978-05-10Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aRichard JackBill & Kim photographing
1978-05-11Yosemite ValleyCheck out Elephant's Eliminate
Richard Jack
1978-05-12Yosemite ValleyAttempt Elephant's Eliminate
1978-05-13Yosemite ValleyAttempt Elephant's Eliminate
1978-05-14Yosemite ValleyAttempt Elephant's Eliminate
Richard Jack
1978-05-16Yosemite ValleyAttempt Elephant's Eliminate
Mike Comb
1978-05-17Yosemite ValleyAttempt Elephant's Eliminate
Mike Comb
1978-05-20Yosemite ValleyElephant's Eliminate
5.12dJohn Lakey1st ascent. There's a good heal-toe rest at the lip if you like hanging up-side down. From a bomber hand jam near the lip, super lunge to thin finger jam.
1978-09Start of '78 Fall climbing Season
1978-09-20Yosemite ValleyRap Obscure Destiny
John LakeySeparate Reality area.
1978-09-21Yosemite ValleyUncertain Ending
5.10bJohn Lakey1st ascent. Crack L. of Obscure Destiny. Separate Reality area.
1978-09-22Yosemite ValleyCheck out Cosmic Ray
crack on Reed's Pinnacle
1978-09-23Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
1978-09-25Yosemite ValleyFilm on Rostrum
1978-09-30Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cMartin Wragg
1978-10-02Yosemite ValleyCrack L. of Pharo's Beard
Mark Vallance
1978-10-04Yosemite ValleyCatchy
2 x 5.10d(twice)
1978-10-04Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
5.11dCatchy (twice), Short Circuit same day.
1978-10-05Yosemite ValleySteck-Salathe
5.9Mark Vallance9 hours
1978-10-06Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Mark Vallance
1978-10-07Yosemite ValleyNew Dimensions
5.11aMark Vallance
1978-10-08Yosemite ValleyHotline 1st & 2nd pitches
5.12Sebilla Hethtel
1978-10-09Yosemite ValleyPink Dreams
5.10aMark VallanceBack then we called it "Pink Dreams" with an "s." Also we Checked out route called Fatal Mistake.
1978-10-11Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aMark Vallance
1978-10-12Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.10cMartin Wragg
1978-10-13Yosemite ValleyAttempt Separate Reality
Mark Vallance
1978-10-14Yosemite ValleyJo-Jo
Mark Vallance
1978-10-15Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aDave Altman
1978-10-16Yosemite ValleyMiddle Cathedral Rock - North Buttress
5.10aMark Vallance5 1/2 hours
1978-10-17Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cMark VallanceMark attempts to lead
1978-10-18Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Bill Price
1978-10-19Yosemite ValleySacherer Cracker
5.10aMark Vallance, Kerry Kilgore
1978-10-25Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aDave Altman
1978-10-26Yosemite ValleyCramming
5.10dKerry Kilgore
1978-10-27Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cDave Altman
1978-10-28Yosemite ValleyDancin' Days
5.11cDave Altman, Sheri
1978-10-28Yosemite ValleyPink Dreams
5.10aMark Vallance
1978-11-01Yosemite ValleyAttempt Dogs Woof
Dave Altman
1978-11-02Yosemite ValleyTales of Power
5.12bDave Altman
1978-11-02Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aDave AltmanTales of Power, Separate Reality, Crimson Cringe same day.
1978-11-02Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aDave AltmanTales of Power, Separate Reality, Crimson Cringe same day
1978-11-03Yosemite ValleyOrangutan Arch
5.11bDave Altman
1978-11-04Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cDave Altman
1978-11-06Yosemite ValleyNew Dimensions
5.11aDave Jones
1978-11-06Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
5.11dDave JonesNew Dimensions, Short Circuit same day
1978-11-07Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Bill Price
1978-11-09Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Bill Price, Dave Jones
1978-12-07Yosemite ValleyB&B
5.10aRick Cashner, Frank Brown III1st ascent. Last Resort Cliff.
1978-12-09Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dBob Williams
1978-12-09Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
3 x 5.11dBob Williams(3 times) Catchy & Short circuit (3 times) same day.
