Nov 3, 2015
We slept well and got up at the crack of dawn. A different fellow was out watering the plants around the motel. He told us there was coffee in the office, so we helped ourselves. The coffee was brewed not instant, and very nice.
The morning was a little cooler, with clouds. And very windy from the south. We had an enjoyable ride back west to the main highway. It seemed to go fast, and the early morning light was beautiful on the mountainsides. Ray, riding in front of me, saw a coyote in about the same area as yesterday.
Once out at the main highway, we stopped to lube our chains. The blue pickup with 2 large barrels of gas was parked on the west side of the highway, at the large pullout. But we didn't need gas at this point.
We made several stops as we drove south. The wind had stopped. Some cloud cover kept us cool. The traffic was constant, and frequent north-bound, but there was not much south-bound. This part of the highway has some fun twisties and hills. But the road is narrow and the edge dropped off, so we had to drive carefully.
We passed by a couple small towns with restaurants, where we saw trucks parked outside. Just past the military check-point at the north end of Guerrero Negro, we came to the whale skeleton, the turn-off leading to a large military post, it looked like, and the landmark marking the the 28th parallel north, and the border between Baja Norte and Baja Sur.
We drove on south a few more miles, then turned right at the main road into Guerrero Negro. The town sits west of the highway. On the outskirts there's a new motel, it looked quite nice. After a short ways, maybe a quarter mile, we stopped at the first good looking restaurant. It was called Marillmo, and it was a gringo hangout. Fortunately it was still early, so we were the only customers.
We parked the motos out front where we could see them, and selected a table on the front patio. The huevos rancheros was good, but we were pestered by flies while trying to eat. We basically ate as fast as we could while shooing away the flies from our plates and cups.
On the way out of town we stopped at the Pemex station for gas, then continued riding south. We made several stops for leg stretching.
The gps track is spot on; Ray is following his track. But the gps map is inaccurate; It doesn't show any towns, and the Hy is far off. Also we have a paper map (ITM) and that is also inaccurate. We were watching for our turnoff to Bahia Asuncion, as shown on the paper map. We discovered that the turnoff is actually right in the middle of a town called Vizcaino, but neither the paper map, nor the gps show a town there.
We left Hy 1 and turned west. The town extended quite a ways west. Everything is ramshackle. We passed large areas of agriculture. It looked like tomatoes and orchards of fig trees. The road west was straight as an arrow and the vegetation got drier and sparcer. Sand drifts covered half the road in a few areas. Caution signs read "Granulos" and "Cruces de Berredos." The sign depicted a leaping deer or antelope. Later we learned there are supposed to be Pronghorn antelope out here.
Motorcycling Baja is not for the faint of heart, but I would be glad to provide our tracks for anyone interested in actually riding our route.
It was 45 miles from the highway to the Bahia Asuncion Y-turnoff. The right-hand bend went to Turtle Bay; the left-hand turn goes to Asuncion Bay. We turned left, following the power lines. After another 25 miles, we arrived in town at about 2 pm. We then followed the paved road to its end, where it turned to dirt/sand just above the beach. We followed this beach road around to the west and then south to La Bufadora Inn. It was a beautiful and spectacular location.
The Dolphin room at Juan and Shari's place. We liked it so much we stayed for two nights.
We met Shari, who was super friendly. She showed us into our Dolphin Room. We had magnificent views on two sides looking out over the Pacific Ocean and the waves crashing into the rocks just below us. We liked it so much that we decided, on the spot, to spend an extra day here. We asked Shari if the room was available for the following night. She said yes, it was.
We unloaded the bikes, cleaned up, walked to Shari's swimming beach with her dogs Shami (skinny German Shephard) and Cafe (chunky chocolate lab). The dogs seemed to enjoy being our tour guides. Shari had invited us to join her for sushimi and grilled fish hors d'oeuvres. Shari's partner, Juan, is a fishing guide, and fish we were eating were fresh from the boat. The fishermen, Mark and Gary and Juan had filled a large cooler with the fish they had caught that day, mostly yellow-tail tuna.
We rode my (Jenny) moto into town for dinner at the recommended Loncheria Mari. While looking at the menus, the proprietor, Tomas, brought out a gigantic, frozen lobster. It was huge, about 18 inches long. I orderd lobster, but a smaller one, while Ray had fish tacos. For hors d'oeuvres we were served a plate of Pate de Caracol (conch) with crackers. Delicious! It looked a little bit like peanut butter but the taste was out of this world. We recognized the taste but couldn't quite place it. When we asked Tomas, he said "caracol" but we didn't know the world. So he showed us an empty conch shell he had on display on the window sill. Oh, caracol, yes, we recognized the taste of conch from when we spent six months at the Caribbean island of Bonaire, where the grocery sold conch cheaper than hamburger. The grilled lobster was delicious; the fish tacos were so-so.
At Bahía Asunción, this lobster was caught locally and kept in the freezer as a showpiece. I did have lobster, but a smaller one, while Ray had fish tacos.
We missed the sunset while we were eating dinner. After eating we stopped at at a small store and bought some snacks, a small bag of ground coffee, and a can of condensed milk.