Day 1
  Day 2
  Day 3
  Day 4
  Day 5
  Day 6
  Day 7
  Day 8


Motorcycling Baja Peninsula

Motorcycling Adventure #17

9 days, 2,034 miles, Nov 2015

Ray & Jenny Jardine

 page 5 of 9

Day 5

Nov 5, 2015

Leaving Juan and Shari's place in Bahía Asunción. We highly recommended this place. Well worth the drive out to the coast. View in Google Earth

We were up at daybreak to make coffee and pack up. Shari had also been up early, she said she normally goes for her morning run about 6:00 before the sun is up. We had the bags and panniers loaded on the bike and Shari took some pictures. Meanwhile, her cat jumped up onto my (Jenny) bike and sat on her seat. What is it with cats on motorcycles?

We asked Shari about the signs about the Barredos we had seen driving west. She said that means Pronghorn antelope, but you hardly ever see them. She has been living here and driving that road for 18 years, and has only seen two antelope in all that time.

Shari wished us well, inviting us back of course, and then we were on our way.

As usual, the return trip east, back out to the highway seemed to go much faster. We gassed up in Vizcaino, then set off southbound on Highway 1. We enjoyed the riding, despite the narrow road with the abrupt edge and the crazy drivers.

We drove in to the plaza at San Ignacio Springs and pulled up at a taco stand for huevos rancheros. In retrospect, we should have left before we placed our orders. The lady cooking never smiled, and neither the kitchen nor the eating table looked too sanitary. As we sat there waiting for our food, we were regretting having stopped here. But the food was actually pretty good, boarding on excellent, and did not make us sick. We use our own forks, but the plates the food was served on were suspect. At least there were not too many flies. However, the wind had picked up, and every now and then a gust would sweep up the dust in the plaza streets and swirl it around us. We ate quickly, paid up, and got out of there.

Mission San Ignacio

We stopped by the office at the yurts to see about changing our reservation for a day earlier. Since we had taken a rest day the day previously, we had to change our itinerary, and would not be going south past Bahia Concepcion. Jennifer, the new help at the yurts, was very friendly. Terry and Gary, the owners, were leaving for a few days, sight-seeing with friends. And it was no problem to change our reservation date.

The drive east over the mountains to Santa Rosalia was curvy and hilly, and would have been fun except for the crazy drivers, the narrow road with sharp edges, and a strong, gusty wind. Once we dropped down toward the beach north of Santa Rosalia, we pulled off for a rest at the first beach. Then we drove on into the outskirts of town to the first Pemex gas station. This proved the best one in town. The service was prompt, it was not all jammed up with other cars and trucks, and it was easy to get in and out of.

We carried on west along the main business part of town to the Panaderia. This part of town was just jammed with traffic. We loaded up on fresh breads and cookies. Then we made a mistake, not stopping to buy drinking water. We were thinking we could get water in Mulege. We drove on south. We should have taken the turnoff to Punta Chivato for camping (note for next time).

Panaderia El Boleo. View in Google Earth

Santa Rosalía

We reached Mulege and spent a fair amount of time driving around and around the town, up and down the narrow, busy streets, down the wrong way on a one-way street, past the plaza, again and again. We were looking for the recommended hotels, but were not having any luck finding them. We finally found one; the sign was not at all obvious. In fact, the only door opened into a restaurant. Apparently, the hotel rooms were behind the restaurant and not accessible from the street. This would have been our choice, but when we asked about where we could park the motorcycles, the fellow said they had street parking only. No thanks. That was out.

We looked for a store to buy drinking water, but they already closed for the day.

We rode south a couple miles and pulled off at a hotel that was located down in a draw. It was another one recommended, but nobody was there. We returned to the highway and continued south.

Riding alongside the Bahía Concepción beach, we started seeing a number of pull offs for beach side camping, condos, and resorts. We turned onto one where the sign advertised "The Lighthouse." We rode about a quarter mile to the beach. The road was half dirt, half sand, although not very deep sand. We ended up near the playa de lighthouse on a little hook of a beach. To the south was the fake lighthouse and the closed down hotel, the empty RV parking area and a long series of empty palapas.

There was good camping close to the water on smooth rocks, but the wind was strong and we didn't want to leave the bikes out in the salt blast, so we rode north a short ways and found another pull off protected from the wind by trees and bushes.

Beautiful beach but too windy to camp here, owing to the salt blast on the motos.

At one of our camps. These tarantulas are big, but harmless if left alone.

There we found a large tarantula on a mission. It was moving right along. And the ground was littered with shell middens galore. Thousands upon thousands of clam and scallop shells, several feet deep in places. We were relaxing under the shade tree, watching for any more tarantula activity, noticing a few ants on patrol, and enjoying the sea, the sky and the ambiance, when a pickup truck full of soldiers pulled up. The driver turned the truck around, we waved, and every one of them smiled and waved back. And then they left. Is this area dangerous and needed to be patrolled? We didn't think so. Just making the rounds.

We spread our bedrolls and it would have been a pleasant night's sleep. I slept pretty well, but Ray was experiencing some biting insects. When you're half asleep you are not thinking too good. He later said he should have got up after the first bite and done something about it. We had not brought our shell garments - big mistake. Ray finally sat up and asked if I was getting bit. No. He turned the flashlight onto his ground sheet and discovered it was swarming with tiny ants. They were after the cookie crumbs. They were tiny ants and their bite was only mild. He shook off the ground sheet, laid back down, and the ants returned. I had no ants (and no crumbs) so after shaking out his quilt and jacket, he moved over and shared my ground sheet. Back to sleep.

Our camp on the shores of Bahía Concepción had tens of thousands of sea shells. These are Archaeological Shell Middens, evidence of early human habitation.

Camped on the shore of Bahía Concepción

During the night we saw about a dozen shooting stars, and awoke early, as usual.

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