1978-12-11Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
2 x 5.10cWerner Brauntwice
1978-12-11Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
5.11dWerner BraunLunatic Fringe (x2), Short Circuit same day
1978-12-12Yosemite ValleyClean Cosmic Ray
Kim Smitzcrack on Reed's Pinnacle
1978-12-13Yosemite ValleyClean Cosmic Ray
Glen Polcrack on Reed's Pinnacle
1978-12-14Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10c + 2 TRGlen Pol, Bob Fin, VanessaBob and Vanissa and I went to do Lunatic Fringe, and discovered four other people already on it but struggling in vain. I led through, and everyone else followed. I TR'ed it twice again, and the last rap I clipped into my fixed rope for the descent and stepped off, only to discover that someone (Jason) had untied it. Whizz... I probably owe my life to the fact that I like to be belayed whenever possible.
1978-12-16Yosemite ValleyClean Cosmic Ray
crack on Reed's Pinnacle
1978-12-21Yosemite ValleyClean Cosmic Ray
Werner Brauncrack on Reed's Pinnacle
1978-12-21Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
5.11dWerner Braun
1978-12-21Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10c + 2 TRBob Fin, Vanessathree times
1978-12-24Boulder Mt. Woodson
Can't fly Torrey so drive to Woodson.
1979:
1979-02Spring '79 Yosemite climbing season. 100 pullups most days, and lots of bouldering.
1979-02-24Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bDave Yerian, Matt
1979-02-24Yosemite Valleyatt Short Circuit
Dave Yerian, Matt
1979-02-27Yosemite ValleyClean & attempt Cosmic Ray
Don R.new rt on Reed's Pinnacle
1979-02-27Yosemite ValleyShort Circuit
5.11dDon R.
1979-02-28Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.10cRick Cashner
1979-02-28Yosemite ValleyAttempt Butterballs
Rick Cashner
1979-02-28Yosemite ValleyGenerator Crack
5.10c TRRick CashnerWaverly Wafer, attempt Butterballs, Generator Crack same day.
1979-03-02Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dRick Cashner
1979-03-02Yosemite Valley2nd pitch L. of Anathema
Rick CashnerCatchy & 2nd pitch L. of Anathema same day.
1979-03-03Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Rick Cashner
1979-03-04Yosemite ValleyCosmic Ray
5.11aRick Cashner1st ascent. Reed's Pinnacle Area - Right.
1979-03-04Yosemite ValleyFive and Dime
5.10dRick CashnerCosmic Ray, Five and Dime same day.
1979-03-08Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.10cRick Cashner
1979-03-08Yosemite ValleyAttempt Butterballs
Rick Cashner
1979-03-09Yosemite ValleyEnglish Breakfast Crack
5.10cWerner Braun, Ron Kauk
1979-03-10Yosemite ValleyCheck out Rt. on Elephant Rock
Werner Braun
1979-03-11Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aRick Cashner, Frank Brown III
1979-03-11Yosemite ValleyShattered
5.10dRick Cashner, Frank Brown III1st ascent. on the Last Resort Cliff, Upper Tier. Frank had done the route earlier with Steve Baca, with one move of aid. I led up to the move on the sharp flake and belayed below it, making it 2 shorter pitches. Frank led the next part free.
1979-03-12Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.10cDon R.
1979-03-12Yosemite ValleyButterballs
5.11cDon R.
1979-03-13Yosemite ValleyAttempt hangdog
Vern Clevenger, Don R.
1979-03-14Yosemite ValleyAttempt Atomic Finger Crack
Rick Cashner, Don R., Vern Clevenger
1979-03-16Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Rick CashnerSNOW
1979-03-17Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aVern Clevenger, Rick Cashner
1979-03-20Yosemite ValleyAttempt Atomic Finger Crack
Rick Cashner, Don R.
1979-03-21Yosemite ValleyAttempt hangdog
Bill Critchlow
1979-03-24Yosemite ValleyAttempt Atomic Finger Crack.
Bill CritchlowFree to rest knob
1979-03-25Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aDave Reynolds
1979-03-26Yosemite ValleyAttempt Atomic Finger Crack
Rick Cashner
1979-03-30Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cPaul Olephant
1979-03-31Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aPaul Olephant
1979-04-01Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Paul Olephant
1979-04-02Yosemite ValleyAttempt Atomic Finger Crack
Rick Cashner
1979-04-04Yosemite ValleySport jumping Reeds 3-D
Chick Holtkamp, Eric Perlman, Dan
1979-04-05Yosemite ValleyAtomic Finger Crack w/yo-yoing
Rick Cashner
1979-04-07Yosemite ValleyCheck out Dale's World's hardest
Dale Bard
1979-04-08Yosemite ValleyAtomic finger Crack
5.12aRick Cashner1st free ascent. Eric Perlman filming. Last Resort - Upper Tier.
