Global Voyage

A Story About Sailing Around the World

Ray & Jenny aboard the ketch Suka

3 years, 35,000 miles, Nov 1982 - Jan 1986

Ray & Jenny Jardine

Chapter 2: Marquesas Magnifique page 27 of 109


A Trek Inland

After a long nap we broke out the inflatable dinghy, still in its box. And using a foot pump we inflated it for the first time. Soon the crew was paddling blithely through the swells, venturing ashore with the intent of sampling the sensorial delights of this famously enigmatic island.

One last surfing ride landed us knee-deep in fresh water, we had landed in the mouth of a small river. We waded upstream then carried the dinghy up the bank. And as a precaution we tied its painter (bow rope) to a tree, among a number of Native outriggers.


Here among the palms spread a village of perhaps two hundred Polynesians and at least triple that number of undersized, short-haired dogs, rather uncomely and obviously long interbred. "Overgrown rats," as Melville had described them. But if the mutts were uncomely they were also extremely well mannered, for not one of them so much as barked at us.

“After 29 days at sea, our legs had almost forgotten how to walk.”

One of our first discoveries was that after 29 days at sea, our legs had almost forgotten how to walk. So now on wobbly legs we floundered along a narrow dirt road lined on both sides with small wooden houses. The afternoon had nearly spent itself, and some of the locals were out enjoying the cooler shade. Some sat quietly in small groups, some played a game of tossing steel balls, and some, like ourselves, strolled the boulevard. These natives see few visitors, so I expected they would gawk at us. Rather, they smiled and greeted us graciously, if perfunctorily.


We followed the gravel roadway, and this soon dwindled into a well-trod pathway leading out of the village and more steeply into the higher valley beyond. Eager for exercise and a taste of the island, we pressed on. Frangipani, hibiscus, and other exotic flowers bedecked the hillsides in profusion. The smells were ambrosial, to us they seemed almost intoxicating. Coconut trees, no doubt a local mainstay, grew in abundance. Breadfruit trees were common also, as were banana, grapefruit, mango, papaya, and a host of lesser fruit trees unfamiliar to us.

We passed by isolated shacks around which robust chickens scratched the dirt, and continuing farther we came upon a woman bathing her two children in the stream.

Legs were beginning to falter, but more disconcerting was our almost drunken, sea-legged lack of equilibrium. We had adapted so well to the topsy-turvy shipboard life that solid ground seemed to reel wildly. If there is a malady called landsickness, we both had it.

In any event, the day was waning so after a most refreshing swim in the fresh-water creek we headed back. On the last of our legs and the last of the daylight we arrived at the tender. Somehow we made it through the oncoming surf without capsizing, then paddled to our awaiting ship, only to fall into a heap in our bunks. Never was a night better slept.

The story has 109 pages. This is page 27.
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Page Links
GV 001: Title Page
GV 002: TOC
GV 003: Dedication
GV 004: Preface
GV 005: Prologue
GV 006: Beginnings
GV 007: Work Done
GV 008: Making Ready
GV 009: Departure
GV 010: Sailing Credentials
GV 011: First Lesson
GV 012: Sextant Navigation
GV 013: Safety Harness
GV 014: Murphy's law
GV 015: Spirit of Adventure
GV 016: Holding On
GV 017: First Big Storm
GV 018: Storm Intensified
GV 019: Rolling Violently
GV 020: Mizzen Sleeping Bag'sl
GV 021: Freeing the Propeller
GV 022: Visits by Birds
GV 023: Crossing the Doldrums
GV 024: Nearing First Landfall
GV 025: Land Ho
GV 026: Fatu Hiva
> GV 027: Trek Inland
GV 028: Anchor Watch
GV 029: Passage
GV 030: Hiva Oa
GV 031: Skin Diving Circus
GV 032: Almost Like a Jungle
GV 033: Polaris Missile
GV 034: Taiohaie Bay
GV 035: Cascade Hakaui
GV 036: Taipi Bay
GV 037: Cyclone Lisa
GV 038: Cyclone Nano
GV 039: Passage of Patience
GV 040: Tuamotu Archipelago
GV 041: Tahiti
GV 042: Cyclone Reva
GV 043: Secret Sharer
GV 044: Moorea
GV 045: Cyclone Veena
GV 046: Aftermath
GV 047: Good Weather in Papeete
GV 048: Huahine
GV 049: Raiatea
GV 050: BoraBora
GV 051: Rarotonga
GV 052: Tonga
GV 053: Fresh Air
GV 054: Tongan Feast
GV 055: Excursion to Maninita
GV 056: Mariner's Cave
GV 057: Fiji
GV 058: Ndravuni Island
GV 059: Mara Island
GV 060: Aneityum
GV 061: Noumea
GV 062: St Elmo's fire
GV 063: Breakwater Reef
GV 064: Bundaberg
GV 065: Life on the Burnett River
GV 066: Engine Sabotage
GV 067: Flying
GV 068: Aground in Round Hill Creek
GV 069: Gladstone Confinement
GV 070: Tropical Queensland
GV 071: Trip into Townsville
GV 072: Cairns Sojourn
GV 073: Cramped Cooktown
GV 074: Lizard Island
GV 075: The San Michelle
GV 076: Lost Mummy Cave
GV 077: Land's End
GV 078: Darwin
GV 079: Christmas Is
GV 080: Passage
GV 081: Cocos Keeling
GV 082: Crossing the Indian Ocean
GV 083: Rodriguez
GV 084: Mauritius
GV 085: Reunion Cirque de Mafate
GV 086: Reunion Cirque de Salazie
GV 087: Passage to Africa
GV 088: Kruger National Park
GV 089: Richards Bay
GV 090: Durban
GV 091: Port Elizabeth
GV 092: Cape Town
GV 093: Storm Passage
GV 094: St Helena
GV 095: Passage to Brazil
GV 096: Fortaleza
GV 097: Passage to Caribbean
GV 098: Bonaire
GV 099: Passage to Panama
GV 100: Panama
GV 101: Panama Canal
GV 102: Medidor
GV 103: Costa Rica
GV 104: Passage to Acapulco
GV 105: Acapulco to Cabo
GV 106: Baja
GV 107: Home Port
GV 108: In Retrospect
GV 109: Next Time
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