Global Voyage

A Story About Sailing Around the World

Ray & Jenny aboard the ketch Suka

3 years, 35,000 miles, Nov 1982 - Jan 1986

Ray & Jenny Jardine

Chapter 2: Marquesas Magnifique page 34 of 109

Although we had survived the sharks, we were being persistently bitten not only by the nanus but also by the wanderlust bug. So after lingering two days at Vaieo Bay we decided to move on. Weighing the anchor by hand in such deep water proved to be a challenge. We used a two-part tackle, reeving a line through a block that was snap-shackled (carabinered) to the chain. This we hauled in unison, hand-over-hand.

Ua Pu Island, Aneo Bay

Our next stop was a bay called Aneo, an indentation on the north coast of Ua Pu. Here the view was dominated by the nearby monolithic rock spires. As with our other short passages we had landed a nice bonito, and that evening we grilled it on the stanchion barbecue.

Venturing ashore, we found wild horses, wild goats, and wild nanus that paid scant notice to our copiously applied insect repellent. After a long walk over the hills we reached the beach, and began following it back toward the dinghy. The shore here was flanked by towering rocky buttes, and we eventually reached an impasse where a large sea cave blocked further progress. At that point our options were three: to swim around the impasse - suicidal, considering that the surf was thrashing the piercing coral; to find a ravine in the cliffs and climb out - irrefutably perilous and foolhardy; and lastly, to turn around and retrace our steps - all of them.

“One slip of hand or foot could have resulted in what climbers refer to as "the standard death fall.”

The ascent began propitiously. We clambered up a steepening, rock-strewn gully, and when it became nearly vertical we found ourselves rock climbing. The rock was dangerously loose, but for sport I picked a route that traversed diagonally onto a nearby buttress. With Jenny following close at my heels, at last we gained a final, vertical headwall: only eight feet in height but rotten to the core. One slip of hand or foot could have resulted in what climbers refer to as "the standard death fall." Looking down past our feet we could see the beach some 350 feet below. I gained the summit, turned and reached down, and with the last of my adrenaline pulled Jenny to safety.

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Approaching Nuku Hiva

Nuku Hiva Island, Taiohaie Bay


Zoom out to see where we are.

The following morning we weighed and set sail for Nuku Hiva, the principal island of the group. The wind was light and heading us, so we motored most of the way.

During our wanderings about these magnificent islands we had seen no other cruising sailboats, save for Nibuk at Atuona Bay. Now we were headed for Taiohaie (tah-ee-yo-high'-ee) Bay, reputedly the best anchorage in the group. There, we expected to find yachts by the droves. During one of Eric and Susan Hiscock's visits, at this time of year, they reported nearly fifty vessels lying at Taiohaie Bay. Cruising had become far more popular since their days, so we expected to find perhaps hundreds of yachts.

We found four. Not four hundred; only four. They were Kalakala from Seattle, Summer Seas from Hawaii, A'Strayin, obviously from Australia, and one that did not count because it had been there many years, Frank and Rose Courser's Courser. We passed among the foursome, waving to our curious neighbors, until someone yelled at us to stop. I pulled the power lever back, threw the transmission into reverse and put the coals hard to it. We narrowly avoided grounding against a submerged coral reef. We were learning that danger lurks not only far at sea.

photo

Nuku Hiva from Taiohaie Bay

After anchoring and pulling ashore we ambled into the little town and presented ourselves at the Gendarmerie for the routine paperwork. Then at Maurice's little shop we bought a flat of brown eggs, a frozen chicken, a few freshly baked baguettes (long, delectable crusty loaves of French bread), and a couple of cold bottles of soda water - emphasis to infer that the day was sweltering and that Suka lacked refrigeration.

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Taiohaie Bay

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The story has 109 pages. This is page 34.
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Page Links
GV 001: Title Page
GV 002: TOC
GV 003: Dedication
GV 004: Preface
GV 005: Prologue
GV 006: Beginnings
GV 007: Work Done
GV 008: Making Ready
GV 009: Departure
GV 010: Sailing Credentials
GV 011: First Lesson
GV 012: Sextant Navigation
GV 013: Safety Harness
GV 014: Murphy's law
GV 015: Spirit of Adventure
GV 016: Holding On
GV 017: First Big Storm
GV 018: Storm Intensified
GV 019: Rolling Violently
GV 020: Mizzen Sleeping Bag'sl
GV 021: Freeing the Propeller
GV 022: Visits by Birds
GV 023: Crossing the Doldrums
GV 024: Nearing First Landfall
GV 025: Land Ho
GV 026: Fatu Hiva
GV 027: Trek Inland
GV 028: Anchor Watch
GV 029: Passage
GV 030: Hiva Oa
GV 031: Skin Diving Circus
GV 032: Almost Like a Jungle
GV 033: Polaris Missile
> GV 034: Taiohaie Bay
GV 035: Cascade Hakaui
GV 036: Taipi Bay
GV 037: Cyclone Lisa
GV 038: Cyclone Nano
GV 039: Passage of Patience
GV 040: Tuamotu Archipelago
GV 041: Tahiti
GV 042: Cyclone Reva
GV 043: Secret Sharer
GV 044: Moorea
GV 045: Cyclone Veena
GV 046: Aftermath
GV 047: Good Weather in Papeete
GV 048: Huahine
GV 049: Raiatea
GV 050: BoraBora
GV 051: Rarotonga
GV 052: Tonga
GV 053: Fresh Air
GV 054: Tongan Feast
GV 055: Excursion to Maninita
GV 056: Mariner's Cave
GV 057: Fiji
GV 058: Ndravuni Island
GV 059: Mara Island
GV 060: Aneityum
GV 061: Noumea
GV 062: St Elmo's fire
GV 063: Breakwater Reef
GV 064: Bundaberg
GV 065: Life on the Burnett River
GV 066: Engine Sabotage
GV 067: Flying
GV 068: Aground in Round Hill Creek
GV 069: Gladstone Confinement
GV 070: Tropical Queensland
GV 071: Trip into Townsville
GV 072: Cairns Sojourn
GV 073: Cramped Cooktown
GV 074: Lizard Island
GV 075: The San Michelle
GV 076: Lost Mummy Cave
GV 077: Land's End
GV 078: Darwin
GV 079: Christmas Is
GV 080: Passage
GV 081: Cocos Keeling
GV 082: Crossing the Indian Ocean
GV 083: Rodriguez
GV 084: Mauritius
GV 085: Reunion Cirque de Mafate
GV 086: Reunion Cirque de Salazie
GV 087: Passage to Africa
GV 088: Kruger National Park
GV 089: Richards Bay
GV 090: Durban
GV 091: Port Elizabeth
GV 092: Cape Town
GV 093: Storm Passage
GV 094: St Helena
GV 095: Passage to Brazil
GV 096: Fortaleza
GV 097: Passage to Caribbean
GV 098: Bonaire
GV 099: Passage to Panama
GV 100: Panama
GV 101: Panama Canal
GV 102: Medidor
GV 103: Costa Rica
GV 104: Passage to Acapulco
GV 105: Acapulco to Cabo
GV 106: Baja
GV 107: Home Port
GV 108: In Retrospect
GV 109: Next Time
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