1979-04-09Yosemite ValleyReady or Not
5.11aRick Cashner1st ascent. On Last Resort - Upper Tier.
1979-04-09Yosemite ValleyNeutron Escape
5.10aRick Cashner1st ascent. Last Resort - Upper Tier (I didn't have this route in my log, nor in my memory. But somehow it's in the guidebooks, so am including it here.)
1979-04-09Yosemite ValleyRadioactive
5.11aRick Cashner1st ascent. Last Resort - Upper Tier. (I didn't have this route in my log, nor in my memory. But somehow it's in the guidebooks, so am including it here.)
1979-04-12Yosemite ValleyClean Duflickus, on Elephant Rock
Bill CritchlowFree last pitch.
1979-04-13Yosemite ValleyHelp clean the approch to Dale's "World's Hardest."
Dale BardDale found the route and called it "World's Hardest." He talked me into going on a cleaning mission with gloves and shrubbery clippers, in order to clear the approach of the poison oak which was growing thickly in that area. We were pulling it out by hand for hours, and boy did we ever get a case of the rashes! I never did touch the route, but took one look and said "you gotta be kidding." I remember Dale giving up that project just after that, I think I might convinced him that it wasn't worth it. Or maybe he didn't want to deal with that poison oak again. I never actually saw Dale take a hammer to that crack, or any others. But years later Bachar supposedly climbed it, and re-named it "Dale's pin job." And to me, that doesn't make sense. If Dale had pinned out the crack, he would have also climbed it. He was one of the top climbers at the time, nearly on par with Bachar. Instead, I think Bachar (or someone else) might have pinned out the crack, then gave it the deceptive name to cover for themselves.
1979-04-14Yosemite Valley4th pitch rostrum, 1st pitch Blind Faith
Dale Bard
1979-04-15Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
5.12aBill Critchlow
1979-04-16Yosemite ValleyClean and attempt Duflickus
Bill Critchlow
1979-04-18Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aRick CashnerWithout belay at knob.
1979-04-20Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Dave Altman
1979-04-21Yosemite ValleyDuflickus
5.11Bill Critchlow1st ascent. R. side Elephant Rock.
1979-04-22Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
3 x 5.12aSusie(3 times)
1979-04-26Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cVern Clevenger, Rick CashnerTo the ledge in the rain!! If you get to the ledge at the half-way point, you have the route bagged. The 2nd half is not much worth repeating if you have already done it before. (We were repeating these hard routes just for the work-out.)
1979-04-27Yosemite ValleyAttempt Phoenix
Vern Clevenger
1979-04-28Yosemite ValleySeparate Reality
4 x 5.12aSusie(4 times) Led it clean all four times, pulling the gear after each time.
1979-04-29Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cVern Clevenger(to the ledge) Susie bystanding.
1979-04-30Yosemite ValleyNew Rt. on L. side Elephant Rock
Susie1st ascent.
1979-05-03Yosemite ValleyRecon W. Face El Cap
Susie
1979-05-02Yosemite ValleyFilm Separate Reality
3 x 5.12aSusieFell off during my first try, then led 3 more times. Was with a TV film crew from San F. They also hired Dale and Ron, but I was the only one willing to chance the lead on film.
1979-05-05Yosemite ValleyW. Face El Cap, 1st pitch free
Susie"The first pitch will never go free." they said. Freed the first pitch today. Rain
1979-05-07Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cElaine Brook(to the ledge)
1979-05-08Yosemite ValleyAll American Hand Crack
Rick Cashner
1979-05-09Yosemite ValleyAttempt Dog's Woof
Susie100 p/u
1979-05-10Yosemite ValleyHangdog Flyer
5.12cBill CritchlowBill Wood Filming. 100 p/u A photo appeared in this book: http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/Magazines/1999-The-Best-of-Rock-and-Ice/index.htm
1979-05-11Yosemite ValleyFilming on Rostrum Roof
Bill CritchlowBill Wood Filming
1979-05-14Yosemite ValleyW. face, 1st & 2nd pitches
SusieFreed 2nd pitch, and it looks good above. Hot in the Valley!
