Global Voyage

A Story About Sailing Around the World

Ray & Jenny aboard the ketch Suka

3 years, 35,000 miles, Nov 1982 - Jan 1986

Ray & Jenny Jardine

Chapter 2: Marquesas Magnifique page 30 of 109

Atuona island, Hiva Oa Bay


Zoom out to see where we are.

Reaching the island at 7 a.m, we rounded a bold headland and entered the bay at Atuona. Three other sailboats lay placidly at anchor. Approaching them, we found that the water shallowed to a disturbingly inadequate 2 fathoms. However, a chap aboard one of the sailboats called over that the anchorage was OK, so we motored gingerly in, found a suitable place, lowered the CQR, and backed it securely into the mud. Then we pitched the big sun-awning, for although the day was young, the tropical sun was already blaring down with fiery intensity.

From the deck of his ketch Nibuk, our neighbor dove headlong into the water, swam over, climbed aboard Suka, and introduced himself. George, French Canadian, had departed San Diego the day before we had. With his girlfriend Louise and one other crewman, he had journeyed practically in our company. This was a surprise to us both. Yes, they had endured the same terrible storm as we, but they had run bare-poled before it for several days, making for the shelter of Hawaii. Until they heard on the radio that Hawaii was in the throws of a hurricane. "Hurricane?" I asked incredulously.

The other two sailboats here, he explained, belonged to Frenchmen who had arrived years ago and never left. Nibuk and Suka were the only visitors.

photo

Suka lying at Atuona island, Hiva Oa Bay.

Jenny and I paddled the dinghy ashore and walked into town to clear-in with the local Gendarmerie. The two officials spoke no English - whether they knew how was anyone's guess. Still, they treated us with friendliness. This came as a relief in light of the fact that Jenny and I had illegally called-in at Fatu Hiva before checking-in here. I freely admitted having done so, on the theory that surely they knew - by way of the grapevine. Fortunately for us, the officer dismissed the issue.

Like all foreign yachts people, we were required to post a surety bond of nearly $1,500: the equivalent of two one-way airline tickets back to the US. This interest-free bond would be refunded prior to our leaving French Polynesia.

Formalities completed, we asked where we might purchase a few limes. The genial deputy invited us to pick what we liked from the trees in his back yard.

“By my definition, the automobile windshield is what the motorist looks through with evident disdain at the pedestrian.”

The village of Atuona boasted only a few roads bearing a surprising number of cars - dozens perhaps. So the insidious leaven of progress had already invaded even the more primitive Marquesan culture. The automobile, it seemed to us, having come from Fatu Hiva where there were none quite yet, was perhaps responsible for the less friendly attitudes among the local people. Hiva Oans, driving at full tilt the short distances to wherever they were going, would pass us by in a flurry of dust, neither waving nor nodding. By my definition, the automobile windshield is what the motorist looks through with evident disdain at the pedestrian.

We telephoned our respective parents, who had heard nothing of us for more than a month. Alarming news of bad storms that had pasted Southern California had them deeply concerned for our safety. So of course they were relieved to learn we had arrived at French Polynesia.

The story has 109 pages. This is page 30.
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Page Links
GV 001: Title Page
GV 002: TOC
GV 003: Dedication
GV 004: Preface
GV 005: Prologue
GV 006: Beginnings
GV 007: Work Done
GV 008: Making Ready
GV 009: Departure
GV 010: Sailing Credentials
GV 011: First Lesson
GV 012: Sextant Navigation
GV 013: Safety Harness
GV 014: Murphy's law
GV 015: Spirit of Adventure
GV 016: Holding On
GV 017: First Big Storm
GV 018: Storm Intensified
GV 019: Rolling Violently
GV 020: Mizzen Sleeping Bag'sl
GV 021: Freeing the Propeller
GV 022: Visits by Birds
GV 023: Crossing the Doldrums
GV 024: Nearing First Landfall
GV 025: Land Ho
GV 026: Fatu Hiva
GV 027: Trek Inland
GV 028: Anchor Watch
GV 029: Passage
> GV 030: Hiva Oa
GV 031: Skin Diving Circus
GV 032: Almost Like a Jungle
GV 033: Polaris Missile
GV 034: Taiohaie Bay
GV 035: Cascade Hakaui
GV 036: Taipi Bay
GV 037: Cyclone Lisa
GV 038: Cyclone Nano
GV 039: Passage of Patience
GV 040: Tuamotu Archipelago
GV 041: Tahiti
GV 042: Cyclone Reva
GV 043: Secret Sharer
GV 044: Moorea
GV 045: Cyclone Veena
GV 046: Aftermath
GV 047: Good Weather in Papeete
GV 048: Huahine
GV 049: Raiatea
GV 050: BoraBora
GV 051: Rarotonga
GV 052: Tonga
GV 053: Fresh Air
GV 054: Tongan Feast
GV 055: Excursion to Maninita
GV 056: Mariner's Cave
GV 057: Fiji
GV 058: Ndravuni Island
GV 059: Mara Island
GV 060: Aneityum
GV 061: Noumea
GV 062: St Elmo's fire
GV 063: Breakwater Reef
GV 064: Bundaberg
GV 065: Life on the Burnett River
GV 066: Engine Sabotage
GV 067: Flying
GV 068: Aground in Round Hill Creek
GV 069: Gladstone Confinement
GV 070: Tropical Queensland
GV 071: Trip into Townsville
GV 072: Cairns Sojourn
GV 073: Cramped Cooktown
GV 074: Lizard Island
GV 075: The San Michelle
GV 076: Lost Mummy Cave
GV 077: Land's End
GV 078: Darwin
GV 079: Christmas Is
GV 080: Passage
GV 081: Cocos Keeling
GV 082: Crossing the Indian Ocean
GV 083: Rodriguez
GV 084: Mauritius
GV 085: Reunion Cirque de Mafate
GV 086: Reunion Cirque de Salazie
GV 087: Passage to Africa
GV 088: Kruger National Park
GV 089: Richards Bay
GV 090: Durban
GV 091: Port Elizabeth
GV 092: Cape Town
GV 093: Storm Passage
GV 094: St Helena
GV 095: Passage to Brazil
GV 096: Fortaleza
GV 097: Passage to Caribbean
GV 098: Bonaire
GV 099: Passage to Panama
GV 100: Panama
GV 101: Panama Canal
GV 102: Medidor
GV 103: Costa Rica
GV 104: Passage to Acapulco
GV 105: Acapulco to Cabo
GV 106: Baja
GV 107: Home Port
GV 108: In Retrospect
GV 109: Next Time
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