Global Voyage

A Story About Sailing Around the World

Ray & Jenny aboard the ketch Suka

3 years, 35,000 miles, Nov 1982 - Jan 1986

Ray & Jenny Jardine

Chapter 3: Tahiti And The Societies page 44 of 109


Zoom out to see where we are.

Several days later, with Reva blowing itself out a thousand miles to the south-west, Joe, Jenny, and I left the residents of Papeete to repair their ravaged city, and motored the 15 miles to Tahiti's little sister isle: Moorea.

The Island of Moorea, Cook's Bay

“Joe watched over my shoulder with the analysis that a mechanic's job seemed about as complicated "as brain surgery.”

As we approached one of the openings in Moorea's fringing reef, the entrance to Cook's Bay, Perkins gasped and died. A light breeze wafted directly on-shore, and the brig suddenly found herself dead in the water and drifting slowly toward the hostile, surf-trounced coral. Straightway we hoisted full sail, and began slowly gathering sea room. Then leaving Jenny at the helm I set to work in the engine compartment. Joe watched over my shoulder with the analysis that a mechanic's job seemed about as complicated "as brain surgery." In contrast, from my perspective the chunk of metal was not as abstruse: I found that the engine was fuel-starved. In twenty minutes of testing, I traced the problem to a small glob of silicone (from the inspection plate's seal) steadfastly lodged in the fuel tank's pick-up tube. I cleared this, bled the air from the lines, and re-started the engine. With Perkins once again droning away dutifully, we entered the pass and anchored in four fathoms close to the river's mouth.

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Outside Moorea's fringing reef.

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Cook's Bay, Moorea

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“The island featured all the right ingredients: few cars, spectacular scenery, interesting inland hiking, unblemished weather, friendly islanders, illustrious snorkeling, miles of beautiful sand beaches, and vivacious, bronze-skinned native girls who often frequented the beaches showing scant regard to the western notion of beach-apparel propriety.”

Moorea soon became our favorite haunt. Except for the blatantly high prices, the island featured all the right ingredients: few cars, quietude, spectacular scenery, interesting inland hiking, unblemished weather, friendly islanders, illustrious snorkeling, miles of beautiful sand beaches, and vivacious, bronze-skinned native girls who often frequented the beaches showing scant regard to the western notion of beach-apparel propriety.

Joe returned to California, while Jenny and I remained in Cook's Bay another two weeks. Then Jenny's parents traveled to the island, taking a bungalow at a hotel near our anchorage.

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On the island of Moorea, with Tahiti in the background.

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Evening view from our boat, out in the anchorage.

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Jenny testing our new outboard motor, to see if it would plane.

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Jenny in the dinghy behind the boat, observing a pilot fish.

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A deepening low pressure cell began materializing south of the Marquesas. For four days it meandered in our direction, gaining strength, until maturing into French Polynesia's 1982 cyclone number eight: Veena. It steamrolled over the northern Tuamotus, which had hosted seven such unwanted guests this year, and in the process it obliterated what little had remained of civilization there. Then it steered for Tahiti.

The story has 109 pages. This is page 44.
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Page Links
GV 001: Title Page
GV 002: TOC
GV 003: Dedication
GV 004: Preface
GV 005: Prologue
GV 006: Beginnings
GV 007: Work Done
GV 008: Making Ready
GV 009: Departure
GV 010: Sailing Credentials
GV 011: First Lesson
GV 012: Sextant Navigation
GV 013: Safety Harness
GV 014: Murphy's law
GV 015: Spirit of Adventure
GV 016: Holding On
GV 017: First Big Storm
GV 018: Storm Intensified
GV 019: Rolling Violently
GV 020: Mizzen Sleeping Bag'sl
GV 021: Freeing the Propeller
GV 022: Visits by Birds
GV 023: Crossing the Doldrums
GV 024: Nearing First Landfall
GV 025: Land Ho
GV 026: Fatu Hiva
GV 027: Trek Inland
GV 028: Anchor Watch
GV 029: Passage
GV 030: Hiva Oa
GV 031: Skin Diving Circus
GV 032: Almost Like a Jungle
GV 033: Polaris Missile
GV 034: Taiohaie Bay
GV 035: Cascade Hakaui
GV 036: Taipi Bay
GV 037: Cyclone Lisa
GV 038: Cyclone Nano
GV 039: Passage of Patience
GV 040: Tuamotu Archipelago
GV 041: Tahiti
GV 042: Cyclone Reva
GV 043: Secret Sharer
> GV 044: Moorea
GV 045: Cyclone Veena
GV 046: Aftermath
GV 047: Good Weather in Papeete
GV 048: Huahine
GV 049: Raiatea
GV 050: BoraBora
GV 051: Rarotonga
GV 052: Tonga
GV 053: Fresh Air
GV 054: Tongan Feast
GV 055: Excursion to Maninita
GV 056: Mariner's Cave
GV 057: Fiji
GV 058: Ndravuni Island
GV 059: Mara Island
GV 060: Aneityum
GV 061: Noumea
GV 062: St Elmo's fire
GV 063: Breakwater Reef
GV 064: Bundaberg
GV 065: Life on the Burnett River
GV 066: Engine Sabotage
GV 067: Flying
GV 068: Aground in Round Hill Creek
GV 069: Gladstone Confinement
GV 070: Tropical Queensland
GV 071: Trip into Townsville
GV 072: Cairns Sojourn
GV 073: Cramped Cooktown
GV 074: Lizard Island
GV 075: The San Michelle
GV 076: Lost Mummy Cave
GV 077: Land's End
GV 078: Darwin
GV 079: Christmas Is
GV 080: Passage
GV 081: Cocos Keeling
GV 082: Crossing the Indian Ocean
GV 083: Rodriguez
GV 084: Mauritius
GV 085: Reunion Cirque de Mafate
GV 086: Reunion Cirque de Salazie
GV 087: Passage to Africa
GV 088: Kruger National Park
GV 089: Richards Bay
GV 090: Durban
GV 091: Port Elizabeth
GV 092: Cape Town
GV 093: Storm Passage
GV 094: St Helena
GV 095: Passage to Brazil
GV 096: Fortaleza
GV 097: Passage to Caribbean
GV 098: Bonaire
GV 099: Passage to Panama
GV 100: Panama
GV 101: Panama Canal
GV 102: Medidor
GV 103: Costa Rica
GV 104: Passage to Acapulco
GV 105: Acapulco to Cabo
GV 106: Baja
GV 107: Home Port
GV 108: In Retrospect
GV 109: Next Time
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