1979-05-15Yosemite ValleyEnergy Crisis
5.11dRick Cashner
1979-05-17Yosemite ValleyW. face
Bill PriceBill and I freed the first seven pitches, and then pulled our gear and ropes.
1979-05-20Yosemite ValleyEl Capitan - West Face
VI 5.11cBill PriceWest Face El Cap, free. In one day (VI, 5.11) 21 pitches overall, 12 pitches of 5.11. 4th 1-day ascent of El Cap. First free ascent of a grade VI in the country. First free ascent of an El Cap big wall. My fifth El Cap climb. Bill Price and I got up at 3:00 and started climbing. We did the whole route, got to the top and ran all the way down the backside for two hours to get to the final 3 rappels just before it got pitch dark, and arrived back in the valley for a bivouac-less ascent.
1979-05-28Yosemite ValleyHike up Teneya with J. Bridwell
Jim Bridwell
1979-081979 Summer in the UK.
1979-08-16EnglandContreau
4a, 5.8SusieStoney Middleton
1979-08-16EnglandMinus Ten
4c, 5.7SusieStoney Middleton
1979-08-16EnglandSin
4c, 5.7SusieStoney Middleton
1979-08-18EnglandChecker's Crack
5a, 5.9Mark Vallance, Nick LonglandFroggatt
1979-08-18EnglandBroken Crack
4b, 5.8Mark Vallance, Nick LonglandFroggatt
1979-08-18EnglandTody's Wall
5a, 5.8Mark Vallance, Nick LonglandFroggatt
1979-08-18England3 Pebble Slab
5a, 5.8Mark Vallance, Nick LonglandUn-pro
1979-08-18EnglandAttempt Synopsis
Mark Vallance, Nick Longlandun-pro
1979-08-19EnglandDebotchery
5a,b 5.9Mark Vallance, Steve BeanMatlock
1979-08-19EnglandOrpheus (3 times)
5.10aBircher's Edge
1979-08-20EnglandWindover
5.9Stoney Middleton
1979-08-21EnglandDexterity
5b, 5.10aMillstone
1979-08-21EnglandSupra Dir
5a, 5.10aMillstone
1979-08-21EnglandEmbankment #3
5b, 5.9Millstone
1979-08-22EnglandJohn Peel
5.10bStoney
1979-08-23England
Tim Lewis, editor of Mountain, swings by the shop to take a picture of me for his magazine. He only took one picture, and I happened to blink! Photo appeared Mt.
1979-08-25EnglandGates of Mordor
5.9Stoney
1979-08-25EnglandDead Banana
5b, 5.10bStoney
1979-08-25EnglandPadme
5a, 5.8+Stoney
1979-08-26EnglandKayak
Curbar
1979-08-26EnglandAvalanche Wall
Curbar
1979-08-26EnglandScroach
5cCurbar
1979-08-26EnglandPredator
5cCurbar
1979-08-27EnglandRubber Neck
5bThe Roaches, 3rd cloud
1979-08-27EnglandCrabby's Crack
The Roaches, 3rd cloud
1979-08-27EnglandAttempt the Finger Eater
Hen Cloud
1979-08-28EnglandThe File
5a, 5.9Higgor Tor
1979-08-28EnglandThe Rasp
5c, 5.10cHiggor Tor
1979-08-29EnglandCarl's Work Crack
5b, 5.10a+Stoney
1979-08-29EnglandArmageddon
5a, 5.9Stoney
1979-09-01EnglandVector with Croacker finish
5c, 5.10cTremadog
1979-09-01EnglandLegslip
5a, 5.9Tremadog
1979-09-01EnglandMountain #69, Sep-Oct 79
Pg. 17, El Cap Done Free. Pg. 36, Who's Your Friend? by Alec Sharp. Pg. 42, A Friend In Need by Eric Perlman.
1979-09-04EnglandGreat West Road
5.b?, 5.10aMillstone
1979-09-04EnglandRoto
5c, 5.10c moveMillstone
1979-09-05EnglandGates of Mordor L. crack
5.10a or bMillstone
1979-09-05EnglandEmbankment II
5.10b,cMillstone
1979-09-05EnglandEmbankment IV
5.10aMillstone
1979-09-06EnglandBitterfingers
6a, 5.11aStoney
1979-09-08EnglandDangler
5c, 5.10cStannage
1979-09-08EnglandDeperation
5c, 5.10bStannage
1979-09-08EnglandThe Asp
6a, 5.11aStannage
1979-09-09EnglandThe Wedge
5.10cIlkley Quarry
1979-09-15EnglandPromontory Girdle (girdle above)
5.1Black Rocks
1979-09-16EnglandStapiombo
5.10aFroggatt
1979-09-18EnglandHanging Crack
5.10aDovestone
1979-09-22EnglandBoulevard
5cLawerencefield
1979-09-22EnglandAttempt Coventry St.
