Nov 6, 2015
We packed up and gleefully departed. Last night we had very little water and only some bread and a few cookies for dinner, so we wanted to get to a store as soon as possible. We rode back to Mulege, but found no stores open yet. It was too early. So we continued north to Santa Rosalia and by that time the stores were open. We parked along the malecon and walked across the street into a store. They had a pot of hot coffee so we bought 2 cups, along with a large selection of snacks, two apples and a package of cheese. It turned out that the coffee was instant.
We made another stop at a taco stand in the city center, near the plaza, for a couple of (weird, it turns out) tacos. Thumbs down on those.
One last stop for gas and to lube our chains, and check the air pressure in the tires, then we headed out of town. Las Tres Virgines mountain is really amazing, really tall. Probably 5,000 feet. Just on the west side of the mountain pass we pulled off for a rest at a large pull out. Right here we saw what looked like a small creek with running water. We couldn't believe it - running water. Turns out the dry creek bed was full of oil, like a tanker had dumped here.
We reached San Ignacio, and loaded up on groceries at the large store on the highway, adjacent the turn off to San Ignacio. It was a pretty good store, lots of variety well-stocked, and quite a large produce section. Then we drove in to the Yurts and luxuriated. We had reserved the yurt named La Canadiense. It was a new yurt, very large, beautiful inside with comfortable furniture and 3 large beds, a big bathroom with a huge shower. The yurt had a screened skylight which we opened for more ventilation, and the door and all the windows had screens. The front screen door had a magnetic catch to keep it shut securely.
This yurt was very close to the lagoon. And in fact, this is almost the same spot where we stayed 3 years ago. However, this yurt was not here; back then there was a small cinder block cabin that we stayed in. But all that remains of that cabin is some of the foundation and a few colored tiles from the bathroom and shower.
We learned that 2 years ago Hurricane Odile caused a huge amount of damage to the resort, destroying almost all of the yurts and buildings. Then, a year later they had major flooding that really made a mess of all that remained. Amazingly, the owners, Terry and Gary, decided to rebuild.
We could see evidence of the hurricane and flood damage, huge chunks of concrete slabs tilted up at odd angle, tree debris around the perimeter, and large gashes in the perimeter stone wall. But the new yurts were ready for business and the main office and kitchen and dining area were fully operational.
We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. We washed some of our clothes by hand, then explored alongside the lagoon. One of the workers had dragged a large bundle of dates onto a blue plastic tarp, and we sampled some of the ripening dates. They were small, but sweet and flavorful.
We were the only guests that night, so I (Jenny) wandered over to the office to visit with Jennifer, who had just flown down from Fort Saint John in northern British Columbia, Canada. Jennifer was planning to stay the winter down here, working for Terry and Gary. Her main occupation is cook at gas and oil camps, so she is used to cooking for guests.