The Ray-Way
Tarp Book

How to Camp With a Tarp
and how to make a Tarp, Net-Tent and Stowbags

Lightweight shelters for backpackers and hikers, cyclists, sea-kayakers, canoeists, scouts, and anyone else who enjoys camping

by Ray Jardine

Updates

Proper Measuring

A problem sometimes made during the construction of our tarp kit, is to lay out the material as it comes in the kit, measure the tarp panels, cut them out, and only then discover that the remaining material is too short for the beaks, by a few inches. The discrepancy is caused by not properly laying out the material flat when measuring. Woops!

This tarp can still be sewn together, and it will be just as serviceable despite the shorter beaks. This is because the stress runs through the tarp panels, rather than the beaks.

A better solution is to avoid the problem to begin with, by laying out the raw fabric as it comes from the kit, then measuring the tarp panels AND the beaks, before cutting anything.

Along the same lines, when starting our net-tent kit, lay our the netting as it comes from the kit, then measure and mark all the pieces before cutting any of them.

Sewing the flat-felled seam

The flat-felled seam comprises two rows of stitching, and these are easily sewn, even with lightweight fabric. However, if the sewing machine's thread tensions are out of adjustment, the seam can be a challenge. The material may seem too slippery or too stubborn. But the real problem is that the sewing machine's thread tensions, top and bottom, are not balanced. If one thread pulls tighter than the other, then this will distort the fabric and produce frustration and unattractive results.

Before sewing your actual project, adjust your machine for even top and bottom thread tensions, while practicing on a few silicone nylon scraps. Examine these practice pieces to ensure that the stitching looks identical on both sides. If not, adjust the machine. If you cannot achieve a balanced stitch, consider taking the machine to a sewing machine repair shop and ask them to try making the adjustments. Some machines, usually the cheaper ones, cannot be adjusted properly. You can force them to do the job, but the results may be less than satisfactory. For a professional finish with no frustration and very litle effort, make sure the thread tensions are balanced.

Width of flat-felled seam

Page 142, paragraph 4: The 1/2" measurement from the selvage edge is important because it will create a 1/2" wide flat-felled seam, which is the same width as the ridge pull loops, as explained on page 152.

Are the rip-stop lines square to the sides of the material?

Question: "On the tarp material, are the rip-stop lines perpendicular to the sides of the material? When I marked off 108 inches on both edges, one mark was off by few squares."

When rip-stop fabric is manufactured, the thin lines in the warp and fill are essentially perpendicular. But further processing usually distorts them. So the rip-stop lines are not to be used as guidelines. Jenny cuts the fabric at 90 degrees, or near enough. But depending on the persons sewing skills, the two panels can shift while sewing them together. So after you have sewn the ridge seam, you might find that one panel is slightly longer than the other. But even this is not a problem. Simply trim the excess.

Lifter patches

Pg 159, paragraph 3: If you would like to simplify the tarp's construction, you may cut the lifter patches square rather than round. Square patches are not quite as strong as round ones, but still they are plenty strong enough, and much easier to sew.

Whether the lifter patches are round or square, you must cut the slits parallel to the weft or weave, not at an angle. Cutting them at an angle, known as "on the bias," severs the threads running in both directions, and can result in a marked loss of strength.

Also, cut the slits very short - something like 1/8". They need be long enough only to accept the lifter lines.

We have developed a new method of attaching the lifter lines to the lifter patches without cutting slits. In testing this new method, we pull on the lifter lines until something breaks. The pull is typically in excess of 100 pounds - far more than the tarp would sustain in normal use - and yet the lifter patches are not damaged. Those wishing to try this new method may proceed as follows:

Cut a lifter patch to size. It could be round or square. Mark the patch with four small dots, as shown. Points "A" and "B" are about 1/2" apart. Thread a length of ray-way flatline into a sewing needle. Run the needle through the lifter patch at point "A" and using a pair of pliers pull it out the other side. Move over half an inch to point "B" and run the needle back through the patch. Move over to point "C" and run the needle through, then to point "D" and run it through.

Remove the needle from the flatline. Check that both free ends of the line are on the same side of the patch. Adjust the line so that both loops are about 1" in diameter, then tie the two ends together. Remember that if this knot fails, so does the lifter line. So make sure the knot is very secure. The result is a short, doubled loop of flatline attached to the patch, as shown at left. To this loop you will later tie your lifter line. But first, place the patch on the tarp with the knot against the tarp (hidden under the patch), and sew the patch to the tarp in the usual manner.

Seam allowances

Pg. 171: The headwall & footwall pieces have the 1" SA along their sides, while the roof/side pieces have the 3/4" SA along their ends. When joining these pieces, place the headwall or footwall on the table first, as they are the wider part of the flat-felled seam.

Pg. 161

Cut tarp ridge guys 12' in length.

Pg. 162

Cut 9 feet of line for the clothesline. Tension fairly snugly to prevent excessive sagging.

How to feed the micro-cordlocks

The micro-cordlocks we supply for the stow bags are very small. Here is how to feed the white cord through them:

Insert one end of the cord into the cord lock and pull it through. Melt the tip of the other end of the cord with the flame of a lighter, and quickly draw it through a rag to produce a sharp point. Insert this sharpened point into the cord lock and work it through, pulling the first end along with it. If this second end won't go, that means its point is not sharp enough. So re-melt and re-sharpen. If the point is sharp enough, it will go right through.

Tip for attaching net-tent to the tarp

Here is a tip for those who attach the net-tent to the tarp on a regular basis. Locate one loop of clothesline attachment webbing on the underside of the tarp. Normally the net-tent's ridge hook attaches to this webbing. Into the webbing insert a short length of cord, and using an overhand on a bite type knot, form a loop in this cord. When finished, this loop should be only large enough to fit around your thumb - more or less. Attach a similar loop to the tarp's other clothes-line loop, at the opposite end of the tarp. Because these cords are much thinner than the clothes-line attachment webbing, the net-tent ridge hooks will fasten to to them easier and more securely.