5.11Lawerencefield
1979-101979 Fall climbing season Yosemite
1979-10-13Yosemite ValleyAttempt All American Hand Crack
Rick Cashner
1979-10-14Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bElaine Brook
1979-10-15Yosemite ValleyCheck out Rt. L. of Phoenix
1979-10-16Yosemite ValleyBottom 1/2 Rostrum
5.11Elaine Brook
1979-10-17Yosemite ValleyNew Dimensions
5.11aElaine Brook
1979-10-20Yosemite ValleyEnglish Breakfast Crack
5.10cJoe Bryant
1979-10-21Yosemite ValleyLeaning Meanie & 1st pitch N.D
Elaine Brook
1979-10-22Yosemite ValleyNabisco Wall
5.11aElaine Brook
1979-10-23Yosemite ValleyCrimson Cringe
5.12aElaine Brook
1979-10-25Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Elaine Brook
1979-10-27Yosemite ValleyBev Tower
5.11Elaine Brook
1979-10-27Yosemite ValleyButterballs
5.11cElaine Brook
1979-10-27Yosemite ValleyButterfingers
5.11aElaine BrookBev Tower, Butterballs, Butterfingers same day.
1979-10-29Yosemite Valley1st 3 pitches Astroman
5.11Elaine Brook
1979-10-31Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Susie
1979-11-05Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dBill Critchlow
1979-11-05Yosemite ValleyAttempt Catchy Coo
Bill CritchlowCatchy, attempt Catchy Coo same day.
1979-11-06Yosemite ValleyJardine's Hand
5.11a *Susie1st ascent. Cookie Cliff. Pitch above Anathama Rt. Crack. The guidebooks call it "Jardine's Hand," but I didn't name it that, and don't know who did.
1979-11-09Yosemite ValleyAttempt crack above Anathama Left crack
Dave Altman
1979-11-12Yosemite ValleyRed Zinger
5.11dDave Altman1st ascent. L. of Meat Grinder.
1979-12-15Yosemite ValleyCheck out rt on Elephant R.
Bill Critchlow
1979-12-14Yosemite ValleyCramming
5.10dPeter Chesko, Ron Skelton, Don R.
1979-12-15Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bRon Skelton
1979-12-20Yosemite ValleyAttempt Hangdog
Ron Skelton
1979-12-26Yosemite Valley1st 3 pitches Crimson Cringe
5.12Rick Cashner
1979-12-27Yosemite ValleyWaverly Wafer
5.10cRick Cashner
1979-12-27Yosemite ValleyButterballs
5.11cRick CashnerWaverly Wafer, Butterballs same day.
1979-12-31Yosemite Valley
Duflickus falls off, making a horriffic rockslide!
1980:
1980 Yosemite
1980-01-02Yosemite ValleySport jumping on Butterballs
Susie
1980-01-04Yosemite ValleyOuter Limits p2
5.10cRon Skelton
1980-01-05Yosemite Valley1st pitch Hardd
Werner Braun
1980-01-22Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cSusie
1980-01-22Yosemite ValleyFriends Patent
1980-01-23Yosemite Valley1st pitch Salathe
Susie
1980-01-24Yosemite ValleyAttempt left crack 1st pitch Nose
Susie
1980-01-25Yosemite ValleyAttempt right crack 1st pitch Nose
SusieHot!
1980-01-30Yosemite ValleyCatchy
5.10dSusie
1980-02-01Yosemite Valley1st pitch Nose, Rt Cr.
Susie
1980-02-02Yosemite Valley2nd pitch Nose
Steve Smith
1980-02-03Yosemite Valleyatt 3rd pitch Nose
Steve Smith
1980-02-04Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
1980-02-05Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. 3rd pitch
Susie(W.O.N. - Working on freeing the Nose), Windy
1980-02-09Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. Att 4th pitch
Frank Brown III
1980-02-10Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. Att 4th pitch
Frank Brown III
1980-02-11Yosemite ValleySunnyside Jam
5.9Paul Cowan, Bill Wood
1980-02-12Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. 4th pitch to Sickle, but lots of falls.
1980-02-13Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. 4th pitch clean
Rap straight from Sickle.
1980-02-24Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Jeff Louie
1980-02-25Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Susie
1980-02-26Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Ron SkeltonJumar 1st pitch to get fixed rope
1980-02-27Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Ron Skelton5 ropes jumarred, 11 ropes fixed.
1980-02-29Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
David5 ropes jumarred, 13 ropes fixed.
1980-03-01Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Susie5 ropes jumarred, 14 ropes fixed.
1980-03-02Yosemite Valley1st pitch Gripper and 1st N.D. Twice
Joe & John Jenishon
1980-03-08Yosemite ValleySupplication
5.10cSusieHot!
1980-03-09Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Roy
1980-03-11Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
RoyFree 7th.
1980-03-13Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
John Borstelmann5 ropes jumarred, 17 ropes fixed.
1980-03-14Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
John BorstelmannFree into Stovelegs!! 6 ropes jumarred, 18 ropes fixed.
1980-03-17Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Ron Skelton7 ropes jumarred, 19 ropes fixed. Move ropes
1980-03-19Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
WIND.
1980-03-20Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Roy80' of Stovelegs, then WIND.
1980-03-24Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
John Borstelmann6 ropes jumarred, 21 ropes fixed.
1980-03-26Yosemite Valley1st 2 pitches Reeds 3-D
Cold!
1980-03-27Yosemite ValleyNose, to Dolt Tower
Frank Brown III9 ropes jumarred, 22 ropes fixed.
1980-03-28Yosemite ValleyWO.N.
Susie
1980-03-29Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. to El Cap Tower, almost.
Eric Perlman9 ropes jumarred, 24 ropes fixed. Investigate traverse. I had previously found it with Ron Skelton's telescope.
1980-04-02Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
9 ropes jumarred, 25 ropes fixed. Jug to Dolt solo w/ more ropes
1980-04-04Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Daniel BolsterTo King Swing and rap Grape Race.
1980-04-06Yosemite ValleyRescue (recovery) on Nose
Chopper to summit, lower crew to next-to last pitch, haul off dead climber (David Kays). Susie was friends to this guy's wife, very traumatic for everyone. (While working on freeing the Nose, I went to the base each morning, and during this period would find pieces of gear laying on the ground, that this guy had dropped. A couple of carabineers, pitons and a few slings - every day. The gear kept increasing so I told the rangers to be on the look out. Then one early morning I found his whole rack. I went strait back to rangers and said somethings terribly wrong. They brought a telescope, and one look and they called for a helicopter.)
1980-04-08Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
12 ropes jumarred, 27 ropes fixed. Place bolts on traverse & clean Grape Race.
1980-04-10Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
1980-04-13Yosemite ValleyNothing
1980-04-14Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Susie12 ropes jumarred, 28 ropes fixed. Susie was afraid to go above Dolt Tower, so she sat there waiting for me to come back down.
1980-04-16Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
12 ropes jumarred, 29 ropes fixed.
1980-04-18Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
12 ropes jumarred, 30 ropes fixed.
1980-04-18Yosemite ValleySacherer Cracker
5.10aSusie
1980-04-18Yosemite ValleyLittle John - Left
5.8SusieSacherer Cracker, L. Side Little John same day
1980-04-25Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
LarsFree trav w/ 1 hang. 12 ropes jumarred, 31 ropes fixed.
1980-04-26Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
LarsTrav all except 1st move. 12 ropes jumarred, 32 ropes fixed.
1980-04-27Yosemite Valley1st & 2nd Reeds 3-D
Susie
1980-04-28Yosemite ValleyJo Jo
Susie
1980-04-29Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Rick AndersonStormed off. 12 ropes jumarred, 33 ropes fixed.
1980-04-30Yosemite ValleyW.O.N
Susiesolo above Dolt Tower. 14 ropes jumarred, 34 ropes fixed.
1980-05-02Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Daniel BolsterFree traverse & next pitch. Almost free Grape Race crack. 11 ropes jumarred, 35 ropes fixed.
1980-05-04Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. Free Eagle crack
Daniel BolsterFree Grape Race up to Grey Bands. Wrote article about this day for Japanese mag. iwato 12 ropes jumarred, 36 ropes fixed.
1980-05-06Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. Free to Camp IV
Daniel BolsterFree to C IV. Switch lines to Dolt. 16 ropes jumarred, 37 ropes fixed.
1980-05-08Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. Free base of Great Roof pitch
Free to base of Gr Roof Pitch, and aid roof. 14 ropes jumarred, 38 ropes fixed.
1980-05-12Yosemite ValleyGripper
5.10bLambertoFunkiest weather!!
1980-05-16Yosemite Valley1st pitch Nose
Daniel Bolster, Rod
1980-05-17Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. Free pitch above G.R.
Daniel Bolster, RodFree pitch above G. Roof. Wet! Climb to V, clean pitch to V. 16 ropes jumarred, 39 ropes fixed.
1980-05-19Yosemite ValleyW.O.N. Jug to Dolt
Daniel Bolster
1980-05-21Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Clean pitch above V. 19 ropes jumarred, 41 ropes fixed.
1980-05-26Yosemite ValleyW.O.N.
Daniel BolsterPull all ropes down. 15 ropes jumarred, 42 ropes fixed. 352 ropes jugged total.
1980-111980 fall season
1980-11-14Woodson
1980-11-18Woodson
1980-11-20Woodson
1980-12-01Woodson
1980-12-03Woodson
1980-12-06Woodson
1980-12-08Woodson
1980-12-10Woodson
565
1980-12-11Woodson
1980-12-15Woodson
1980-12-18Woodson
1980-12-20Woodson
1980-12-22Woodson
1980-12-24Woodson
1980-12-26Woodson
1980-12-30Woodson
1981:
1981-01-02Woodson
5 hrs
1981-01-03Woodson
1981-01-05Woodson
1981-01-07Woodson
Daniel Bolster, Terrance
1981-01-09Woodson
Daniel Bolster, Terrance
1981-08-22Woodson
Joe Keoughan7 am, before day gets too hot
1981-08-29Woodson
Joe Keoughan
1981-09-06Woodson
Joe Keoughan
1981-09-26Woodson
Joe Keoughan
1982
1982-05-07WoodsonBouldering Woodson
Solo
1982-051982 England
1982-05-20EnglandLawerence Field
1982-05-22EnglandCarl's Walk
Mark VallanceStoney Middleton
1982-05-22EnglandBubbles
5cMark Vallance
1982-05-24EnglandCurber
Calver. Rained out
1982-05-26EnglandGreen Crack (mv)
Mark VallanceCurber
1982-05-26EnglandInsanity (mv)
5cMark VallanceCurber
1982-05-30EnglandTerrace Crack, 2 star (rj)
Froggatt
1982-05-30EnglandLatecomer (rj)
Yarncliffe Quarry
1982-05-30EnglandBow-Shaped Wall (rj)
Yarncliffe Quarry
1982-05-30EnglandZapple - 3 star (rj)
Yarncliffe Quarry
1982-06-02EnglandBond Street - 3 star (rj)
Millstone
1982-06-03EnglandEmbankment (rj)
Millstone
1982-06-03EnglandKnight's Bridge (mv)
Mark VallanceMillstone
1982-06-03EnglandGreat Portland Street (rj)
Millstone
1982-06-05EnglandGreat North Road (rj)
Mark VallanceMillstone
1982-06-05EnglandBrimstone (rj & mv)
Mark VallanceMillstone
1982-06-06England?
Millstone.
1982-06-13EnglandF Route (rj)
Gimmer Crag
1982-06-13EnglandKipling Groove (rj)
Gimmer Crag
1982-06-14EnglandSlip Knot (rj)
White Ghyll
1982-06-14EnglandWhite Ghyll Eliminate (rj)
White Ghyll
1982-06-14EnglandMoss Wall (rj)
White Ghyll
1982-061982 a few trips to Woodson while preparing for our round-the-world sailing voyage.
1982-06-28Woodson
1982-07-08WoodsonHear matrainacommin'
5.12Mark Vallance
1982-07-17WoodsonWoodson
1982-07-23Yosemite ValleyLunatic Fringe
5.10cJennyDriving to Oregon to register the boat, stop by Yosemite and take Jenny on a climb.
1982-07-31WoodsonWoodson
Jenny, Joe Keoughan, Laura
1982-10-22Woodsonbouldering
Joe Keoughan
1990's
Jenny and I did a bunch of new routes in Oregon.

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